Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Cork Flooring Basics

Cork trees are a variety of the oak tree species. While most other wood or grass (bamboo) flooring materials are made by utilizing the stalk of the plant, cork is the outer layer of bark. Harvesting the bark of the cork tree is environmentally friendly, as it does not kill the plant. In fact, cork trees grow a fresh layer of harvestable bark every six years. The cork tree can continue to grow new bark for decades if not centuries. Very little of the harvested bark goes to waste.

No other material has the visual detail that is found in cork flooring. It is an excellent flooring material in both homes and offices. Cork has been used as a floor covering for many centuries because of its durability and appearance.

Durability and Resilience

Cork provides resilience and comfort. Unlike many of the ceramic flooring materials, standing on cork does not lead to sore and stained calf mussels. Many people believe that cork is soft, elastic, can be compressed, and hence should not be used if you want a long life floor. This not the correct and the proof is, that there are many century old European estates that still have their original cork floors. When cared for properly, as is necessary with any hardwood flooring, it is capable of providing decades of service.

An excellent flooring material for both kitchen and bathroom floors, cork is extremely resistant to any penetration by a liquid and it provides a non-slip surface (somewhat dependent on how it has been finished). Note: Cork should be sealed when installed as a kitchen or bathroom floor.

Health Benefits

Cork is naturally hypoallergenic and antistatic. Homeowners who are concerned about the allergenic effects of any building materials should consider cork as it resists the growth of mildew and mold and will not attract pollen or dust particles. Cork floors are easy to maintain and do not release fibers nor do they emit any toxins into the air making it an excellent flooring for individuals with respiratory ailments.

Insulating Properties

Cork has outstanding insulation characteristics. Its naturally low thermal conductivity provides a barrier to excessive heat or cold. It reduces energy costs in both heating and cooling. Its thermal properties make it an excellent flooring over above or below grade cement subfloors. Even without under floor heating a cork floor is warm to the touch. An excellent solution to cold, basement, family room floors.

For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Planning A DIY Roof Repair Project & Is It Advisable

If your roof is in need of repair, then you may be considering a DIY roof repair project. Depending on the nature of the problem and how complex the repair process will be, you may be able to complete some or all of the work yourself. Before you decide to move ahead with a DIY roof repair project, however, make sure that you have all the facts and are prepared for everything that the job entails.

One of the first considerations in a DIY roof repair project is whether or not you are afraid of heights. If you are, a DIY roof repair project may not be the kind for you. If heights are not a concern, then it?s time to consider your level of expertise when it comes to repairing a roof. Have you repaired a roof with this type of problem before? If not, are you confident that you can complete this project correctly? When it comes to your roof, you will want to make sure that you have all of the information needed to complete the job.

Once you have considered all of the safety and experience aspects needed to complete a DIY roof repair project, the next step is to decide whether or not to proceed or to hire a contractor. If you plan to do the work yourself, you can find all of the supplies needed at a local home improvement store. Before beginning any project, including that which involves DIY roof repair, you will need a sturdy ladder, work gloves, a tool belt, quality shoes that provide good treading for climbing a ladder, protective eye wear, etc. A contractor, on the other hand, will provide all of the materials themselves so that you do not have to worry about supplying anything but the funds.

As for whether or not it is advisable to undertake a DIY roof repair project, that answer can be found by assessing the damage. Minor repairs, such as shingle replacement or repair, small leaks, etc. can be handled by most homeowners. For more extensive damage, such as that involving hail storms, hurricanes, tornadoes or other similar misfortune may be best handled by a licensed contractor who has extensive experience in these types of roof repair projects. At a minimum, many individuals prefer to have a contractor available for supervision. If this is your preference, hire a supervisor to work with you from the beginning as it will be much more economical to have someone with you from start to finish. This option will be more affordable than waiting until the project is complete, hiring a supervisor to check out your work and learning that you need to go back and redo a large portion of the DIY roof repair project.

As Long Island Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Self Build Conservatory Facts

Adding a PVCu conservatory to your home is probably the most cost effective way of increasing your living space and also provides a room from which you can enjoy your garden all year round.

The number of people choosing a self build conservatory is growing substantially driven by consumer demands to get the best value for their hard earned cash. There are considerable savings available to those electing to go the DIY conservatory route rather than buying from a local or national conservatory installer which include:

  • COMMISSIONS - A retail salesperson will typically earn a minimum of 10% of the value of your conservatory, the surveyor will earn in the region of 5% and the fitters will probably be paid another 10%. That's a 25% saving to start with!
  • OVERHEADS - Showrooms, Offices, Advertising, Vehicles and Staff all need to be paid for and will be reflected in the price you pay. Many online suppliers do not have these expensive overheads allowing them to sell at trade prices direct to the public.
  • SUB-CONTRACTORS - Many installation companies sub-contract the conservatory base works to a local builder and will be adding their profit margin to whatever the builder charges them to construct your base.
  • FINANCE - Most installation companies will want to convince you to take their 'exceptional' finance deal. Just remember that both the installation company and probably the salesman will be earning extra commission on your finance as well. If you need to finance your new conservatory it will be cheaper to apply for a bank or personal loan.
So, it is quite clear there are substantial savings available to you by opting for a new DIY conservatory. However, you don't have to resort to doing the hard work yourself as there is another option.

BIY (Buy It Yourself)

Buy It Yourself allows you to select and buy a supply only conservatory yourself direct and then engage the services of a local builder to build the base and perhaps also install the conservatory for you. This offers you the best of both worlds as you are buying the conservatory yourself, ensuring you get the best deal available and project managing the installation without being involved in any of the manual work. The result is a substantial saving in cost together with the satisfaction of organising the conservatory installation yourself. The BIY route is becoming very popular as many of us are too busy or do not feel experienced enough to tackle home improvement tasks ourselves but do not want to ignore the savings available.

DIY or BIY?

Whichever route you decide to take you will be able to enjoy your new DIY conservatory safe in the knowledge that a little hard work and some delegation has saved you thousands compared to the installed price that your neighbours probably paid for their conservatory. What's more, because you have saved so much the additional living space added to your property will be reflected much faster in the value of your home.

This article written by Tony Wiggins who is a director of Trade Conservatories 2 U Ltd leading UK suppliers of self build conservatories. Visit Buy Conservatories Online for detailed information and resources on all aspects of DIY and self build conservatories. You may reproduce this article providing you display the above links.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

DIY Roofing Is It Advisable?

Whether it?s snow, rain, sleet or hail, our roof endures a lot of exposure and often takes a serious sting from mother nature. Regardless of what home improvements, decorating or repairs you have done or are in the process of doing, nothing matters if you do not have a solid and stable roof over your head. Before you take on a DIY roofing project, bare the following in mind:

You should only attempt a DIY roofing project if you have completed a similar project successfully in the past, have extensive knowledge or training in roofing or plan to hire a contractor to help supervise your progress. When it comes to your roof, you will want to make sure that it is done correctly in order to avoid leaks and other mishaps. Afterall, your roof is the only thing between your family and the sometimes harsh weather elements.

When it comes to a DIY roofing project, you will need to consider what type of roof you want to install. Do you prefer shingles or a metal roof? Many are selecting a metal roof if they live in areas that are prone to strong storms, hurricanes, etc. Shingles are the more attractive option, but are easily damaged and may require frequent repair and/or replacement. Always be sure to keep this in mind when starting out on a DIY roofing project.

When choosing your roofing material, take the time to consider the manufacturer?s warranty and recommendations. For instance, some roofing shingles are fire resistant and some carry a warranty of 40 or more years. In addition, more shingles are being made that are said to withstand high winds. The warranty and type of roofing that you choose will largely depend on the weather patterns in your area.

Some final points to consider before moving forward with a DIY roofing project is whether or not you are afraid of heights, the weather conditions surrounding the necessary repair or replacement and your budget. If at all possible, it?s best to complete roofing projects on a fair weather day. Working in the rain or other inclement weather could result in slippery conditions, either on the roof or a ladder. In addition, a contractor is obviously going to cost a little more financially, but hiring a professional could be the difference in spending a few more dollars now or a lot more later if the roofing project isn?t completed properly. So, is a DIY roofing project advisable? Only if you are absolutely certain that you can, in fact, do it yourself.

As Long Island Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Top Tips When Planning a Conservatory or Sunroom

General advice.

Negotiate fairly with suppliers. Don't expect to get all mod cons if you're only prepared to pay for the cheapest design.

Try to meet the builders who will be doing the work ? it?s crucial that you can get on with them.

Check whether you'll need planning permission ? don?t rely on the conservatory supplier to take care of that for you.

Be friendly and cooperative towards the constructors ? you?ll have more chance of getting the job done well.

If possible, view some installations done by your proposed supplier. Talk to their customers about how the builders went about their work, whether there were any major delays etc.

Always have a small contingency as there may be unexpected and unpleasant surprises once the construction starts, for which money will need to be available.

Buy the best conservatory you can afford. Gather as much information as possible on glazing options and construction materials so that you can make an informed purchasing decision.

Let your neighbours know about your plans so that they won't be offended by your conservatory ? either through jealousy or loss of light in their garden.

Inform your insurance company, as you will need to review your cover.

Design and decision tips

Use pegs and string to mark out the area of your proposed conservatory and then, ideally, fill it with the planned furnishings ? a dining table, a sofa and plants ? to check whether you have as much space as you would like. If moving the furniture is impractical, use sand or chalk to mark out the spaces they will take up.

Always calculate your internal floor size when ordering a conservatory and remember than most conservatory companies quote for the external area. Get at least three quotations but don't automatically choose the lowest. The cheapest supplier will rarely give you the best product or service.

Depending on the shape of the conservatory, it is generally inadvisable to put doors in the front of the conservatory, as it creates a corridor that makes fitting in furniture difficult.

Build your conservatory onto a well-used room, like your kitchen or living room.

Don't compromise on the size of your conservatory.

Choose a shape and style that will enhance the look of your home.

Try to match the construction materials and colour with those used for your home.

Take interesting details like bargeboards and unusually-shaped windows into the design of your conservatory.

Have a plan drawn up by an architect if you are looking for a specific and unusual design. This helps in discussions with the supplier and will also enable you to compare estimates on a like-for-like basis, which is important.

The more money you spend on efficient insulation and roofing and glazing systems, the less you'll end up spending on heating and cooling systems for your conservatory.

Remember to budget for extras such as blinds, furniture and heating.

Construction Tips

Attach 20mm PVCu trunking to the head of the PVCu frame between the roof and window sections. This gives the appearance of it being part of the window frame and provides great flexibility in adding extra lights, speaker wires, alarm detectors, etc.

Always lay your insulated central heating pipes in a gap created in the concrete flooring, never bury them in the concrete (should there be a leak it would be a disaster!).

DIY tips

Do your homework. Research which conservatory you want by having a look around on the Internet and at your local conservatory suppliers. Make lists of all the materials you will need plus their costs ? this will help you set your budget.

Be aware that manufacturers often quote 'inside cill' sizes. This is roughly equivalent to inside of the outside skin of bricks in a cavity wall, which is neither the indoor floor size, nor the outside wall size.

Buy where the trade buys. (Look for trade suppliers of screws, bolts, silicones etc)

Make the conservatory floor height the same as the floors in your home.

At the planning stage, add sufficient funding for extras such as skip hire, drainage pipes and paving.

Beware of building your dwarf wall too high ? you won't be able to enjoy the view of the garden!

Make sure you have the right tools for the job.

Get help from friends who have experience in skills like concreting or plumbing. And don?t be afraid to hire professional help when you really need it.

Don't skimp on the finishes you won't see, like cavity insulation and foundation. It will catch up with you in the long run.

Buy from a conservatory specialist rather than a DIY store. The former can give you invaluable advice on glazing and roofing options and you might need his help when things don't go to plan.

Maintenance tips

Use a silicone lubricant on squeaky hinges.

Using washing up liquid to clean the windows will degrade the sealant so DON'T DO IT!

Don't use abrasive cleaners on woodgrain PVCu conservatories.

Aluminium polish bought at motor shops can be used as a cleaner for silver aluminium conservatories.

Finally

Make sure there is someone to take care of the plants in your conservatory when you are on holiday! More than anywhere else in your home, plants in the conservatory need plenty of water.

Be careful when burning candles during the day. The heat can cause them to melt or bend so don?t leave them unattended.

Barry Dunlop is the Founder of ConservatoriesOnline.com - The online place for people interested in conservatories, sunrooms, garden rooms, and orangeries. Find more tips and advice at his website: http://www.conservatoriesonline.com

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Thanksgiving Craft: DIY Leaf Napkin Rings

These classy looking autumn inspired napkin rings will add the perfect touch to any Thanksgiving feast. As an added bonus they are very easy to make and cost next to nothing.

To see the image of the completed project, visit http://www.dotcomwomen.com/crafts/thanksgiving/leaf-napkin-rings.shtml

What You Will Need

1. Salt

2. Flour

3. Water

4. Rolling pin

5. Cutting board

6. Cookie sheet covered with aluminum foil

7. Golden yellow paint or some other autumn color.

8. Fine tipped paintbrush

9. Ribbon in a dark autumn color such as maroon.

10. Leaf button or small leaf stamp

11. Sharp kitchen knife

12. Fake autumn leaves (these can often be found in the craft section of most stores)

13. Hot glue gun

Directions:

1. First you will need to make the salt dough.

2. In a medium bowl mix: 1 Cup salt, 1 Cup flour and ? Cup water.

3. Knead the dough until it reaches a clay-like consistency. If it is too sticky add more flour. If it is too dry add more water.

4. Put a small amount of flour on the area where you will be rolling out the dough and spread it evenly so that the dough will not stick.

5. Roll out the dough with the rolling pin until it is about a ? of an inch thick.

6. Use the button or stamp to make an impression in the dough.

7. Use the knife to cut a rectangle or square around the impression.

8. Place the pieces on the cookie sheet. Make sure you place them on the sheet with the indent facing up.

9. When you have made as many as you need. Turn the oven to warm and put the pan in the oven.

10. The amount of time it will take to dry the pieces depends on the oven. So check them constantly. It will most likely take about 2-3 hours for them to dry completely. When they are done they will be hard, light and make a hollow sound when tapped on.

11. When they are done, paint the indent with your chosen color.

12. Allow the paint to dry.

13. Plug in the hot glue gun.

14. Cut the ribbon into four inch long pieces.

15. Choose leaves for the napkin rings and remove stems if necessary.

16. With the hot glue gun, put glue on the back of a salt dough piece and attach it to the front of a leaf, so that the piece is slightly slanted.

17. When the glue has dried turn the leaf over and put a small line of glue towards the base of the leaf.

18. Attach the ribbon so that it forms a ring.

19. Use as you would any other napkin ring.

Article ? Dot Com Women. For more Thanksgiving craft and decorating projects, visit http://www.dotcomwomen.com/crafts/thanksgiving.shtml

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Landscaping With Railway Ties!

Using wood railway ties that have been impregnated with creosote in your landscaping project may give you the appearance that you are looking for, but it is important to understand the problems that you may encounter.

Wood railway ties are manufactured by saturating raw lumber with a product generally referred to as creosote. Creosote is the generic name used for a variety of wood preservatives: wood creosote, coal tar creosote, coal tar, coal tar pitch, and coal tar pitch volatiles all fall under the general category of creosote. These products are created by mixing numerous chemicals that are created by the high-temperature treatment of beech and other woods, coal, or from the resin of the creosote bush.

Creosote does not dry, as with most tar like substances it remains in a semi-liquid state. Hence, if you touch a creosote impregnated railway tie, you will transfer some of the creosote to your hands and the hotter it is, the more the creosote will liquefy. If there are children who will be in contact with the railway ties their clothes and any exposed areas will be covered in creosote. Because creosote is a tar product, it does not wash out of clothing easily. Coupled with the problem associated with transfer is that creosote can and does produce a tar odor, which most individuals find distasteful.

Creosote will also leach into garden soil and ground water. Vegetables should not be grown in areas where creosote may have or may be contaminating the soil as vegetables grown in that soil will absorb the creosote chemicals.

Creosote impregnated lumber cannot be sealed, stained or painted.

Is creosote harmful? Diagnosticians have determined that irritation of the respiratory tract has been caused by breathing the vapors of any of the creosotes listed above. Skin damage, such as blistering and peeling, can be caused by long-term (year) exposure to creosote by contact with the skin or inhaling the vapors. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and the EPA have has determined that creosote is most likely a carcinogenic to humans.

You now have the information necessary to determine if wood railway ties are the best product for your next landscaping project.

For additional information on landacaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

DIY Home Improvement Tips

Are you interested in DIY home improvement tips? Maybe you are already actively improving your home all by yourself. Either way, there is always something to learn about home improvement, and advice or tips to gain for doing it yourself. DIY home improvement tips can come from all over; the key is to keep your eyes and ears open, and also know where to look or who to talk to.

If you have access to the Internet, and prefer to do or learn things from the comfort of your own home, then you probably want to hop online to research the subject of DIY-home improvement. Online you will be able to find numerous websites and site links that will aid and guide you in the art of home improvement. For just about every project you have in mind, inside of your home and outside, you will be able to find detailed DIY home improvement tips and ideas.

If you are a different type of learner who needs a person-to-person consultation, then that is easy to do as well. Simply visit businesses in your local area that specialize in things related to home improvement, like a hardware store, or a nursery if it?s outdoor work you are planning. At these types of businesses you?ll be able to find someone to talk with, like an employee that works in or with the specific department that relates to the project at hand. Most likely you are going to have to visit these types of businesses anyway to purchase the necessary supplies, tools, and materials to carry out your project. They will be able to consult with you, and answer any questions or concerns you may have.

Another suggestion would be to visit your local library or bookstore to check out or buy books or magazines specifically about or with some content concerning do-it-yourself home improvement. There are plenty of books and guides on the subject.

If you?re a hands-on learner, then do some research in your local area on instructional workshops and classes on DIY home improvement that you could attend. This is the best way to get some basic or more detailed DIY home improvement tips, as well as all the newest ideas that experts have been developing.

There is certainly no shortage of resources for helping anyone learn how to do their own home improving.

For more articles like this one, visit http://www.diyhomeimprovementtips.info

Sunday, March 15, 2009

A Stone Fire Pit Give Your Backyard Some Class Today

Fire pits are becoming more popular, and with good reason. They can be used to cook your family or guests a meal, keep you all warm on a chilly night, or just for the joy of watching flickering flames. But what about when it's not in use? A fire pit can be something of an eyesore during the day. That's where a stone fire pit can be a good option - it's practical, but at the same time it's attractive to look at any time of the day or night.

A stone fire pit can be designed in whatever way you like. You can choose to have an old style design, or you can use modern colors to make it blend in with your house. It can be small or large, incorporate cooking facilities, and give your garden an attractive focal point. So spend some time looking at where you plan to build your fire pit, and see what else is close by. Do you have a brick house? You will need to think about what type and color of stone will complement the bricks. Or perhaps your fire pit location leaves you free to choose whatever stone you like. Maybe you have a stone path that you would like to match. It's your decision.

Once you have a basic idea of what you want, you will need to find someone who has experience designing and building stone fire pits. This is important, because if it's poorly designed the air won't flow properly, which means your fire will struggle to burn well. Make sure the design incorporates some safety features, so that people who wish to approach the fire pit for warmth or to toast marshmallow can do so with ease.

If you're an experienced handyman, you will probably be able to take the fire pit designs and build the structure yourself. However it might still be wise to have an expert do the work, simply because fires can be tricky things to get right. Building the fire pit correctly will make a big difference to how well it works. Plus, you want your fire pit to be something that can be admired, rather than an eyesore. A well-built stone fire pit will be something that all your friends and family will admire.

If you want to read more about fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Friday, March 13, 2009

Mobile Homes... What to Look for

Mobile homes are usually mounted on grade-level wooden or concrete blocks, with the trailer wheels removed. They are typically skirted with vinyl or aluminum siding, or painted plywood sheathing. Mobile homes are sometimes installed on concrete block foundations, and it can be difficult to determine whether the foundations are mounted below the frost level, because the crawl spaces are normally back-filled to grade level. We've seen the odd mobile installed on a full-depth, finished basement. From an occupancy point point of view, there is essentially little to separate such installations from many other manufactured homes.

Mortgage lenders and insurance companies generally request storm tie-downs for mobiles homes in most areas, unless they are bolted to foundations at least 5 feet deep.

Experienced home inspectors ask the same fee for mobile home inspections as for traditional homes. Although mobiles tend to be smaller than the average house, they do take as much, and sometimes more time to inspect. The same is true for most cottages. We frequently hear It's only a small cottage, or It's only a mobile, why should it cost as much as a house?

We do a number of mobile home inspections every year, however they account for less than 2% of our total volume. The following are some of the points that we pay particular attention to, some of which are specific to cold-weather climates. There are certainly more items than listed here, to check for - but these are some of the more critical items that come to mind, which are specific to mobile homes.

1. Check crawl space venting, and look for evidence of mildew, rot, rust etc. under the unit - especially exposed, retrofitted plumbing, electrical and duct work.

2. Are the supply and waste piping adequately insulated, and/or heated for winter conditions?

3. Is there adequate combustion air for a standard gas or oil furnace? Most of the furnaces we observe are standard gas or oil, forced-air, down-flow style. The make-up (combustion) air source is usually from under the trailer, excepting newer installations of direct-vent furnaces.

Is there adequate ductwork? In some mobile mobile homehomes the original configuration provided for supply and return air only at the furnace closet door. Much of the retrofit ducting is flex-duct, and may be damaged or deteriorated under the unit. Everything under the unit is also susceptible to rodents.

* Speaking of rodents, don't be too quick to stick your head into dark spaces - you could meet any number of cats, rats, coons and other critters - they can be vicious when they're cornered!

4. In cold-weather regions, uninsulated oil tanks (outdoors) are subject to condensation and rust, especially at their bottoms.

5. Depending on the soils under the trailer, the unit may heave and shift under heavy frost conditions, unless the pilings are mounted below frost level.

6. Many units are insulated with Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI). This might, or might not be a consideration - depending upon history and attitudes in your local area. Polyurethane foam and other insulations are sometimes mistakenly identified as UFFI.

7. Mobiles are generally quite air-tight and (in cold-weather regions) retained moisture will cause excessive condensation on windows, especially metal-framed and/or single-pane units. Many mobile home in colder areas are re-fitted with wooden or vinyl, double-pane windows.

8. Older mobiles had 50 or 60 amp electric capacity, and newer models most often have 100 amps. However, depending on the mobile home park, they may be connected to a pole-mounted shut-off, of less than 100 amps.

9. In many mobile home parks, water and sewage are private or communal - not municipal. It is important to know how your sewage is managed, who is responsible and who pays for maintenance and repairs to private or communal systems.

10. Beware of owner-installed porches and additions. These demand diligent inspection. There is frequently wood-earth contact, and poor ventilation underneath - and frequently unorthodox framing methods. The porch roof-to-wall flashings are frequently substandard and problematic.

In our search for standards information...

* Building Code Officials inspect only 'built-on-site' structures.

* The mobile home sales and service outlets suggested we contact the manufacturers for standards information.

* One manufacturer directed us to CSA (equivalent to UL... they test everything from bread makers to woodstoves.)

* CSA directed us to the Building Code Officials for post-installation concerns... it appears that mobile homes, at this time in our local area, are in an administrative grey area.

More notes regarding the installation of mobile homes...

* In regions not considered high-wind zones, over-the-top tie-downs have not historically been used for single-wide manufactured homes.

* Piers or pilings comprised concrete and/or wooden blocks, placed on-grade at intervals beneath the trailer frame, have historically been accepted as the norm in most parts of Canada.

* Tie-downs consisting of spun steel cable, wrapped around the trailer frame and fastened to driven or screw anchors are typical in most locales, although not necessarily consistent among all manufactured homes.

* The mounting and tie-down methods typically employed may, or may not comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.

* Although mention is often made of manufacturer's installation manuals, these documents are rarely, if ever available.

* See also: CBD-188. Wind Forces on Mobile Homes by National Research Council Canada, 1977

Notes on Moving Mobile Homes...

* Under some circumstances (leased land, for example) a lender or insurer may want some assurance that a mobile home is still transportable.

* Older mobile homes may or may not be transportable, depending upon whether moving service personnel are able to mount axle assemblies, and whether the unit is roadworthy.

* The actual process of moving a mobile home as a vehicle is a point of interest which a home inspector cannot address or confirm, and involves considerations which only the selected mover could evaluate. It is however reasonable to believe that if axles could not be installed for any reason, or if the unit is found to be not roadworthy as a vehicle in its original configuration, it could possibly be moved by other means, much the same as any small house.

* We recommend that estimates be obtained from reputable mobile home or house movers regarding any costs, or possible impediments to moving a mobile home. Evaluation of this type of activity is outside the scope of a normal home inspection.

The Bottom Line:

Properly installed and maintained, mobile homes can provide very comfortable housing. They are relatively low-maintenance dwellings, and are considerably less expensive than traditional homes of similar floor area.

Improperly installed and poorly maintained, mobile homes can be uncomfortable, difficult to repair and often unsafe to live in.

Visit www.mobilehomerepair.com for more consumer info about manufactured homes.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Working Safely with Concrete

Concrete is easy to work with, versatile, durable, and economical. While observing a few basic precautions, it is also safe-one of the safest building materials known. Over the years, relatively few people involved in mixing, handling, and finishing concrete have experienced injury. Outlined below are some simple suggestions-protection, prevention and common sense precautions-useful to anyone working with Portland cement and concrete.

The jobsite should be adequately marked to warn the public of construction activities. Fences, barricades, and warning signs can be used to restrict public access. The work area should be kept clean and uncluttered to minimize hazards to workers. Remember: safety is the job of everyone onsite.

Protect Your Head and Eyes

Construction equipment and tools represent constant potential hazards to busy construction personnel. It is therefore recommended that some sort of head protection, such as a hard hat or safety hat, be worn when working any construction project, large or small.

Proper eye protection is essential when working with cement or concrete. Eyes are particularly vulnerable to blowing dust, splattering concrete, and other foreign objects. On some jobs it may be advisable to wear full-cover goggles or safety glasses with side shields. Remember that sight is precious. Protect the head and eyes by using proper safety equipment and remaining alert.

Protect Your Back

All materials used to make concrete - Portland cement, coarse aggregate, sand, and water-can be quite heavy even in small quantities. When lifting heavy materials, your back should be straight, legs bent, and the weight between your legs as close to the body as possible. Do not twist at the waist while lifting or carrying these items. Rather than straining your back with a heavy load, get help. Remember to use your head, not your back.

Let mechanical equipment work to your advantage by placing concrete as close as possible to its final position. After the concrete is deposited in the desired area by chute, pump, or wheelbarrow, it should be pushed-not lifted-into final position with a shovel. A short-handled, square-end shovel is an effective tool for spreading concrete, but special concrete rakes or come-alongs also can be used. Excessive horizontal movement of the concrete not only requires extra effort, but may also lead to segregation of the concrete ingredients.

Avoid actions that cause dust to become airborne. Local or general ventilation can control exposures below applicable exposure limits; respirators may be used in poorly ventilated areas, where exposure limits are exceeded, or when dust causes discomfort or irritation. Avoid prolonged exposure to dust.

Protect Your Skin

When working with fresh concrete, care should be taken to avoid skin irritation or chemical burns. Prolonged contact between fresh concrete and skin surfaces, eyes, and clothing may result in burns that are quite severe, including third-degree burns. If irritation persists consult a physician. For deep burns or large affected skin areas, seek medical attention immediately.

The A-B-Cs of fresh concrete's effect on skin are:

Abrasive Sand contained in fresh concrete is abrasive to bare skin. Basic & Portland cement is alkaline in nature, so wet Caustic concrete and other cement mixtures are strongly basic (pH of 12 to 13). Strong bases-like strong acids-are harmful, or caustic to skin. Drying Portland cement is hygroscopic-it absorbs water. In fact, Portland cement needs water to harden. It will draw water away from any material it contacts-including skin.

Clothing worn as protection from fresh concrete should not be allowed to become saturated with moisture from fresh concrete because saturated clothing can transmit alkaline or hygroscopic effects to the skin.

Waterproof gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and long pants should be worn. If you must stand in fresh concrete while it is being placed, screeded, or floated, wear rubber boots high enough to prevent concrete from getting into them.

The best way to avoid skin irritation is to wash frequently with pH neutral soap and clean water.

Placing and Finishing

Waterproof pads should be used between fresh concrete surfaces and knees, elbows, hands, etc., to protect the body during finishing operations. Eyes and skin that come in contact with fresh concrete should be flushed thoroughly with clean water. Clothing that becomes saturated from contact with fresh concrete should be rinsed out promptly with clear water to prevent continued contact with skin surfaces. For persistent or severe discomfort, consult a physician.

When working with fresh concrete, begin each day by wearing clean clothing and conclude the day with a bath or shower.

Information Source: Portland Cement Association

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Monday, March 9, 2009

Major Remodel Upgrade Your Electrical Service!

If you are contemplating a major remodel, the addition of a room or garage, or a new kitchen you should consider upgrading your electrical service.

Thirty years ago, the average new home was equipped with a 60 amp electrical service connected to a screw-in fuse panel with two fuse blocks. The common distribution was a fuse block for the stove and one for the hot water tank. The balance of the homes electrical needs were served by six, 15amp screw-in fuses.

Twenty years ago the average new home was equipped with a 100 amp electrical service and some of them used the latest in technology, circuit breakers.

Now the average home is equipped with a 200 amp electrical service with a distribution panel handling up to 40, 15amp circuit breakers serving the electrical needs of the home.

North American?s are electrical power hungry. Today our air conditioning systems take more power than an entire home did 30 years ago. A kitchen, in a new home, will usually be equipped with a number of receptacles capable of supplying more than 60 amps just to counter top appliances.

Adding receptacles does not increase the available power if they are looped from other receptacles. To get more power to a location the circuit should run directly from the distribution panel.

Old style distribution panels, those with screw-in fuses are generally considered fire hazards. The contact between the base of the fuse and the buss bar oxidizes or charcoals from poor contact. In order for the current to continue to flow heat is generated. In many areas, insurance companies will not renew homeowner insurance if the home is equipped with an electrical distribution panel that has screw-in fuses.

If your current electrical service to your home is less than 200 amps, and/or if it has a distribution panel that uses screw in fuses, you should consider replacing it as a top priority in any major renovation project.

For additional information on electical distribution for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Insulate Your Home With A Coat Of Paint!

What is the best material to use for heat and cold insulation in your home? The fact is that the material that the insulation is made from is not what provides the heat and cold barrier. It is the air that is trapped in the insulation that provides the thermal barrier that keeps you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Each type of insulation, whether it is a foam product, fiberglass batts or shredded paper provides different sizes and numbers of air pockets within them. That is why crushing insulation or pushing insulation into a crevice is counterproductive, it removes the air pockets, which is what provides the thermal barrier.

Now you can paint and insulate at the same time!

A relatively new product to enter the market provides air pockets within paint. The principle of the product is based on a complex blend of microscopic hollow ceramic spheres. Each ceramic sphere has a vacuum inside it, similar to mini thermos bottles. By mixing the ceramic spheres into paint it creates a product that provides enhanced insulation and saves you energy and money.

The paint, with its ceramic additive has proven to increase the ?R? insulation level of walls and ceilings. While use of the product on interior walls is extremely beneficial, its use on exterior walls is even more dramatically effective since it blocks the extreme heat of the sun.

The ceramic materials have unique energy savings properties that reflect heat while dissipating it. The hollow ceramic microspheres reflective quality affects the warming phenomenon called Mean Radiant Temperature, where heat waves from a source such as direct sunlight cause a person to feel warmer even though the actual air temperature is no different between a shady and sunny location. It is the molecular friction within the skin caused by the sun's radiant energy waves, which makes the mind think that the body is warmer. The ceramic microspheres in the paint refract, reflect, and dissipate heat.

The performance of the additive when mixed with light colored house paint can reduce exterior solar radiant heat gain into a home and interior heat loss from a home by over 20%. Summer heat gain through a building's exterior walls can be reduced by over 20%. Winter heat loss through interior walls can drop to the point where a once chilly room is now a pleasantly comfortable one - making your home more comfortable in the winter, and summer!

The product is available as a premixed paint or it can be purchased as an additive.

For additional information on using insulating paint follow this link: Insulating Paint.

For additional information on other home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Successful Renovation

1. Planning Renovations

Any project will be more successful, given well-defined goals. In every household project, the following three points can be applied:

FORM: What do you want it to look like?
FUNCTION: What do you want it to do for you?
COMPATIBILITY: What factors exist that might limit what you can do, and will the finished product look good on your house?

Once you've completed this part of your homework, it's time to decide if you'll built it yourself, hire a contractor, or be your own contractor and perhaps sub-contract some of the work. Sub-contracting may sometimes seem to over-complicate things and even look wasteful, but just remember - some jobs can look deceivingly simple until you actual get into the nitty-gritty of them. A general contractor's job is to co-ordinate and orchestrate the whole schmozzle to completion.

2. Finding A Contractor

My card...The process of finding a good contractor is essentially the same, whether you decide to hire a general contractor, or one or more sub-contractors. The best reference for a contractor is word of mouth from a satisfied client. If you don't know anyone who has had renovations or repairs done in the area you need, look for work trucks or signs in your neighborhood. Knock on doors, and ask the homeowners if they are satisfied with the work being done. Once you contact a contractor, ask for references, and follow through by calling their previous clients with a set of questions that will give you the information you are looking for.

The following are samples of questions that could be asked of any reference:

1. Did the job come in at the quoted price?
2. Did the job come in on time?
3. Was the work site left clean each day?
4. Was the quality of the workmanship satisfactory?
5. Was the quality of the materials used satisfactory?

It is always recommended that you talk to more than one company, so that you have a basis for comparison. Listen to their technical information, and note their customer relation skills. If the contractor doesn't do a very good job of communicating with you before you hire him or her, there may be a higher likelihood of miscommunications during the work.

Sometimes the best companies will be very busy and you will have to wait for their services. Other times, good companies may have time slots between large projects that smaller jobs can fit into. Ask what the company's schedule has been like for the past 6 months to a year. Reputable companies are usually busy all year round in any economic situation.

3. The Estimate, or Quote

Meeting the Contractors

Remember that the contractor you choose could be spending a lot of time in your home, so look for someone you feel at ease with. You should meet individually with each potential contractor. Be prepared to discuss products and designs; know what you want and how much you can spend. Take note if the contractors are on time, if they listen and answer questions, willingly give information about their company and their customers; and if they seem to have any aversion to your ideas.

The Estimate

This is where you'll likely make your choice of contractor. Each potential contractor will present a proposal, including design and cost information. Review the estimates, ensuring that they accurately relfect your wishes, and make comments and/or any changes that are required.

How Are Jobs Estimated?

Work that involves structural changes to the home, custom designs, or enlargement of some of the mechanical systems is typically quoted by the job. It can be very difficult for a contractor to know exactly how much time an intricate custom job will take, particulary if a number of trades are required, and the different parts of the job are interdependent.

Get it in writing!Simpler, straightforward jobs are often quoted by the square foot. Examples are laying sod, painting, roofing, drywall or refinishing floors. The quoted price will typically be set to include everything (ie. labour, materials, travel, etc.).

Smaller jobs may also be quoted buy the hour, and if the job is fairly routine, such as installing addtional electrical outlets or drywalling, the figures are typically in line. In this situation you will pay the tradesperson for time, plus the cost of the materials used in the project.

The Final Design and Quote

If you have a contractor with good references and the estimate looks good, you now need to get a firm quote, including final designs. The design should include detailed specifications for the work and the materials to be used.

(Another option is to have an architect or designer produce the plans and ask the contractors to bid on the job, based on these plans.)

Make sure the final specs are accurate and reflect your wishes, and make your final comments and changes. After you accept the final quote, the cost of further changes will likely be added to the job. Ask how long the stages of the work will take, so that you can monitor progress.

4. The Paperwork

Cash is King, however...

... take care, lest the cash deal of the century turn into the mistake of a lifetime! One reason for cash payment is the avoidance of paperwork and taxes. Taxes and other legalities aside, the absence of contracts and permits can be extremely risky.

Ooh, I love to save money!Cash contractors often don't pay Workers' Compensation fees, and you could be held legally responsible for any worker injured on your property. If the contractor gives you the product warranty cards, you'll be covered for defective materials provided they were properly installed, but don't expect good follow-up service on a cash deal. You would also have difficulty supporting any legal actions without any paperwork. The overall quality of a project may be compromised in the absence of paperwork, and cash paid in advance (rather than by cheque) will be all but impossible to retrieve if things go sour.

Building, plumbing and electrical codes may require that all or parts of your project be performed by licensed tradespeople, and sometimes licenses are required to obtain the permits. If the tradespeople aren't licensed, the contractor probably isn't insured. And if your contractor isn't insured, then depending on the nature of the job, neither is your house while he works on it.

The Contract

Agreements in writing are less vulnerable to miscommunications, than are verbal ones, and far easier to enforce. Some of the points included in a good contract are:

1. Full job description, including all aspects of the work; demolition, renovation, reconstruction and finishing.

2. Material specifications, including type, model, number, color, and size where applicable, and who's supplying what.

3. Start and finish dates.

4. Payment schedule; 40/40/20 is generally acceptable.

5. Permits, and who's responsible for obtaining them.

6. Clean-up and trash removal.

7. On site behaviour.

8. Change order clause: Have any changes to the original job specifications in writing with a requirement that you sign off any change before the work is performed.

9. Arbitration: Aree how disagreements will be handled before the work begins.

10. Contractor's insurer and policy number.

5. The Work MORE POWER!

Problem Avoidance: If you've carefully chosen your contractor, and made adequate preparations (including making the site ready for the trades people and workers), this part should be easy! The actual work should closely follow what was written into the contract, however you still need to monitor the ongoing project, and in some cases you'll be required to make additional decisions. There are often unforseen difficulties, or you may simply wish to ask for changes as the work proceeds.

Site Preparation: Remove furniture and stored articles from the work area, and cover carpets and other items that may not be moveable. It is in your own best interest to make arrangements for storage, clean-up and refuse areas convenient to the work area.

Project Coordination: Effective communication is the greatest secret to successfully completing any project. Maintain regular contact with your contractor(s) so that the unexpected can be dealt with expediently.

Hidden Conditions: A thorough inspection performed in conjuction with estimation should preclude any major changes, however there are structural and mechanical conditions initially hidden from view, which even the most experienced renovator may not be able to predict. Be prepared to negotiate changes for hidden conditions.

What to do if a problem develops:

1. Bring all problems, perceived and real, to the attention of your contractor(s).

2. Is it major or minor? If minor, and the contractor is present at the time, discuss it and negotiate a resolution. If it's minor, and/or looks like it can wait, start a list of minor observations that you can bring to his or her attention when appropriate.

3. Major problems should be dealt with immediately. If your contractor is not present at the time, make every effort to contact him or her as soon as possible. This may avert furtherance of the problem.

4. Given that your contractor responds satisfactorily, carry on. If not, try again and if necessary, write a letter. If you still don't get satisfaction, look to a third party such as the Ontario Renovators Council or the Ontario Home Builders Association. These agencies should be approached only if you are certain that a resolution cannot be achieved with the contractor. Legal counsel should be an absolute last resort. There's no use making a mountain out of a molehill, and thereby delaying succesful completion of the project.

THE BOTTOM LINE:
careful contractor selection + a good contract = successful job

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Landscape Wiring Keys to Success

If you have a need to provide power in your landscaping project for lighting and motors such as pond pumps, there are some things that you should consider.

Manufacturers have created low voltage lighting in order to increase their sales. The principle driving force is that wires running from the primary receptacle to the devices and from device to device, do not have to be trenched underground and placed in conduit. This means that the effort required by the homeowner to have outdoor lighting throughout their landscaping project has been reduced dramatically and hence the manufacturers are selling more products.

However, just because the wiring do not have to be placed underground does not mean they should not be. There are three major problems associated with placing wires on the surface of the ground.

-they can easily be damaged during plantings, cultivating and weeding

-they can be a safety hazard as they are easy to trip over

-they are unsightly and can ruin the aesthetics of a project

The installation of standard electrical receptacles within your project can be done in two manners:

-direct burial wire

-wires running in a conduit

Using direct burial wire has the inherent problem that people forget the exact routing of the wires and during your next project; you are bound to cut the wire with a spade or pitchfork.

Whether you are using low voltage devices or standard voltage devices, my recommendation is that all wiring should be run in PVC conduit that is buried at least 8? below ground level. PVC conduit is relatively inexpensive and provides the added benefit of being able to add a circuit without digging up your entire landscaping. Although this requires additional effort during installation, it will save you a lot of pain and agony in the future.

Proper planning in any landscaping project is the key to success!

For additional information on landscaping projects for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Hard Wood Floors: Beautifying Your Home

I can't stand carpets anymore. I know a nice shag pile can make a room look just great, and warm too. There also the added benefit of the feel of a good carpet beneath the feet. However, when we took our last carpet up, what I saw underneath disgusted me, and I vowed never to have carpet in the main living room ever again. Although the 4 year old carpet was vacuumed regularly and well maintained overall, I had no idea just what a filthy fabric carpet could actually be. There were stains all over the underlay revealing years of spilt drinks and pet pee. The dust and dirt that the vacuuming obviously hadn?t sucked up was very evident when we dragged it outside and threw it into the skip for dumping.

The hygiene issue was not a consideration when we decided to put hardwood floors in our downstairs rooms, but once we saw the old carpets being taken up, I was very happy with our decision to go for wood flooring.

When you think about it, floors have to take all the knocks of daily living, and therefore, floor types should be considered carefully when planning the d?cor and layout of a new room. Floors get walked over, have heavy items placed on them (sometimes dropped too), and drinks, food, and all manner of other substances spilt onto them, so you can see why it?s an area that needs consideration.

Wood flooring has become very popular of recent years and particularly hardwoods such as maple and oak. Hardwood floors can provide a very elegant touch to any home. Wood is classy, warm, and fresh, not to mention super hygienic compared to fabrics. If you like a little fabric you can still place a smart rug over your floors. Hardwood floors and a quality rug compliment each other beautifully.

We decided against putting hardwood floors in the kitchen due to all the spills and DIY that goes on in there, but many folks do opt for wood flooring in the cooking area and our friends say that the best choice is with a urethane finish.

The rooms we?ve gone for are the living room, the dining room, and a parquet finish in the hallway. You really do have to see it to believe it. The house almost has a feeling of nostalgia to it now and I just love opening the doors into any of these fine rooms and admiring the elegant transformation the hardwood has given to our home.

I fully recommended hardwood floors to anyone thinking about replacing their carpets. As soon as we?re financially able, we?re going to put a hardwood floor in the master bedroom too. The beauty of wood brings out the very best in any home.

Andy Maingam is a proficient writer and webmaster for FloorsForFolks dot com where he writes about Marble Floor Tiles and Epoxy Floor Coatings . He also has many other Floor related pieces on the site.