DIY Conservatories & The Home Owner

Did you know that as much as 20%-25% of the sales value of your conservatory can be paid out to salesmen in commissions and override and bonus payments?

Take a conservatory that you have been quoted ?8,500 installed - nearly ?2,000 of that is pure sales commissions and profit for the base building!

Why not consider a DIY conservatory and get your dream conservatory for at least ?2,000 less for exactly the same high quality product.

uPVC conservatories are growing in populatity - in particular the wonderful new Woodgrain finishes that are now available.

Mahogany, Rosewood and Oak are the most popular of the new colours and with glass roofs becoming more popular - these conservatories now look much like timber that costs nearly three times the price!

Options for colours include a white finish inside aswell - so you can match your decoration without a problem.

Why buy supply-only from a DIY conservatory supplier?

Simple - we will do all the work for you. We design and draw and produce FULL BUILDING and BASE details for you. These can be passed onto your own builder or why not use one of our registered installers? We send drawings and detailed specifications to you - so you can check us out against the salesmen that called last night and sat with you for 4 hours!

Stephen Ivison runs Ascot & Yorke - a DIY conservatory supplier based in North Yorkshire and covering the whole of the UK. For more information please visit the website at http://www.conservatoriesdirect2u.com.

Relax and Enjoy the Comforting Experience in Jacuzzi Bathtubs

As a lot of people may already know, bathing is one of the most important parts of a person's life. Not only does it keep you clean, it is also a great way to enjoy and release stress after a long day at work.

You may have experienced the pleasure of having a nice dip in your bathtub or in a swimming pool. However, if you want to have a more relaxing experience, you may want to consider taking a dip in a Jacuzzi. Most swimming pool resorts and spas have Jacuzzis that you can enjoy. However, it can be relatively inconvenient to travel across town to a spa to dip into a Jacuzzi, and paying a fee for using their facilities.

You may want your own Jacuzzi bathtub to maximize a relaxing experience at right in the comforts and privacy of your own home. Just imagine, you sipping your favorite drink while the water jets are massaging your body.

Jacuzzi is a form of hydrotherapy that will relax the muscles in your body. The warm water inside the Jacuzzi can relax spasms, alleviate sprains, backache, and fatigue. It is also a great stress reliever.

When deciding upon buying a Jacuzzi, try to consider a few things because there are hundreds of selections you can choose from. There are also different shapes, sizes and designs available for you.

As you may know, a large Jacuzzi that can accommodate at least two or more persons is much more convenient than a Jacuzzi that can only accommodate one. The more space there is, the more comfortable it is to use. A large Jacuzzi can also be enjoyed by you and your significant other. That can be a very romantic experience.

The jets inside the Jacuzzi should also be strategically placed so it can massage your back, legs and other muscle groups that need to be massaged.

As many people know, the environment should be considered as well if you want to maximize the experience of relaxing inside your Jacuzzi. Consider the lighting, lighting is more than just aesthetics, it should be dimmed and should make the Jacuzzi look inviting and relaxing.

Today, there are Jacuzzis that are integrated with state-of-the-art technology. Some Jacuzzis are even built with a plasma TV with a floating remote control for maximum convenience and enjoyment.

You should also know where you want to place your Jacuzzi inside your house. You can place it in your bathroom, have a room renovated or built as a personal spa, or you can place it outside. Wherever you place it, you should make sure that the ambiance or the environment should be relaxing. If it is not, it will defeat the whole point in buying a Jacuzzi, which is to relax.

With your own personal Jacuzzi, you can invite friends and family for a Jacuzzi holiday. They will truly appreciate it and it can be a one-of-a-kind experience. Of course, Jacuzzis can also be romantic. Just imagine taking a dip inside the Jacuzzi with your significant other.

Although not really necessary, owning a Jacuzzi can be one of the best investments you can ever have.

If you want to experience bathing in a new level, you can always buy your own personal Jacuzzi. Always remember that the Jacuzzi can provide relaxation for all kinds of people. Even children can enjoy bathing in it as they can play with the bubbles going out of the jet holes and with their favorite pool toy.

Claire Bowes is a successful freelance writer and owner of Jacuzzi Bathtubs where you will find further tips to spruce up your bathtub.

Tips on How to Build a Drywall Ceiling

One of the first things the do-it-yourselfer realizes when learning how to build a drywall ceiling is that no man is an island ? unless he uses rented equipment! Because the panels are big, bulky, and awkward, hanging drywall on a ceiling entails one or the other: the help of another person or renting a drywall jack from your local home improvement center. The cable mechanism on drywall jacks is not difficult to operate, and jacks do an excellent job of holding the drywall in a secure, flat position enabling you to more easily attach it to the ceiling.

Tools & Materials

How to build a drywall ceiling includes knowing what all tools and material you?ll need. In addition to either another person to help you or a drywall jack, you?ll also need a hammer, a drill with a screwdriver bit, and nails or screws for drywall. You?ll also, of course, need to measure your ceiling (twice!) and purchase enough drywall, including a little extra in case of mistakes, to do the job.

Mark Joists First

Find the boards ? usually 2x4s or 2x6s ? that function as ceiling joists by tapping along the wall studs with a hammer and following up the wall to the ceiling. As part of learning how to build a drywall ceiling, mark where these boards are located with a pencil. These are what you will be attaching the drywall to and marking them beforehand makes it much easier to find them than trying to find them as you are nailing or screwing on the drywall. You then need to measure where the light fixture goes on the drywall and cut out a hole to accommodate that area of the ceiling.

The Tough Part

Now?s the part in learning how to build a drywall ceiling where you?ll need the other person (who hopefully has plenty of stamina in addition to strength!) to hold the drywall up to the ceiling or to put the drywall panel on the jack. Position the end of the sheet of drywall ? with its finished side facing down ? at the center of the ceiling board (joist) to which you are going to nail it. Nail around the outside of the panel about a half an inch from the edges to prevent the drywall from splitting or cracking. The person who is holding the panel can now move or, if you?re using a jack, you can move it out of the way.

Make It Pretty

Countersink nails or screws at six- or seven-inch intervals all along the length of the joist to which the drywall has been attached. Countersinking allows you to cover up the heads of the nails/screws with compound so that when you paint, the heads won?t be at all visible. Although not really a part of knowing how to build a drywall ceiling, learning how to cover up ugly nail or screw heads serves its own purpose for overall general carpentry knowledge.

Learning how to build a drywall ceiling takes a lot more muscle than to attach the sheets to the walls, but it can be done with a little thought, at least one other person, and/or a jack. It really is pretty hard work, but, hey, after all ? you can do anything, right?

Having trouble with your drywall project? Discover the top ten drywalling tips at http://www.onlinetips.org

Saunas and Sauna Kits Choices for Bathers and Builders

If you?re interested in buying or building a sauna for your personal use, you first need to determine which style of sauna will best suit your needs and lifestyle. While certain similarities undoubtedly exist, it would be a big mistake to assume that all saunas are the same. Being able to differentiate between the many types of saunas, therefore, should be the initial goal of every first-time sauna buyer and would-be sauna builder.

The biggest difference between pre-cut saunas and modular or pre-built saunas is usually the effort it takes to assemble and install the sauna. Pre-cut saunas are essentially sauna material kits that contain the lumber and most of the parts required for building a sauna for permanent installation. These kits usually include: the wood for the sauna?s walls and ceiling; sauna benches; a standard sauna heater with controls and rocks; duckboard flooring; a standard sauna door and trim; a standard sauna light; hardware, and additional components. As virtually all of the construction of the sauna is the responsibility of the consumer, pre-cut sauna kits are often referred to as do-it-yourself or DIY sauna kits.

Modular or pre-built saunas lessen the consumer?s workload substantially. Entire sections of the sauna, such as the wall and ceiling panels and benches, come already built. The sauna door is pre-hung; the electrical wiring is already hidden inside the walls; the air vents are built-in, and no plumbing is required. A pre-built sauna can typically be assembled in just a few simple steps in about an hour, and, because it is a free-standing structure, it can be easily dismantled and moved to different locations.

For many years, most pre-cut and pre-built saunas on the market were of the traditional Finnish sauna variety. In a traditional Finnish sauna, specially selected rocks or stones are heated on a stove to elevate the temperature of the air inside the sauna room. Steam can be then added, raising the temperature even further, by throwing water onto the hot rocks. The intense heat causes the person or people inside the sauna to perspire profusely, and that is one of the key objectives of the traditional Finnish sauna bath, as sweating has long been believed to be a very cleansing, rejuvenating experience for the human body.

While the centuries-old tradition of the hot Finnish sauna bath continues to thrive throughout the world, modern technology has enabled a much newer type of sauna to successfully court public favor: the far infrared sauna. Sometimes called infrared heat therapy rooms, these revolutionary inventions utilize far infrared energy emitters to heat the sauna bather?s body directly and at lower, more tolerable temperatures than those offered by traditional Finnish saunas. Interestingly, even with the temperature difference, many sources claim that the volume of sweat produced during a far infrared sauna session can be as much as three times greater than in a traditional Finnish sauna.

Saunas and sauna kits for buying and building are fairly easy to find, thanks mostly to the modern conveniences of the Internet and worldwide web. As well, a plethora of online information exists on modular saunas, pre-cut sauna kits, Finnish saunas, and far infrared heat therapy rooms. As you continue your research, be sure to read up on the many health benefits regular sauna bathing offers as well as how to properly enjoy the experience to its fullest. Here?s to you finding better health and greater happiness inside the sauna you select.

Pertti Olavi Jalasjaa is the Finnish-born author of The Art of Sauna Building, an acclaimed reference book on sauna construction. He is also the general manager of Great Saunas, which has been manufacturing and selling high-quality saunas and sauna kits to sauna enthusiasts around the world since 1974. Visit Great Saunas online at http://www.greatsaunas.com.

Building A Moulding Bench For The Hobby Foundry

If you're going to spend a good part of your spare time working in your hobby foundry, then you'll need to have the best possible equipment & gear that you can afford. And there is no need to go out and spend a small fortune, if you are resourceful you can do a lot your self.

If you have the ability to fabricate & weld steel, then the best way is to self-build, you can custom design & build a moulding bench exactly the way you want it.

And if you don't know how to fabricate and weld then building a moulding bench will provide a learning experience in basic fabrication and arc welding skills. It's not hard; and it's a lot of fun, & quite rewarding when you can complete worthwhile projects your self.

In the 3-Vol-foundry ebook, we illustrate a moulding bench constructed from second-hand steel tube, 3/4 thick MDF board for bench top, it is mounted on casters for mobility around the shed. When not being used for making moulds it can be used for other purposes in the workshop. To protect the bench top, it is wise to clad the MDF with 16g sheet metal, preferably with a zinc or galvanised coating to prevent rust occurring, which will happen if you use green sand for moulding, because it holds quite a bit moisture, and will corrode plain sheet metal.

Moulding Bench Dimensions - What is the right size for you?

Most tables & benches are made to standard heights, these heights are determined from the average human being size... but what if you're not AVERAGE, you might be quite tall or very short, nothing is more uncomfortable than working at a bench that's not tuned to your height.

So think carefully when you construct your own moulding bench. You don't want to have to bend over the bench too far as this will give a back ache, make it too high, and you wont be able to carry out your moulding work properly. Measure the heights of various tables and benches around your house which are generally made to recommended table or bench heights, try these out in an imaginary way, and then adjust slightly up or down to suit your height and no one else, simply because you will be the one working on the bench.

A good way to see what bench height is best for you is to place your mould boxes on a normal table; imagine you are about to start work in your foundry. Make an assessment to see if the table is to high, or to low, or perhaps it's just right, make an informed decision and then build your new moulding bench to suit you.

You will be spending a lot of time ramming and making sand moulds, so make sure the bench height is the most comfortable possible. You should also think about storage areas underneath your moulding bench, design your bench to store your sand bins, moulding boxes, bottom boards, tins of parting powder, and other hand tools used in your hobby foundry.
Col Croucher.

Need content? You may use this article at your website, or in your newsletter. The only requirement is inclusion of the following sentence - Article by Col Croucher of http://www.myhomefoundry.com - the definitive source for hobby metal casters of all ages. While at the web site you can download your free ebook about hobby metal casting.

DoItYourself Infrared Sauna

Buying an infrared sauna cabin can be too expensive, especially if you?re not sure you?ll benefit from it. Infrared sauna blankets, bags or domes force you to lie on one place for half an hour and are not cheap too. However, another option exists - it is to do an infrared sauna yourself.

In this article I want to tell you about two ways to build a sauna completely with your own hands, without prefabricated kits. It can be a relatively cheap solution, so you can enjoy a sauna in your home environment for a reasonable price. You can build it to prove yourself that infrared will give some benefit to your health before buying an infrared sauna cabin, or it can be a convenient way to have a home sauna when you have not much free space at your home.

Before I go into explanations I want to warn you about safety. Building a sauna yourself may involve doing some electrical wiring. Infrared heaters used in a sauna usually have high power requirements - as much as 1000 Watt. Please, do not try to build sauna yourself if you don?t know what you?re doing. Better ask or hire someone who has experience with electricity to do it for you. If you?ll set up a sauna in a bathroom keep in mind that as a wet place it has strict requirements for electrical wiring safety.

Infrared sauna with two infrared heaters

First way to set up a home sauna is described by Jim Clements in his article The Bathroom for FIR Sauna, in which he explains how to use two infrared heaters placed in a relatively small room (5?11 feet suggested). He uses two 500 Watt 9 Amp infrared heaters from THMI, saying that these heaters give similar experience as in an infrared sauna cabin. He gives no specific information about this heaters aside from wattage and don?t know if any other brand of heaters will suit for this sauna set-up. I think it is important that heaters should not have too high wattage (not above 600 Watt).

These two heaters should be placed on the either sides of the room (5-6 feet apart). As they are 9 Amp you should either use 20 Amp outlet or use extension cord from some other outlet in your house to split current between two 15 Amp outlets. Make sure that extension cord can safely handle power requirements of an infrared heater.

At pre-heating stage Jim recommends to turn heaters to a door or to a wall for heating to occur faster. Don?t place heaters too close to the walls or other objects due to the risk of inflammation. The heating time is usually greater than with infrared sauna cabin and can be from 30 minutes to an hour. When the room is heated you can use it as a common infrared sauna, just go and sweat there. You may want to place a towel under the door and not to use ventilation as it will let air flow to lower temperature in a room. You don?t necessarily have to use a bathroom for a sauna; you can use any suitable place or make a special enclosure.

As an addition for two heaters Jim uses a 250 Watt infrared lamp hanged on the room ceiling (in his description he suggests to attach it to a shower curtain rod. He says he uses a light bulb from Sylvania but I think other manufacturers will be fine. Try to get a lamp with not focused but radiant infrared light.

Infrared sauna with infrared lamps

Another way to build an infrared sauna at your home is proposed by Dr. Lawrence Wilson. On his page about sauna therapy he describes how to use three 250 Watt infrared light bulbs to build an infrared sauna. You will need three 250 Watt infrared bulbs (not clear heat, as he writes that they have wrong spectrum). He recommends using Philips, General Electric or Sli lamps. Also you will need three ceramic or plastic lamp sockets for the bulbs, fifteen feet of heavy lamp cord, medium duty male wall plug and a switch, or better, timer-switch which is capable to handle seven amps current.

Socket should be mounted on a 46′? high by 15′? wide (or 12′? high by 24′? wide if you want to mount it on a wall) board made from wood, plywood or veneer. They should form a triangle with the middle socket on the top of it. The top socket should be at chest level when sitting. Sockets should be wired in parallel. Connect socket wire to a switch. After attaching sockets to the board with screws you need to make a cover form hardware cloth to prevent bulbs from touching anything.

Be very careful when using this sauna, always secure a board to a wall to ensure that it will not fall. Do not allow children to play with or use it without your supervision.

Dr. Wilson also describes how to build an enclosure for your sauna with a set of pipes. They form a frame which can be covered by blankets or other fabric to create a small room which can be used for sauna sessions.

Comparison of two methods

The first method described, by Jim Clements, is much easier to implement than the second, by Dr. Lawrence Wilson. And what is more important it uses prefabricated equipment so no additional wiring is needed so the risk of harm or malfunction is low. Heaters are covered so they cannot be touched by design and all wiring is made at factory. The minus is that infrared heaters cost more than infrared heat lamps.

From the other side, Dr. Wilson?s sauna, if made well and accurate is no worse that the first one, but costs significantly less. To build it one should know how to do electrical wiring or have someone who will do it for them. This sauna?s safety depends on a skill of the person who made it and can be dangerous if done improperly.

Once again, I want to warn anyone who wants to build a sauna that you must do it only if you are sure that you?re doing. You should be familiar with electrical wiring and should have skill and knowledge to do it right. Authors of the original articles or me can not be responsible for the misuse of a sauna or any problem with poor construction. Remember - safety first.

I hope this overview of the ways of building an infrared sauna yourself will be helpful. If you?re interested I recommend reading original instructions by the authors of these methods.

If you want more facts and independent opinions on a far infrared sauna, visit Paul Mernon's infrared sauna web site. Series of articles about infrared sauna health benefits, comparison of different infrared sauna heater types are examples of information you will find there.

Contractor Referral

As a contractor with 16 years of experience and speaking on behalf of professional contractors. I want people to be aware of the warning signs that they may be dealing with the wrong contractor.

Not every contractor is out to get you. The majority are honest, reputable business owners who strive to do quality work, using good materials at a reasonable cost. In fact, many of these contractors are members of associations such as the NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) or the BBB (Better Business Bureau).

For the past three years, I have conducted investigations in contractor/homeowner relations. I have heard numerous stories of why homeowners feel taken by home improvement service providers. Even though we have our own formulas on choosing a contractor the nightmare stories continue to stockpile. On the other hand, I have heard from several contractors of how they feel undercut by the competition and taken advantage of by the homeowner. Yet still, the bickering goes on.

While Mr. And Mrs. Jones wondered when there newly hired contractor would return, they would be able to use their kitchen for nothing other than a sloppy storage room. The Jones?s thought that the contractor they hired to completely remodel their kitchen was superior because he was highly recommended by a friend. They didn?t know that his license had expired along with his insurance and that he had a criminal history. They assumed that he was reputable and failed to check his credentials. So as the Jones?s wait, the contractor holds their money and left them with a completely destroyed kitchen.

How many times have we made a mistake like this and looked for someone else to blame?

After three years of research, it has been proven to me that the famous terms ?contractor? and ?nightmare? don?t always go hand in hand. Just as we use protection to keep our homes safe, we can use certain tools and resources for successfully screening contractors as we welcome them into our home. Typically, we teach our children to not open the door for strangers, as the same rule should take affect in interviewing a contractor.

During my research, I myself was licensed and bonded as a general contractor. I was also involved with an online contractor referral service. This online service was located in Colorado and promised homeowners in Washington State they would deliver; prescreened, pre-qualified and licensed service trades people at their request. As a contractor I was sent up to 20 job leads a day via email, for jobs I had no experience in. I accepted several of these leads and sold services, by contract, to the majority of these homeowners. At first I was quite successful until my company started to grow. Before I knew it I had an office in Mill Creek, an office staff and 12?15 employees. I was considering the development and expansion of new divisions within my company however, my mistakes were soon to be revealed. I received a phone call from a client complaining of the help that I had placed on the job and our progress. My client proceeded to tell me that my employees were taking 2 hour lunches and taking several 5-10 minute breaks a day. Later another client phoned in with the same concern. Both of these projects were finished late, as I started to focus on weeding out the spoiled help. During this process I had lost control of the remaining projects. As I was firing and disciplining the remaining staff, I was receiving at minimum of three calls a day from angry customers. I felt there was no way out. I finished the last of the projects myself and with the help of my last employee.

While my license had already expired and I was no longer insured however, I was still receiving 20 job leads a day from this same contractor referral. This contractor referral service that promised to screen contractors and deliver them to an already ?in fear? public, would refer my company and others I knew who were of the same caliber, licensed or not, insured or not.

P. McDonnell http://www.gooshimo.com

5 DIY Mail Order Plumbing Books To Buy

Too often when we need some plumbing done we pick up the phone and call the local plumber and there are times when that's just fine but there are also times when you can save money and do it yourself. So why not check out these 5 DIY Mail Order Plumbing Books?

1. Collins Complete DIY Manual

This book has become a best seller internationally. It's a trusted reference book for homeowners who want to undertake their own projects and for professionals too. It's an authoritative source that covers just about every aspect related to home improvements, not just plumbing. The revision has some great new photos and diagrams.

2. Readers Digest DIY Manual - Revised

This book has had an entire facelift from cover to cover with new photographs, new artwork, and a fresh new design layout but it still has all that great material that the original held.

This book is filled with useful information from decorating to renovating, to fixing, to building. So whether you need to install a new set of taps or you need to construct a bedroom this book can help. It's revised so it has some updated text and revised practices for accomplishing the job. There are also updates to materials to use.

There is even a new section on assembling furniture, adding a deck, and wiring your home entertainment center. You can save a lot of money using this book as a guide.

3. Home Improvement 1-2-3 Expert Advice From Home Depot

This is a real classic! There are 350 projects and 3,500 photographs in this book and more than 100 illustrations and charts. There are chapters on plumbing, wallpaper, painting, electrical systems, floors, doors, windows, shelves, cabinets, insulation, exteriors, heating, air conditioning, ventilation, and so much more.

You get very explicit directions no matter which project you choose. And there are projects designed for every skill level. You'll also find some great short cuts.

4. The Complete Photo Guide to Home Improvement: Over 1700 Photos, 250 Step-by-Step Projects

This is truly one of the best home improvement books on the market. In fact it is more like a manual. No matter what your project is this book will have the solution.

Whether you are planning to install a bathroom, build a laundry room, install a new set of shelves, or build that fabulous deck out back this book will take you through the steps from start to finish.

5. New Complete Guide to Home Repair & Improvement

This is actually the largest DIY manual on the market with more than 600 pages and 500 projects. It's got plenty of colorful illustrations to help you through the steps and it is organized into 4 large sections based on subject.

No matter what the project that you want to undertake you'll find it in this book. In fact it's like having your very own tutor right beside you.

Doing it yourself can not only save a bundle of money it can actually be a lot of fun. And a great way to get into the role of doing your own home repairs is to get a couple DIY mail order plumbing books online. So what are you waiting for?

Carl has been a professional plumber in a company he owns for more than 10 years not only is he experience in unclogging just about anything but also an expert in installing plumbing fixtures and installing new water lines. Carl will give you some helpful tips on plumbing installation when you visit http://www.alliedesolutions.com

Five Easy Steps to Installing a Toilet

Besides matching colors and style with the rest of you bathroom or powder room, you will want to consider a few more points.

(1) Roughing in specifications: This is the measurement from the wall to the center of the outlet. Typically they come in 10, 12 and 14 sizes. The standard is 12 but a measurement should be taken.

(2) Foot print of the toilet: If you are dealing with a remodel over an existing floor covering, you may want to reference a specification sheet for the area that the bottom of the toilet will cover. For new construction or a new flooring choice, it is also a good idea to have a reference so the flooring is close enough to the ring on the toilet flange.

(3) Toilet height: ADA toilets are not just being marketed to people who need them. The new term is Comfort Height. Taller people, older people and all other sorts are moving toward a taller toilet that you don?t have to go down as far to sit.

(4) Elongated/Round front: Elongated has a larger target area for the younger members of the family. Some drawbacks are that some people don?t like the looks and if the bathroom is smaller or even average size, the bowl may protrude to the point of being in the way.

Before you begin: observe all local plumbing and building codes. Carefully inspect the new toilet for damage. If the existing toilet does not have a supply shut-off value below the tank, install one before installing the new toilet.

Caution: risk of personal injury or product damage. Handle with care. Vitreous china can break or chip if the bolts and nuts are over tightened or if the product is handled carelessly.

Installation Instructions

Step 1: Remove the old toilet
Turn the water supply off. Flush the toilet, and sponge out any remaining water. Disconnect the water supply connection. Remove the old bolt caps, toilet, and T-bolts, and scrape off the old wax seal from the closet flange.

Insert new T-bolts. If installation of the new toilet is delayed, temporarily cover the closet flange hole with a rag.

Step 2: Install the new bowl
Record model number in Homeowner?s Guide. From the bottom of the bowl, firmly press a new wax seal around the bowl outlet. Remove the temporary rag (if used) from the closet flange.

Caution: risk of external leakage. Do not lift or rock the bowl after placement ? if you break the watertight seal, you must install a new wax seal. Align and lower the bowl over the closet flange and T-bolts. Apply full body weight around the bowl rim to set the seal. Do not assemble metal washers and nuts on T-bolts at this time.

Please the bolt cap bases in the ?up? position over each T-bolt. Secure the washer and nut to each T-bolt.

Caution: risk of product damage. When cutting off excess T-bolt length, protect the vitreous china surface from exposure to the saw blade.

If the T-bolts extend more than ?? (6mm) over the nuts, cut off the excess. Snap the bolt caps onto each bolt cap base.

Step 3: Install the tank
With three tank bolts, pre-assembled through the gasket holes, position the tank on the bowl by centering the gasket on bowl inlet. Assemble the washers and nuts to the tank bolts. Tighten the three nuts so the tank is level. Be sure the nuts are tight enough to achieve a watertight seal.

Step 4: Connect the supply
Connect the supply shut-off valve to the toilet supply shank. Open the supply shut-off valve slowly and check for leaks. Install the toilet seat. Test flush the toilet several times. Periodically check for leaks for several days following installation.

Step 5: Adjustments
Adjust the tank water level to the marked water line by squeezing and sliding the C-clip on the float rod. To raise the water level, slide the C-clip up. To lower the water level, slide the C-clip down.

Installation Hints
The installation of a toilet is a very simple job and you need very few products in addition to what is in the box(s); but here are some things that should be replaced while in the area.

Wax ring: Inexpensive and a good idea to replace, even if you are taking the toilet off and putting it back on to the same flange. Note: The horned rings are easier to line up and help prevent leaks.

Toilet bolts: Also inexpensive; however you do not need to replace these unless you had to cut the old ones off. The brass does become corroded and hard to manage. Note: Give the plastic models a try. Plumbers give them great reviews.

Supply line: While you are working in the area, supply lines can vary from toilet to toilet and can become old and cracked. Replace, and save a possible headache down the road. Note: The braided lines work very well. They are flexible and add a neat look to the room.

Take a dry run at the installation. If the bowl and tank are not connected yet, set the bowl in place. Make sure the footprint covers the exposed area of the floor and it does not wobble excessively. When installing a two-piece toilet, after you have set the bowl down, set the tank on top to make sure you have proper clearance behind the bowl, and on all sides.

Note: Write the tank and bowl number on the underside of the tank lid for future reference.

If you are unsure of your workmanship and you think you might have some leaks, shut the water off after filling the tank. If there is a leak, you will only have one tank of water on the floor instead of an endless supply. When installing a two-piece toilet, you may connect the tank to the bowl prior to setting the toilet. When it is in two pieces, it is lighter and easier to move around. However, connecting the tank to the bowl is much easier when the bowl is not bolted to the floor. Remember to tighten the tank bolts evenly.

Make sure the bolt cap anchors are on BEFORE you put the nuts on the toilet bolts. If the caps do not fit on the anchor, or if the bolts seem to long, cut them off.

Lastly, if you are unsure of your workmanship and you think you might have some leaks, shut the water off after filling the tank. If there is a leak, you will only have one tank of water on the floor instead of the endless supply.

Employee Wholesale Direct is where you receive the full advantage of purchasing thousands of home remodeling products at true wholesale prices. Buy brand name discount faucets, discount sinks, discount toilets, and much more. EWDIR can be found online at http://www.ewdir.com

Home Improvement Projects

Where to Start

People want to do home improvement projects all the time to increase the value of their home. Many people, however, do not know which project to tackle first when they have multiple projects to be done. Picking which project to do first can be decided by a number of things. Money and urgency are the biggest factors in this. If you have a hole in your roof, obviously you need to get that fixed before putting a shed up in your yard. But if you need new windows because the old ones are older than you and your bathroom looks like it?s stuck in the 70?s, you have a choice. Some improvements will be more time consuming than others and that should be taken into consideration before starting anything.

Before you Start

Do your research before starting anything. Whether you plan to do the project yourself or hire someone to do it for you, make sure you know what you are getting into before buying anything or signing any contract. Any home improvement job can be done by yourself or a company. Depending on the job will depend on what you need to not only get it done, but also how much it will cost. Check out different home improvement stores for varying prices as well as professionals. Ask your neighbors who did their project and how much it cost, if they are willing to tell you the price. If they did it themselves, ask how long it took and if they ran into any problems they didn?t believe they would encounter. If they did encounter problems, ask them how they fixed them. On the other hand if they used a professional ask what they thought of the work the professional did. Knowing what you might be getting into is the best knowledge of all. And if it is possible, ask more than one home owner about the same project so you can compare notes.

Do It Yourself versus Professional

You have decided what project you want to do. You have done your research and have an idea what it should cost and how long it should take. Now you must decide if you want to do it yourself or hire a professional crew to do it for you. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Doing it yourself can be much cheaper because you aren?t paying labor costs that are added to the professionals? prices. However you have to know that you will have ample time to fix complete the project and that you can live in your home comfortably enough while you do finish. Also if you run into a complication, you have to know how to fix it quickly so as not to lose any more time on completing the project. This can get expensive if you don?t know how to fix it or are on limited time and money. Having a professional do it can cost thousands more, depending on the project, but you will have an estimate time of completion. And, the best part of all, if there are any mess ups, you are not responsible for fixing them. Well for the most part you won?t be responsible. You will need to read the fine print on any contract you sign with a professional. Another advantage of having a professional is that the work is warranted.

Using the Professional

Once you decide to go with a professional, you should get multiple quotes before making your choice of who to use. Even if the company that did your neighbors windows comes highly recommended, your house is different and they may have different pricing specials now than when your neighbors had their windows put in. Get at least four or five quotes to see exactly what the professionals cost and the differences in how they do business, their warranty works, estimate for when they can start your project, and completion time frame. Don?t go for just the big ads in the phone book. The smaller companies can be just as good and cost less than a big name. Most places give free estimates nowadays. No matter what, don?t let any professional push you into using them before you have all the estimates you want. They may sound great as the first or second, but their job is to get you sign with them and convince you they are better than anyone else out there. Take everything they say with a grain of salt.

D. David Dugan has a website, http://homeimprovement.divinfo.com to help homeowners find all the information they need about remodeling, home repair, building decks and carports, room additions, and more. He also actively participates in an article directory at http://www.articlemotron.com that has current and up to date information on many topics.

Last Minute Halloween Decoration Spooky Bouquet

Don't panic, I tell myself. Yes, there's less than one week to go before Halloween, and I haven't prepared anything for my party yet. Just don't panic ... oh, I'm afraid I actually DO panic!

If you are like me and tend to leave things to the very last minute, you might be in desperate need for a Halloween decoration that

• is easy and quick to do,
• doesn't strain your budget too much and
• will earn you some admiring 'Ohs' and 'Ahs' from your guests.

Here comes the 'Spooky Bouquet' to the rescue! For one bouquet you'll need:

• four high quality 11 latex balloons, preferably with Halloween design, but if you can't get those, three plain black and one plain orange balloon will do as well,
• color matching curling ribbon (5mm wide),
• a plastic or ceramic pumpkin for the base (or any other small item that fits the theme and to which you can attach the ribbons) and
• a small flask of helium to fill the balloons.

How to make it

You start with inflating the first of your black balloons with helium. Before you tie the knot you should make sure that the balloon is fully inflated to its 11 size. This is important as the bouquet will only look good if all balloons are blown up to the same size. There are two easy ways to do this: you could make yourself a simple 'balloon sizer' by cutting a circle of 11 diameter out of a piece of cardboard or you could set up two chairs back to back, so that the distance between them equals 11.

So, before you knot the balloon, pass it through your sizer and if necessary, deflate or inflate the balloon until it fits. Now take about 1m length from your curling ribbon and tie it to the balloon neck, leaving ca. 30cm loose for curling. Then attach the other end of the ribbon to your base. The overall height from the base to the top of the balloon should be about 80cm.

Repeat these steps for the other two black balloons. Position all three balloons at the same height.

O.k., just one more step to finish your Spooky Bouquet. Take the last balloon, in our example that would be the orange balloon, inflate it as described above and attach it to the base, so that it floats in the center of the three black balloons and just above them. You found the perfect position, when the top balloon just slightly touches the three black balloons.

Congratulations. You're done! Now stand back and admire your floating bouquet. There are so many Halloween themed balloons, both latex and foil, that you can easily create variations of this basic design. For example, you'll get a nice effect, if you replace the top latex balloon with a foil balloon - it could be a crazy pumpkin, a flying witch or a ghastly ghost ... whatever you prefer.

One special tip: as this is a last minute decoration idea, it might be too late to order a helium tank from a specialised balloon supplier. Maybe you know a small corner shop in your neighborhood that sells balloons. They probably have helium too. If it's not for sale, ask them to inflate your balloons on the spot and take the inflated balloons home with you. Of course, you should go there prepared and take the curling ribbon and the balloon sizer with you.

If you'd like to see the instructions for the 'Spooky Bouquet' illustrated with photos, please check out the 'Halloween Decoration' page on our step-by-step 'Balloon Decoration Guide'. You'll also find tips on tying balloons without ending up 'all fingers and thumbs' or how to greatly increase the floating time of helium filled latex balloons.

Margit Streifeneder has been a successful Small Business Owner for 10 years. Together with her life partner, a professional balloon decorator, she developed the 'DIY Balloon Decoration Guide' to provide useful how-to-information for everyone interested in creating their own balloon decor.

The Fun of Do It Yourself Snake and other Reptile Cages

Are you nuts? You think banging your finger with a hammer is fun? No, I don?t. But building your own snake and other reptile cages can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Before you even start, it is important to spend some time planning your reptile enclosure and carefully examining at how other cages are manufactured. Check out all of the parts, examine the locks, joins and vents. How is the lighting done? What about the heating?

Use this information to design your own cages, based on the needs of your reptile and its size. Work out the size of cage you require and design it accordingly, altering the basic designs as needed to suit your purposes.

Building something yourself is a great feeling. I personally enjoy the process of shopping for materials and deciding which is best for the purpose.

There are quite a few questions to consider, such as:

?what should I make the base from
?what is the best way to make a vent
?how do you make the base water resistant
?what sort of lock should I use
?what sort of door should I use and how do I make it
?what is the best light fitting
?How should I heat it

Getting the materials home and the anticipation of starting your reptile cage is an exciting time. The will be frustrations to overcome, problems to solve but the feeling of accomplishing and achievement you finally get from building something yourself is fantastic.

Every time you go into the room and see the cages you made you can feel good about them. Sure, you will sometimes get a bit picky about the smaller details. What could you have done better, what if you had done this here etc. ? well maybe next time.

Some people even use the skills they learn to make cages for other people and make a bit of money. Once you have the skills and tools it is easy. Even if you don not have all of the tools, there are ways around it. You can go to local cabinet makers when you need something cut to size that is too large for you to handle. They are generally happy to oblige for a small fee and you get a perfectly square piece of timber.

On a final note, making your own cages is a fun and rewarding experience and is recommended it to anyone considering it.

Mark Chapple is the Author of How to build enclosures for reptiles. Find out how anyone can build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com

Interior Design DIYers Artistically Challenged? Maybe Not!

Even the shows that strive to replicate high-end rooms miss the mark more often than not in one or more elements. Not by much. Not as much as yours, perhaps. But enough to see the difference in a side-by-side comparison between the inspiration and the inexpensive look-alike. However, when you take away the picture of the room with the sumptuous fabrics, one-of-a kind antiques, custom-made window coverings and furniture, and art and accessories that are sometimes so expensive their price is not included in the room's tally-and look at its copy--the untrained eye has a hard time telling the difference between expensive and inexpensive.

The decorating and renovating television shows give you step-by-step instructions on projects you could easily solve with a trip to your local home renovation center. And, of course, that's what most DIY homeowners do. But you have probably noticed, your home renovation center sales person is not giving design advice. They can't. They are not designers.

Designers on the shows casually mention the fact that color can pull a room together. Good luck figuring that one out from their information. Color where? on what? adn how much?

Then there's that mine field of art and accessories. As mentioned before, sometimes these things are so expensive, their price is whispered or omitted. So, believe it or not, this is the step most DIY homeowners leave out of their decorating process or take a half-hearted swipe at dealing with. Of course, there is all that pesky stuff in between--the space planning, the window covering, etc., etc., etc.

It may seem decorating and interior design should be left to the professionals. And these shows are not vague by mistake. Professionals guard their ability to design spaces like their life depended upon it. Well, at least as though their income depended upon it.

Guess what. People who use professional interior designers don't always use them because they have deep pockets or even because they are artistically challenged. More often, it's because they don't have the time. No matter what the reason, everyone is not going to use a professional, regardless of how far from hitting the mark the DIY homeowner misses.

DIY homeowners have more time than money. They don't trust someone with interpreting their lifestyle. They like the idea of a hands-on approach to their spaces. They can't or won't spend what they think may be over-priced. They don't want the long wait for custom-made anything. And the list goes on.

You would think books on the subject would be clearer in their effort to help the homeowner. With all the space and time reading a book permits, this is not the case. No surprise there. These books are generally written by interior designers with a scarcity mind set. There's not enough to go around, so let's leave out just enough information so the prospective DIY homeowner will have to use a professional.

Homeowners, apartment dwellers, take heart! Design is a teachable process. It doesn't have to be scary or mystical. If all you want is to make a better space for yourself, you don't need a degree in interior design. People have been decorating their spaces since the caveman.

It's your home, decorate it.

Connie LeGendre empowers homeowners designing their interiors through e-courses and newsletters. DIY homeowners are encouraged to ask questions about their projects when signed up for a Free, downloadable e-course 7 New Secrets to Unleashing the Designer in You, at http://www.interiordesignclinic.com

A trained architect and interior designer, fifteen years teaching and running her design business with high-end clients demanding cost-effective and unique solutions, Ms. LeGendre brings that considerable background to her online tips, information, solutions, and Q&A website. The mission is to help translate financially out-of-reach design into affordable cretions for anyone who wants to do it themselves.

Materials for Snake and other Reptile Cages

What kind of materials should you use when constructing a reptile cage? This question was posed to me once by someone wishing to build their own reptile cage. They were particularly asking about pine and cedar as they had heard these were no good. But it did raise the question about what are the best materials.

All-glass, tubs, melamine cages, screen cages, there are many different types of housing systems for herps. Take your pick, depending on the adult size of the animal, how much room you have to spare, and how much money you are willing to spend!

Aquarium tanks: Good choice for keeping snakes under 6 feet, amphibians, turtles, and basically anything requiring a swimming pool or some humidity. If a screen top is used, there will be enough ventilation to keep a sand boa or leopard gecko or any desert animal in it. If higher humidity is needed, the screen top can be partially wrapped with Saran wrap, and the tank can be treated as a tropical garden; put soil in it and plant some plants to raise the humidity!

Viewing is unrestricted, the tank can be easily cleaned, it will not get scratched, and temperatures are easier to maintain. They are very cumbersome to move around, especially big ones, or fully-loaded ones. They need to be on a solid table or stand and if you do want to move them, the stand will need solid castors. Many lizards such as water dragons should not be kept in glass tanks, as they do not understand glass and will continuously ram into it. Tanks should not be considered for chameleons; cages are better.

Plastic/Rubbermaid tubs: The feeding trough sizes are great for turtles! You can half-fill them with water, pile rocks in a corner for the basking area, put a lilypad or two in it, and have your own indoor pond complete with turtles! For the more common sizes, the sweater boxes and shoe boxes, any non-aquatic herp can be kept in them. In fact, these are used in breeding racks and in households with too many herps to be able to have the amount of tanks/cages to keep them all in. Not good for arboreals, as they cannot climb. Perfect for use during the quarantine period prior to introducing a new animal to an established collection. These restrict viewing, and are generally limited to hatchling animals. Good to use as an emergency/isolation enclosure.

Melamine cages: Melamine is the stuff many countertops are made of. They resist moisture well, so rotting is usually not a problem. They're easily cleaned as well. Custom-made enclosures are sometimes made of melamine, and you can build furniture-quality enclosures yourself. These can be made to fit a leopard gecko or a fully grown green iguana. With a glass front, these enclosures hold humidity incredibly well.

Wood [plywood cages: Same as for melamine, except much cheaper and easier to work with. Both enclosures, if ordered from a custom builder, can cost a great deal depending on size and material.

Screen cages/Reptariums: Excellent for anoles, chameleons, light-bodied snakes, and young water dragons. The major disadvantages are that the largest size is only 29 x 29 x 72, humidity is very difficult to keep up, and strong animals could knock them over or even move them. This is a great idea for an easily-transported cage for small animals.

MDF or craftwood: Same as for Melamine but also much cheaper. Good for use in combination cages ie Melamine base with MDF sides, back etc. It can be painted, has good thermal properties and if used in conjunction with a coating material such as Contact, will hold humidity well. Excellent to work with and has a smooth finish. You can also use thinner sheets as it retains its rigidity. Some people recommend wearing a mask when cutting or routing MDF as it can be dusty.

Pine or Cedar: Neither of these timbers should be used to construct a cage. Making the whole reptile cage from the pine or cedar has potential health problems for the animals. These woods emit aromatic hydrocarbons that can damage the health of the animals and cause various symptoms. There is probably little issue using as the woods in framing, as the wood has often dried out a lot and released much of the volatile material, or at the very least, the rate at which it is released is very slow.

It also is recommended that you do not use pine or cedar as a substrate. Pine and cedar wood shavings used as substrates have a very high surface area and so the hydrocarbons are released much more readily, making them potentially toxic, especially as the animals like to burrow and immerse themselves in their substrate material.

PVC Tubing & Mesh or Plexiglas: These materials make excellent larger cages for animals such as monitors, larger snakes, chameleons and iguanas. They do tend to lose a bit of heat but any large enclosure will require some effort to maintain a higher temperature. Lighting at the top and some at the sides (if needed) will create a sufficient heat gradient. Short of building a large frame with glass and a large door, this is the most economical way to make a larger enclosure if you do not have woodworking tools.

Overall, if you want to construct your own cages for most reptiles, you are probably better off using plywoods, melamine and MDF types of materials for most of the cage. There does not at this stage seem to be any identifiable health issues caused by these materials. Another benefit with these materials is their insulating properties. Glass is not a good material for most reptile cages (except aquatic species) as it loses heat rapidly. Many glass terrariums have an open top with no seal and this also causes a high heat loss. This means the glass cages are more expensive to heat if you use certain types of heat sources.

The front of the cage can be sliding glass, Plexiglas or a constructed glass door. A pine, oak or similar timber frame at the front will give the cage a more professional and decorative appearance.

If you paint your cage, remember to let it dry out for a minimum of 2-3 days to release as much of the volatile material from the paints. 5-7 days would be even better.

It is a good idea to make the base of a wooden reptile cage from melamine and use Silicon to seal around the edges, to prevent moisture penetrating the melamine or plywood sheeting.

There are hints and tips on applying Silicone in the How to Build Reptile Enclosures booklet.

A base of vinyl flooring can also be used if you are concerned about water penetration into the timbers. Be sure to seal it with Silicon and seal the holes where temperature probes are passed through.

You can also coat the MDF or plywood interiors of the cage with 'Contact', a plastic sheeting with an adhesive backing, in any colors you like, before you assemble the cage. This will remove the need to paint the cage inside, reducing fumes, and also provide a water proof seal for the MDF or plywood. Contact comes in a range of colors and is very easy to apply cut and apply.

There is much to be gained from building your own reptile cage. It is good fun and will give you, as a reptile owner, a great deal of personal satisfaction. Before you do go out and purchase a reptile, take some time to research what is the best sort of cage for your pet. You should be aware that many reptiles will grow considerably over time and you may have to build a number of cages. Good luck and enjoy.

Mark Chapple is the Author of How to Build Reptile Enclosures. Find out how to build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com

Home Improvement: Ten Pretty Good Rules

1. Never wrestle with your furnace; you both get dirty and the furnace doesn't care!

2. Never argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference!

3. It's easier to obtain forgiveness than it is permission!

4. Don't ask the question if you can't live with the answer!

5. If you want a new idea, read an old book!

6. If you don't know what you're building, any tool will do the job!

7. Never have a philosophy which supports a lack of courage!

8. Never look back unless you intend to go that way!

9. How you hold your tongue really does make a difference!

10. Renovation is a good excuse to spend the money on tools!

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!