Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Learning The Basics of Bathtub Refinishing

Bathing is a very pleasurable experience that relaxes the whole body giving a person a chance to rest and cleanse him or herself at the same time. Slipping into a hot bath (bubbles optional) for a period of time allows one to just close their eyes, relax, and just have a quiet time by himself or herself (bathing partner optional again). However, the way your bathtub looks can add to the enjoyment and fun in your bathing experience.

Giving your bathtub a different look doesn?t mean that you should buy a brand new one. Buying a new one can be very expensive. So, with a little imagination and by following these simple steps, you can refinish your bathtub, give it that brand new look and have a more pleasurable experience bathing in your new bathtub.

When refinishing your bathtub, you may want to consider your safety first before any other thing. Firstly, you need to make sure that your work area is well ventilated because refinishing your bathtub will involve the use of several kinds of chemicals. Make a checklist of safety materials you need before you go on and start refinishing your bathtub.

Protect yourself from chemicals that can be harmful to you by wearing safety goggles and gloves and also protect yourself from fumes by using a ventilator. Once you have all the necessary safety equipments, get all your supplies and start refinishing your bathtub.

The first thing you have to do in refinishing your bathtub once you have all safety equipments on is giving your bathtub a cursory cleaning and removing of any loose caulking or gaskets.

You can buy bathtub refinishing kits in your local hardware store which will usually include several chemicals. You will notice that at least one or two of the chemicals are cleaning solutions that will relatively prepare your bathtub for refinishing. These chemicals will remove soaps and oils from the surface of the bathtub. It will also require you to scrub your bathtub with sandpaper, usually with a 220 or 240 grit. The next step is to rinse away any residue caused by sandpaper scrubbing.

Once you have cleaned the bathtub, the next step is to apply the primer. However, before you apply the primer, you should first mask the areas you don?t want to refinish. You can do this with a masking tape and paper. Make sure you cover the areas you don?t want to refinish.

Applying the base coat for your bathtub is the next step for refinishing your bathtub. Always remember to wear safety gears, like a respirator, a pair of gloves and goggles to ensure no harm comes to your body. After you applied the base coat, let it thoroughly dry first before applying the topcoat.

The top coat is the color you want your bathtub to have. It can be anything you want. When mixing the top coat for your bathtub, follow the manufacturer?s instruction for maximum quality. Apply the paint or the top coat with a spray gun in a smooth and even motion. It will take about 48 to 72 hours to cure, depending on the weather.

Refinishing your bathtub can be one of the best and cost-effective ways to give your bathroom a new look. Besides, if you can do it yourself, why hire someone else to do the job for you?

These are the basic process on how to refinish your bathtub by yourself. Always remember that your main priority when doing this kind of project is your safety. So, don?t forget to wear safety gears when you refinish.

Giving your bathtub a different look doesn?t mean that you should buy a brand new one. You know that buying a new one can be very expensive. So, with a little imagination and by following these simple steps, you can refinish your bathtub, give it that brand new look and have a more pleasurable experience bathing in your new bathtub.

When refinishing your bathtub, you may want to consider your safety first before any other thing. Firstly, you need to make sure that your work area is well ventilated because refinishing your bathtub will involve the use of several kinds of chemicals. Make a checklist of safety materials you need before you go on and start refinishing your bathtub.

Protect yourself from chemicals that can be harmful to you by wearing safety goggles and gloves and also protect yourself from fumes by using a ventilator. Once you have all the necessary safety equipments, get all your supplies and start refinishing your bathtub.

The first thing you have to do in refinishing your bathtub once you have all safety equipments on is giving your bathtub a cursory cleaning and removing of any loose caulking or gaskets.

You can buy bathtub refinishing kits in your local hardware store which will usually include several chemicals. You will notice that at least one or two of the chemicals are cleaning solutions that will relatively prepare your bathtub for refinishing. These chemicals will remove soaps and oils from the surface of the bathtub. It will also require you to scrub your bathtub with sandpaper, usually 220 or 240 grit. The next step is to rinse away any residue caused by sandpaper scrubbing.

Once you have cleaned the bathtub, the next step is to apply the primer. However, before you apply the primer, you should first mask the areas you don?t want to refinish. You can do this with a masking tape and paper. Make sure you cover the areas you don?t want to refinish thoroughly.

Applying the base coat for your bathtub is the next step for refinishing your bathtub. Always remember to wear safety gears, like a respirator, a pair of gloves and goggles to ensure no harm comes to your body. After you applied the base coat, let it thoroughly dry first before applying the top coat.

The top coat is the color you want your bathtub to have. It can be anything you want. When mixing the top coat for your bathtub, follow the manufacturer?s instruction for maximum quality. Apply the paint or the top coat with a spray gun in a smooth and even motion. It will take about 48 to 72 hours to cure, depending on the weather.

Refinishing your bathtub can be one of the best and cost-effective ways to give your bathroom a new look. Besides, if you can do it yourself, why hire someone else to do the job for you?

These are the basic process on how to refinish your bathtub by yourself. Always remember that your main priority when doing this kind of project is your safety. So, don?t forget to wear safety gears when you refinish.

Claire Bowes is a successful freelance writer and owner of Bathtub Refinishing and Designs where you will find further tips to spruce up your bathtub.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Kitchen Quick Fixes and Fresheners

Kitchens often take the most abuse and wear of any room in our homes. They are also often the last room we think about redecorating because it's only seen by you. Your kitchen should be as fabulous as you are and encourage culinary creativity, great conversation and express your personality. Here are a few of my tips for quick and easy fresheners that will transform your kitchen from blah to hurrah for under $100. Paint ?the essential ingredient in a clean and fresh kitchen.

If your walls are dingy and stained you're not going to feel fabulous cooking or conversing in the kitchen. Plainly speaking, paint is the most versatile decorating tool available that can so easily transform a space while being so affordable. Paint your walls in an exquisite new colour; my favorites right now are saffron yellows, celery greens and rich warm egg creams for the kitchen. A new colour will do a lot to lighten and brighten your kitchen. When you're finished the walls, ceilings and trim, don't forget about your cabinets. Give them a completely new look. Try painting your island or peninsula one colour (maybe a rich chocolate) and your wall cabinetry another colour (a warm cream). Melamine paint is best for kitchen cabinets, since it's so durable and easy to clean. Don't feel limited; nearly everything can be painted with the right primer and some prep work. Backsplash.

Think of your backsplash like the finishing touch to a really great outfit. It needs to be sexy and stylish, yet functional and easy to maintain. By changing or upgrading your backsplash you will completely elevate the look and feel of your kitchen. For a fresh and retro look try using white ceramic subway tiles, they are readily available, very inexpensive and easy to install. Another of my favorites (albeit a bit more expensive) is to use stone tile with a pillow edge. This will give your kitchen a grand and stately feeling. Or if you're feeling sexy and sleek pop out to a metal wholesaler (with your exact measurements) and try using some brushed stainless steel panels, you will be the talk of your neighbourhood. Cabinet Hardware.

By changing your hardware you can transform a dull kitchen into something sexy and eye catching. I recommend making a statement?try using oversized (12 or 16) stainless steel rod pulls on all your cabinetry to give you a sleek and sexy designer look. Other options might be to go to a salvage shop and find authentic retro glass knobs or bone pulls. You can literally get hundreds of great designs, just go on the prowl and find something that captures your imagination. Accessories and Furnishings.

The biggest culprit in thwarting a fresh kitchen makeover is clutter, or as I so very often say, edit-edit-edit. Chances are if you haven't touched the bread machine in three years, you don't need it! Put away all the junky clutter, bad gifts and design mish-mash. Take everything off your counters and then only put back the things you most often use and find a home for the rest. Then add just a few design elements to the space such as an oversized glass lid jar filled with fresh ingredients and where possible upgrade a few of your counter appliances to sleek new stainless steel models.

Window Treatments.

With the incredible variety and availability of sexy new window treatments you can find the perfect accompaniment to any d?cor. Try Zen-feeling burnt matchstick to classic wood shutters, or my favourite, clean and crisp Roman blinds. Spend a weekend and clean, prep, paint and style your fresh new kitchen. You will be amazed at the difference it makes not only to your enjoyment of your home but in how it makes you feel ? Isn't time to feel sexy, fresh and new?

Great Design in essence is about the creation of an exquisite stage for the beauty and quality of life we all desire. From ultra urban to ornate opulence, Robin and his team have passionately and successfully designed it all. Robin?s interiors have graced the pages of magazines Worldwide. Robin has designed interiors for feature films, major retailers such as Home Depot (Style Ideas Magazine) and the Designer Showhouse. From smaller scale interior projects to full scale restorations and developments, Robin?s passionate and creative eye overseas all aspects. While fluent in all design trends and philosophies, Robin is most passionate about historic preservation and the creation of elegant, functional and memorable spaces that convey the best attributes of each owner while respecting and celebrating the architecture that encompasses them. Visit http://www.robindegroot.ca

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Inspiring Home Designs

So when you redesign your home, what exactly should you do to it? If you?re short on inspiration, here are a few ideas to get you started.

The place where many people like to really go to town with their design ideas is in babies? and children?s rooms ? you can paint them bright colours, do imaginative pictures of fantasy environments, draw pictures of the child?s favourite characters from books and TV, and so much more besides. If you do this, why not let the child join in with the painting and show you what they want, with you just being there to help make their decoration dreams come true. However, one thing to be careful of is to keep redecorating their room as they get older ? you don?t want them to be embarrassed to bring around friends when they?re a teenager because of their babyishly coloured room.

Another idea could be to make an ?outdoors? house, taking inspiration from your garden in how to design your home. This means lots of greens and blues, lots of plants, outdoor fragrances, lots of windows ? a real outdoor feel indoors.

Indeed, the best way to design a home yourself is often to just pick a theme and take it as far as it will go. I know a couple with a ?space house?, complete with portraits of rockets and black ceilings with painted stars ? it sounds silly, but it?s really interesting to look at. Whatever you?re passionate about, make your house show it.

Don?t forget, though, that redecorating doesn?t have to be all about tearing things down and buying new stuff. You can get a long way with a few posters, ornaments, or just reorganising or repainting your furniture. You really don?t need to break the bank and hire a handyman to get your ideal home, as a little work can go a long way.

John Gibb is the owner of Home-Design-guides For more information on home design check out http://www.Home-Design-guides.Info

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Bedroom Accessories What and How to Choose

'Bedroom accessories' has become a catchall title for all items, furnishings, shelving systems, bedding, and linens found in a bedroom. Your bedroom is typically a room in whish you wish to shut the world out, take a break from the day, and relax. When buying bedroom accessories, make sure you are buying something that will enhance your bedrooms value to you.

Shelves are very useful bedroom accessories. These handy furnishings allow you to organize your belongings much more efficiently. Organization is one of the greatest gifts you can give yourself and your bedroom. Shelves come in many shapes and sizes, the shelves that will work best for your bedroom, depend largely on the types of things you wish to display within your room. If you have fewer display items and/or books, you may prefer smaller shelves that take up less visual space. If your bedroom is small, painting your shelves, the same color, as your wall will give the appearance of a larger room and call less attention to the shelves themselves.

Other bedroom accessories include beds, which are quite useful when you think about it. Beds have rather self-explanatory functions, but there are different types of beds to consider in order to find the one that will work best for your room. You can choose between traditional beds in twin, full, queen, king, or California king sizes. In addition to traditional beds there are daybeds, futons, sofa beds, waterbeds, and airbeds. Finding the bed that will work best for the space you have available and the overall tone you are trying to achieve in your bedroom.

In addition to the above mentioned bedroom accessories drawers come in many shapes and sizes and offer both function and visual appeal in your bedroom. Whether you have an eclectically furnished room or a suite of matching furniture, there are many different styles and sizes of bedroom drawers that are available. Some of the more popular types of drawers that can be found in traditional bedrooms are: Dressers, lingerie chests, nightstands, chests of drawers, and bachelor chests. Any one or several of these will function to help you store clothing and other items and are great accessories for the bedroom. When shopping for bedroom accessories, be sure to compare prices not only among stores, but different items within a particular family. You may be surprised to find that more storage space occasionally costs less money.

If you lack space for hanging clothes, you may wish to purchase bedroom accessories that double as a space in which to store hanging clothes. Some excellent examples of this particular type of furniture are: chifferobes, armoires, and wardrobes. Both chifferobes and armoires offer both space for hanging clothes and drawer space as well. If you have a need for both and limited space in your bedroom, you may wish to give serious consideration to one of these versatile pieces.

Bedroom accessories come in all shapes and sizes and ultimately are a matter of choice for your tastes, needs, and available space. Find the accessories that work best for you and enjoy them!

Allen Maccey is an author, writing for House Hobby DIY web site at the Bedroom section

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Taking The Mystery Out Of Nails

Nails can only be used in fibrous material hence you cannot use a nail to hold anything to metal or plastic. The reason a nail works is that when it penetrates the fibrous material, the fibers bend in the direction of the penetration and literally grip the nail. It takes more force to remove a nail then it does to drive a nail.

Although nails come in hundreds of shapes, in this article we will discuss the two most popular; common and finishing nails.

Common nail, used for rough carpentry as the head always shows. Common nails come in sizes from 1 to 4 inches have a smooth shank and a diamond shaped tip. The longer the nail, the thicker it is and the bigger the head. The rule of thumb is that a nail should be three times longer than the thickness of the item that you are attaching. For general 2 x X lumber use a 3.5 or 4 inch nail. 3.5 inch when nailing side-to-side, 4 inch when nailing to an end grain. When nailing two 2 x X pieces of lumber together use a 3.5 inch nail and angle it so that it does not penetrate the second piece of lumber. Nails that penetrate all the way through a board provide less grip than a nail that is buried within the lumber. If a nail penetrates, the penetrating end should be bent over for two reasons, increase the strength of the joint and safety. An improved rough carpentry spiral nail is now being manufactured which provides greater holding power. The spiral nail is twisted and turns as it penetrates the lumber (similar to a screw). Do not use spiral nails for temporary nailing as they are much more difficult to remove than a smooth shank common nail.

Finishing nail, used for finished carpentry as the head can be conveniently recessed and the material filled so that the head does not show. Finishing nails come in sizes from ? inch to 3? (the smaller ? inch to 1? are know as brads). The length rule does not apply to finishing nails, as it is usually necessary to use a nail that is much longer than three times the thickness of the item you are attaching. When using finishing nails in hardwood or near the end of a piece of lumber, such as a trim or molding, it is always wise to drill a hole in the material being attached, as this will avoid splitting the lumber. The hole should be slightly less than the diameter of the nail. The best way to determine the size is to use your drill box. Remove the drills and try to place the nail in the hole that the drill came out of. Use the next size down from the last hole that the nail would slide into. Remember that it is not necessary to grip the material being attached, as the head, even a finishing nail head, will hold the material in place.

For additional information on fasteners or general information on other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Buying Woodworking Tools for your Workshop

Anyone that has their own workshop will know the importance of having the right tools and equipment, and this includes having the right woodworking tools. Whether you are simply a DIY enthusiast or whether you do woodwork and carpentry as a profession, the right tools can make a big difference to your enjoyment of the job as well as to the finished result. The quality and choice when it comes to this type of equipment has soared over recent years, and you can now kit out your workshop with a range of excellent products at affordable prices. You can get top manufacturers such as Rockwell tools, Sears tools, Hitachi tools, and Rigid tools, all of which offer great quality and fine craftsmanship, enabling you to enjoy your woodworking hobby or profession with complete peace of mind.

Where to get your tools at great prices

There are a number of places you can go to get tools for your workshop, and obviously you want to find the place that offers the best choice as well as the best value for money, which hasn?t always been easy. The local DIY stores will sell a range of tools, but the choice isn?t always great and you could find that they are expensive because they have to cover the overheads of running the store, which if often done through price inflation on goods sold. You may get a better deal at woodworking shows, where you can usually get some good deals on equipment for your workshop but you may again find that the choice can be quite limited. It can be difficult finding the right combination of low prices, good quality, and excellent choice when it comes to buying your workshop equipment, but it is possible to get all this as well as ease, convenience, and overall value for money.

Enjoy the convenience and affordability of getting your equipment online, and kit out your workshop without breaking the bank

If you want to get the best deal on your equipment for your workshop the Internet is the best place to look. These days you can get some excellent value on your woodworking equipment from places such as Rockler Woodworking. You will enjoy great reputation, excellent quality, unrivalled choice, and low prices. On top of all this you can browse the equipment and compare prices from the comfort of your own home, place your order electronically, make your payment safely and securely via the Internet, and enjoy fast and efficient delivery of your goods, which will be delivered right to your door with speed. Ordering online will not only save you time and hassle, but will save you the inconvenience of having to go out and buy your equipment or waiting long periods for your order to be processed and your goods delivered.

The copywriter Jerry Blackburn is really interested in news about discount woodworking tools and woodworking shows. Recording his experience in writings on woodworking tools the author showed his know-how in the area.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Laying Vinyl Tile the Right Way

Vinyl Tile is still one of the best floor coverings to choose for kitchens and bathrooms. Ceramic tile is great, but the cost to have a professional install it can be prohibitive. The answer, vinyl tiles installed by you. You will save a lot of money you can use toward other home improvements you want to do.

Vinyl tile is also a great choice for other reasons. There are some beautiful choices of both style and color. There are so many different patterns and colors to choose from that you will want to take your time in choosing something that will enhance the beauty of your kitchen or bathroom.

In addition to that, vinyl tile is much better than linoleum for practical reasons. With a linoleum floor, one accident and the whole floor is ruined basically, because it is all one piece. When you buy vinyl tile, you buy extra squares. If an accident ruins one or two tiles, you replace them.

In this article I will help you learn how to install your own vinyl tile floor with confidence. I?m going to teach you the old school way of laying this beautiful floor covering. I call it old school, because I learned from tile layers that had been doing it for years before I started.

First, we need to start with the basics. I don?t know what is on the floor where you plan to put down vinyl tile, so I?m going to show you what our preparation goals are. We want a nice smooth surface to lay our vinyl tile on.

Some people will tile over existing tile. This can be okay, but it is not the preferred choice. To do this right, you need to remove whatever flooring is there now, until you are down to either a smooth cement or wooden surface.

If there are cracks and valleys or unleveled surfaces, they need to be filled and smoothed out before we can start laying your vinyl tile. On cement or wooden surfaces, you can use cement to fill in and smooth the surface. You can also install plywood over the existing floor to achieve the surface your vinyl tile needs. You caulk in all the joints after installing the plywood. You can use Durok as well.

The goal, as I said before, is to have a smooth surface before you begin to lay vinyl tile. Otherwise, your tile will crack wherever pressure is placed on the tile over existing rough areas.

Now, buying the vinyl tile you want is next. There is self-adhesive vinyl tile that is very inexpensive. However, remember you get what you pay for. The adhesive on these tiles is not of great quality and you will be replacing them often. They are usually very thin as well, so they are easily damaged.

The thicker the vinyl tile, the more expensive and durable it is. That is the rule of thumb. Choose vinyl tile that has about 1/8? thickness or above and you will have a floor that will last a long time. So choose your style and color wisely. It will be with you awhile.

Now, the tools you will need are next. You will not need a tile cutter. That isn?t the old school method. Using a tile cutter is tedious and slow, and your edges will never be tight. You will need a good razor knife, a small butane torch, a trowel with teeth along one edge for applying the adhesive, some old rags, and some mineral spirits.

A lot of experts will tell you to always begin in the center of the room when laying any kind of tile. However with kitchens and bathrooms, this is not always or even often the best method. Starting at one wall and working toward your cabinets is much better, because most of your tiles that need to be cut will be under the edge of the cabinets and not seen.

Starting along one wall, trowel on your adhesive, making sure there are ridges by using the toothed edge of your trowel. Do not go too far away from the wall as you will be laying tile there and don?t want to have to reach while doing so.

Let the adhesive dry for about 15 minutes so it?s very sticky. Lay your first tile at the corner and continue to lay a row, making sure you keep your tiles aligned. As you get to the end of your row, do not worry about the area that is left over where a whole tile will not fit in. We will take care of that last. However, remove the adhesive from that area so it won?t dry before we get back to it.

The adhesive you applied should have gone just a little further out than the row of tile itself, so now you have a row, with a little adhesive area waiting for the next row.

Now start back at the beginning. Apply a little more than a row?s width of adhesive, let it dry, then lay another row of tile, again making sure you align the tiles with each other so your lines are straight..

Once you have done the entire floor except those areas where a whole tile would not fit in, let the floor dry until tomorrow. Do not allow anyone to walk on the floor. The adhesive takes time to dry.

Now, once the adhesive is dry, we are ready to do the cutting in portion of your vinyl tile job. You should be able to walk carefully on the tiles without moving them by now. If not, you may have used too much adhesive and will have to wait longer, until you are sure it is dry.

Now, let?s cut it in. Go to where your first row that ended with a little space left over. Apply some adhesive to that area, plus on the floor, along the wall where you are going to put in your cut pieces of vinyl tile. Let that dry, just as you did before for 15 minutes.

Now, take a full vinyl tile, matching it up with your tiles already on the floor at the bottom, lean it at an angle to the wall. Let me explain so you are sure to understand. You place the tile against the edge of the last tile in the row as if you were about to lay it down, but just let it lean against the wall at whatever angle it has to.

Now, you will need your razor knife and your small butane torch. Be careful with the little torch that you don?t burn anything, please. If you are not comfortable with handling a small torch, this method is not for you.

Place the fingers of one hand on the top of the tile along the wall with very slight downward pressure. Wave the flame of the torch back and forth across the center of the tile about where you would like it to bend. Don?t let the flame linger on the tile to melt it. Keep a distance so it only gets heated up.

As it gets hot, the pressure from your fingers will begin to push the vinyl tile downward, bending it into place. As soon as the tile is bent to the point where it is flat against the floor and the rest against the wall, set down your torch, pointing it carefully away from anything or anyone, and take your razor knife and cut along the bend right at the wall. It will cut like butter.

Now that tile fits perfectly to the contour of the wall. It also, because of the light pressure you applied as you pressed it down, has tightened up that entire row, so the vinyl tiles will not separate later. This is a floor that will last a long time and answers the problem of the tiles separating later.

Continue that same process for each row and everywhere the tiles need to be cut in. Then clean up. You are now an old school master at laying vinyl tile!

One last warning, as I said before, if you are not comfortable using flame, you should go ahead and use a tile cutter. It may not be as tight, but you can still do a good job with it without endangering yourself. This article was intended to pass on an old school method I learned and have used to lay many beautiful tile floors that lasted for years. I hope that by passing it onto you, the old way will not be lost.

D. David Dugan has a website, http://homeimprovement.divinfo.com to help homeowners find all the information they need about remodeling, home repair, building decks and carports, room additions, and more. He also actively participates in an article directory at http://www.articlemotron.com that has current and up to date information on many topics.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Painting the Woodwork

Painting the woodwork. Ho hum. By woodwork I am referring to the skirting, the window and door frames (inside) and the doors.

All of these areas will probaly need preparation. By preparation I mean the following:

Remove nails and bits sticking out, whatever they are. Fill in any holes or cracks with a good quality filler, let it dry and sand it smooth. Rub down doors with a solution of sugar soap and water, or hot water and washing up liquid if you don't have sugar soap. Make 'em clean basically.

Vacumm. Yes vacuum all your dust and bits so they are totally gone. There is NOTHING in the world of decorating more infuriating than seeing bits of stuff all over your newly-glossed woodwork. o vacuum. If you can't use a vacuum cleaner, ask your other half. She'll know. If she doesn't, you probably won't be civilised enough to do painting. Watch telly instead.

Using a one-inch, a one-and-a-half-inch or even (max) a two-inch paintbrush, apply a good, full coating of acrylic primer undercoat (dries fast) to all woodwork, using smooth, even strokes. Do all the woodwork except the actual door. We'll come to this in a minute.

When it's dry (one hour on a warm day) do exactly the same with your top coat, which will probably be a white gloss. Smooth even strokes remember. Use enough paint to put a good coat on, but if it's running after a few seconds, you're using too much. In fact, why not use something like Crown Non-Drip-one-coat? A fantastic product. Can't go wrong with it.

When it's done. Leave it alone, don't mess with it. any touching up can be done when it's dry (about five hours in a warm room or whatever it says on the can).

The door is another matter. I prefer to use a mini foam roller and a mini roller tray and put several coats on. That applies to primer/undercoat and the gloss. Use a different roller for different paints of course. Throw the rollers away when you're done. Wrap the gloss roller up in a plastic bag between coats. You'll probaly need three coats of gloss because it doesn't go on too thick, but does give a nice finish.

That's it!

Keep the kids and the cat and the dog away until it's dry.

Stephen Kaye is an Author and Businessman living in Devon, UK. He is a professional Decorator and offers for sale his manual 'How To Set Up And Run Your Own Painting And Decorating Business' for ?29.50. It is available in .pdf, on CD, or in hard copy. contact him at kaye.steve@gmail.com for more info or visit http://www.tradeworldhq.com/decorating

Monday, December 15, 2008

Sauna Rooms For Greater Health Homes and Happiness

Adding a sauna room to your home can help your health and personal finances.

Indeed, many health benefits have been attributed to regular sauna bathing, including improved blood circulation, improved lung function, and strengthened immunity to illness. A study by the British Medical Association found that people who take sauna baths two or three times a week reduce their incidence of colds and flu by more than 65 percent. Imagine the impact that could have on your own life: fewer visits to the doctor and pharmacy, and fewer days away from work spent feeling worried, run down, and just plain miserable.

Even if a health insurance plan covers your medical expenses, a sauna room in your home can still save and even earn you a considerable amount of money. If you already enjoy the benefits of sauna bathing at a local health club, gym or spa, calculate what you would save in usage fees and gas expenses if you stayed at home to sauna.

Also worthy of consideration is the extra money a sauna room could provide you if and when you decide to sell your home. Often perceived as luxury items by real estate agents, special features such as indoor saunas typically help to increase the resale values of homes. Yes, there will always be an initial investment attached to the addition of a sauna room, but the potential payoffs will more than make up for it.

Remember that an indoor sauna room doesn?t have to be the same size as your living room or family room. Many people choose to transform just a portion of their bedroom, bathroom or basement into a sauna room. After all, the smaller your sauna room is, the more efficiently you will be able to heat it.

For practical purposes, however, you don?t want your indoor sauna room to be too small. You?ll need to have enough space in your sauna room to be able to move around freely, lie down on the sauna benches, and share your sauna comfortably with family and friends. Ultimately, the decisions on size and other aspects of design are yours to make, as your indoor sauna room can be fully customized to reflect your unique personality and preferences.

And with the popular option of do-it-yourself sauna kits, you can be as involved in the sauna building process as you choose to be. Once you decide on the size and features of your sauna room, finding and assembling a DIY sauna kit should be relatively easy. Don?t be intimidated if you don?t possess any previous sauna building experience; the do-it-yourself sauna kits contain the pre-cut materials and detailed instructions needed to assist even the most apprehensive first-timer.

Whatever steps you take to add a sauna room to your home, do not ignore the importance of home sauna accessories. Sauna accessories like cedar headrests and backrests, loofah sponges and sauna fragrances can constitute the difference between a sauna bath experience that true sauna enthusiasts would judge as being mediocre and one that is superbly relaxing, refreshing and remarkable.

For its proven positive impact on human health and happiness, an indoor sauna room should be regarded as a necessity for anyone who owns a home.

Pertti Olavi Jalasjaa is the Finnish-born author of ?The Art of Sauna Building,? an acclaimed reference book on sauna construction. He is also the general manager of Great Saunas, which has been manufacturing and selling high-quality saunas and sauna kits to sauna enthusiasts around the world since 1974. Visit Great Saunas online at http://www.greatsaunas.com.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Do It Yourself Home Security

Proper and safe home security doesn't have to involve hiring a professional to install the most up-to-date security system on the market. There are numerous DIY home security options out there; you just need to be familiar with them and choose what precautions you should take to keep you, your home, and your family safe. DIY home security involves everything from teaching your children what to do when at home alone to installing a state-of-the-art, DIY home security alarm that allows the homeowner to perform the installation and set up.

DIY Home Security Basics
Homeowners often overlook simple, yet effective, DIY home security projects. If a home looks difficult to break into or a burglar believes there is a good chance of getting caught, he will usually bypass that home and move on to another. The most important aspect of home security is creating an atmosphere that isn't conducive to a burglar being able to enter your home. The following DIY home security projects create this type of environment. Install exterior lights and include either a timer or a motion detector, Secure all exterior doors and windows with well-built, steadfast locks and Trim back trees and shrubs in your yard, especially around windows and doors. These do it yourself home security tasks are easy and fast projects, yet they offer you and your family paramount security.

DIY Home Security Systems
Installing a DIY home security system is a bit more difficult and time-consuming than replacing locks and adding a few lights. Before taking on this task, you need to be prepared to spend some time and money, but the advantages are well worth the costs. DIY home security systems are usually wireless and can cost as little as $100 or as much as several thousand dollars. Installing a DIY home security system in your home offers a wide range of benefits. DIY Upgrades, Mobility, Ease of Use and No-Cost Installation. Just as hardwired, professionally installed home security systems can be fit with many different accessories to meet your individual security needs, so can DIY home security systems. The majority of DIY home security systems come with a basic keypad, control panel, and window/door contacts, but the list of accessories available for purchase is virtually endless. Some of the most commonly purchased.

Additions are: Sirens, Strobe Lights, Motion Detectors, Surveillance Cameras, Smoke Detectors and Glass Break Detectors.

Integrating these accessories into your DIY home security system is an easy process, and tailoring your system to fit your needs is extremely important. DIY home security systems also allow you to upgrade your system as needed; as technology advances and the needs of your family change, you can easily install the additional security accessories you feel necessary. From the most menial tasks such as trimming trees to the more advanced job of installing an entire home security system, Do it yourself home security is a great way to ensure your safety.

Ralph Winn writes about Home Security and other related topics. For more information visit http://www.home-security-systems.net

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Standby Generators Security & Comfort

With the hurricane season upon us, coupled with the increased abundance of tornadoes that have spawned over the last few years and the general shortage of electrical power on the grid, more and more home owners are considering the installation of a stand-by electrical generator to provide emergency power in the event of an electrical power outage.

Stand-by generators provide security and a level of comfort in the event of a utility power failure. They can maintain indoor climate, provide lighting, keep food from spoiling and allow a family to function.

Stand-by generators differ from portable generators in that they are permanently installed and have a permanent connection to a fuel source, either propane or natural gas. Diesel powered stand-by generators are available, but as a general statement they are designed for commercial installations and provide more power than a typical home would require.

I generally recommend the use of propane over natural gas to power stand-by generators. The reason that I recommend propane is that the fuel storage is self contained on the home owner?s property. Although this is more expensive (the cost of the tank and its installation), than connecting directly to a natural gas pipeline, it provides much better electric power security. In many cases, especially disasters caused by hurricanes and tornadoes, natural gas pipelines are shut down to avoid fires and explosions in the damaged areas. Having a stand-by generator without a fuel source, doesn?t accomplish anything.

The majority of stand-by generators are installed so that when a utility power failure occurs, the stand-by generator will start automatically, switch all or a portion of the home load to the generator circuits and when utility power is restored the generator will turn-off and restore the load to its normal position.

For additional information on stand-by generators for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Holiday Pretty Packages With All The Trimmings

Pretty Packages with all the trimmings; Gifts trimmed with flair

Skill: Easy. Materials & tools:

Assorted paper remnants, rice paper, plain coloured papers Scissors Glue gun and sticks Double-face tape and regular adhesive tape Ribbons in assorted colours, widths and styles Assorted findings: custom jewellery, belt buckles, quilling paper strips, feathers, sequins, tinsel garland, wire, beads etc. Fabric remnants, fun fur, taffeta, fuzzy wool, scrapbooking tools, snowflake punch, decorative edge scissors, hang tags, rub-on lettering Also see each gift wrapping description. (Materials for this project are available at arts and craft stores.)

My favourite part of the holidays is wrapping the gifts. It is the perfect occasion to use up many remnants from various projects and to let my creativity run loose, just for fun. Since my wrapping room is shared with the laundry room, it is a sure place to find some peace of mind during all the craziness of the holidays.

Minimalist with a touch of Ritz, great gift wrapping ideas start with cool findings. The secret to achieve the look of these French bonbon gift wrappings is all in the trimmings. Personalized to make an impact, even simple gifts can look elegant with a little accent. Don?t be afraid to extend the colour palette beyond the traditional; it?s all good because, really, anything goes. Even though I used assorted colour combinations of bright turquoise, greens and blues with soft pastels amidst accents of silver, angelic whites and chocolate brown, the theme is what brings everything together.

Fuzzy wool for a cozy warm feeling: Super easy yet stylish. Once a gift is wrapped, affix one or two ribbons around the box and then wrap a few lengths of fuzzy wool as decorative trim around the package. Assorted fancy yarns provide an inexpensive and chic way to dress up bonbon or cracker-shaped gifts.

Rows of ribbons: Create basic plaid patterns using satin, grosgrain and velvet types of ribbons in assorted colours and widths over a tissue-paper wrapped gift. Garnish with dash of white tinsel garland. A length of wide satin ribbon looks stunning when applied over the centre of larger gifts and plain paper bags. Secure the ribbons at the back of a package using hot glue. Wide ribbons can also be adorned with lengths of fuzzy wool.

Bejewel using recycled jewellery and belt buckles: Recycle odds and ends jewellery pieces, earrings, and charms. Glue these onto a ribbon to create an elegant centre ornament. Paint plain or wooden buckles silver or gold (or any colour) and fasten a length of ribbon around a fabric-wrapped gift. Top it all off with a single feather.

Dazzling with sequins: Make your gifts sparkle and dazzle with sequins. Use by-the-yard sequins as you would ribbons. Double rows of brightly coloured sequins look spectacular onto plain silver-wrapped gifts. Further embellish by randomly gluing individual sequins on wrapped presents.

Quilling for snowman: Quilling, also known as paper filigree, is the art of rolling thin strips of paper into different shapes and using the shapes to form designs. Quilling papers comes in packages of assorted colours. Creative accents, such as plain snowman shapes or monograms, can be crafted to garnish plainly wrapped boxes. Affix designs to gifts using double-face tape. You can even apply the papers in flat strips or fashion a checked pattern. Simple swirls make wonderful gift garnishes. Cut-it-out with paper snowflakes: So easy to make and yet so enchanting. They make magical trimmings onto gifts, in assorted sizes. Just cut snowflake shapes using scissors with folded plain or assorted types of recycled papers. You can even have the kids help you out with this one. Paper garlands can be quite stunning too.

Punched snowflakes: Paper punches with holiday designs are wonderful to use and incorporate into gift trimming. Using a snowflake design punch and assorted papers, from velum to silver, punch out snowflake shapes and glue them onto gifts, ribbons and cards, in a row or randomly. I even used the punched out negative to make decorative bands around gift boxes, and trimmed the edges with decorative scissors.

Monograms letters: Letters, initials make delightful gift topping accents and can be shaped with wire of various colours or beaded wires.

Fabric remnants: Excellent for wrapping larger gifts, and to use up fabrics that you know you won?t use within the next year or so. I utilized fun-fur remnants to make a snowman decoration onto a larger gift box. Hang-tags embellished with rub-on decal lettering, clip art, micro beads and photos of the gift recipient also make fantastic gift trimmings.

Get wrapping and happy trimmings!

Tips: For all gifts wrapped using fabrics, make sure to iron out any creases out first and wrap the gifts as you would with paper wrapping. Use hot glue to secure the folds instead of tape.

Variations: Other creative gift wrappings include holiday dishtowels, table cloths, fabrics, and wallpaper. Or, you can opt to make the wrapping part of the gifts using a variety of household and clothing items.

Older Christmas tree ornaments that you are no longer using also make fun gift toppings.

Don?t be bashful to use colours such as lime green, hot pink, bright orange, mauves, vibrant turquoise and blue; They are very ?in? and trendy colours this season.

Pretty packages can be integrated into your table decorations, to grace a mantel, or even used outdoors. Double them up and use as name card holders.

Copyright MaddyLane Designs ? 2006 maddy@maddylane.com

Madeleine better known as Maddy is an artist and freelance d?cor designer/stylist with 25 years designing experience and many creative ventures to her credit. Maddy is the force and soul of MaddyLane Designs. From her Hudson home studio workshop, she creates innovative, savvy yet accessible DIY home decorative projects for her trade clientele and her syndicated column.

Her DIY d?cor projects are published weekly in the Wednesday edition of the Montreal Gazette in the Art & Life section. Her work is also featured in Canadian magazines. Her various projects advocate the latest in home decorating trends. Her innovative contributions also extend to demonstrations and lectures at trade shows and special events. Maddy?s creativity goes beyond current lifestyle trends, inspiring people to transform ordinary every-day objects into trendy decorative accents for the home. Her inventive passion started at an early age, and when on to work as a fashion designer and illustrator for many years. Her artistic touch has also graced children?s books, unique giftware products, Christmas decorations

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Consider Geothermal For Your New Home Heating System!

One thing is for sure energy prices are going to continue to rise. If you are considering replacing your heating and cooling systems or if you are building a new home then you should consider the advantages of using geothermal! One of the most energy efficient methods of heating and cooling your home is to use a geothermal heat exchanger.

Some geothermal systems even provide hot water for your home.

Geothermal heating and cooling is not science fiction, it is a proven method of supplying heating and cooling and its acceptance, and installation is growing daily. Savings on yearly energy bills can be as much as 60 percent. In the US, the federal government and many states are providing tax incentives and credits if you install a geothermal HVAC system. Other countries including Canada also have incentive programs. Check out your local electrical utility or government website.

How does it work?

It uses technologies that have been around for many years - pumps and heat exchangers. A well is drilled on your property. The water from the well is pumped through a heat exchanger in your home where a portion of the latent heat in that water is removed and used to heat your home. In the summer, as the water temperature is cooler than the outside air the system provides air conditioning to your home. In climates where temperatures fall below 0 degrees, supplemental heating using gas, electricity, or fuel oil may be incorporated into the system.

Electricity is used to power the pump and the circulation fans. There is no cost to the homeowner for the actual heat. No gas or fuel oil is consumed.

A geothermal system is not only cost beneficial, it is very environmentally friendly and it conserves our precious fossil fuels.

Interested?

For additional information on geothermal heating and cooling systems, follow the link.

For additional information on geothermal HVAC systems for your home or for information on other home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Friday, December 5, 2008

Incorporate A Water Feature In Your Landscaping

A water feature placed strategically in a landscape or garden provides a dynamic element to what is usually a static design. Water elements provide tranquility and a sense of calm. The sound and visual effects provided by flowing water are known for their soothing and stress relieving qualities. As a side benefit water features have been known to increase property values by as much as 10%.

Water features can be as simplistic as a statue acting as a fountain to highly complex designs that mimic natural features with multiple terraces and water cascading over a rock bed. Water flow can be slow or swift, with the feature used as a background or as the predominant design element. Only your imagination and budget control the final appearance.

Attract wildlife, from an abundance of birds to squirrels and chipmunks and depending on the location of your property larger animals such as deer. Depending on your climate adding fish to ponds and streams enhances the overall water feature.

The addition of a water feature allows you to dramatically expand the types of plants and flora that can be incorporated into your landscaping.

Many individuals hesitate when considering adding a water feature because of they feel that they are complex to install and require a great deal of maintenance. The complexity of the installation is relative to how dramatic the water feature is and the level of maintenance is relative to the initial investment in the quality of the pumping, aeration and filtration equipment installed.

In the past it was necessary to buy numerous components for your water feature and hope that all the different pieces of equipment were compatible with one another. Now many manufactures are supplying complete kits that contain all of the necessary pumps, filters, aerators, piping and connectors to ensure that all of the pieces of hardware work in conjunction with one another.

Once you have determined that you are going to install a water feature within your landscaping check with your municipal building department for any special requirements and if a permit is required. Remember that water features are difficult to relocate and usually expensive to modify. Planning is the key to success.

For additional information on landscaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Create Canvas Art Works from Your Kids Paintings Drawings! Under $20

Do you have boxes and boxes of your kid?s paintings, drawings, scribbles etc, stored away because you just can?t part with them and don?t know what to do with them? Well here is your solution - Create a canvas wall art collage that?s original, creative, cheap to make, and a fun activity that you and the kids can enjoy together. They also make great Christmas presents from the kids to the Grandparents ? A guaranteed winner your kids will be proud of.

The basic idea is to glue your kid?s art directly onto the framed canvas in an overlapping collage style, similar to the method you use for decoupage or making paper mache items. All items you?ll need can be found at any $2 bargain store. This is the best way to keep the costs low; however you?ll also get all you need from an art supply store. Canvas sizes vary so just get one that will suit the wall you want to hang it on, and some smaller ones to keep as future presents.

What you need ?

  • A large ready framed canvas and some spare smaller ones for leftover art (available from any $2 bargain store or art supply store).
  • A bottle of white PVA or woodwork glue.
  • A packet of mixed size foam brushes (bristle brushes are fine if you already have them).
  • A pair of scissors.
  • A collection of your kids? paper artwork.
  • An old bed sheet or plastic sheet (do not use newspaper as this will stick to the canvas).

Let?s Start ?

  • Get a large plastic bowl and squeeze into it approximately one cup of glue and half a cup of water, mix thoroughly.
  • If necessary cut off the excess blank areas of paper on each of your child?s artwork, this will reduce bulk.
  • Lay the canvas onto your sheet or plastic. Using a large brush apply a thick layer of the glue mix all over the canvas, including the sides.
  • Begin laying the sheets of artwork randomly or orderly if you prefer, onto the canvas.
  • Make sure to overlap each layer as you go, and brush each piece down with the brush so it sticks. Continue this until the canvas is completely covered with your child?s art.
  • Apply another layer of glue all over the canvas and allow to dry for one hour in the sun, or two hours indoors.
  • When the canvas is dry check to make sure all the layers of artwork are glued down and edges are lifting up. If they are then apply more glue under the lift piece and again over the top.
  • Apply a final coat of glue all over the canvas, remembering to paint the sides as well. Allow to dry completely again, but this time indoors or in the shade outside.
  • When the canvas is dry it?s ready to hang in your kids? room, or anywhere in the house. A great idea is to hang it somewhere at work where you can be reminded all day long of just how wonderful and clever your kids are!

    If you have any artwork left over, make another one with smaller canvas? you bought and give them away to family as presents ? they?ll love it!

    To see a finished example of the artwork click here http://makinartworx.com/ezinearticlesimages.html

    Monique Arrighi is an Australian artist, photographer and the proprietor of MakinArtworx.com. At Makin Artworx they digitally create contemporary & original WINDOW ART BLINDS and CANVAS ART from your photos and theirs. Window Art Blinds are pull down blinds with their artwork or your photos printed on them. All blinds are custom made to your window size and are available in a see through mesh or block-out style fabric.

    Please visit the website to view the Window Art Blinds & Canvas Art, or to subscribe to their Art & Decorating Ezine ?

    http://www.makinartworx.com

    Monday, December 1, 2008

    Pedestal Sink Installation Made Easy

    TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

    Level
    Drill with assorted bits
    9/16 wrench
    Tape measure
    Framing square
    Channel lock pliers

    Some notes before you begin:

    1) Observe all local plumbing and building codes.
    2) Prior to installation, unpack the new lavatory and inspect it for damage. Return the lavatory to its protective carton until you are ready to install it.
    3) These instructions are for installing the lavatory to wood frame construction. For other installations, supply suitable bracing and fastening devices of sufficient size and strength.
    4) The walls and floor must be square, plumb, and level.

    Pedestal Sink Installation Instructions

    Step One:

    1) Rough-in the supplies and drain piping Note: The supply stop handles cannot extend more than 3? from the finish wall when in the open position.
    2) Install sufficient backing behind the finish wall to provide a secure material for the anchoring devices.
    3) Apply two self-adhesive gaskets (provided) to each of the three ridges in the bottom recess of the lavatory.

    Tips to Remember

    1) Lavatory selection: When replacing a pedestal lavatory, keep in mind, beyond color and style, additional criteria in selecting the piece for your bathroom or powder room.
    2) The unit may expose wall and floor imperfections, which may complicate the installation.
    3) If you do not want anything touching the floor or an easier to clean system, try a shrouded lav, they are as sturdy as the pedestal lav and give a nice open look to the room.

    Step Two:

    1) Mark the centerline on the floor.
    2) Position the pedestal on the floor centerline.
    3) Carefully set the lavatory on the pedestal.
    4) Move the pedestal as required to ensure proper fit in the desired location.
    5) Level the lavatory. Add more self-adhesive gaskets as needed to level the lavatory. Note: The lavatory must be supported by the pedestal.
    6) Check the lavatory placement.
    7) Mark the center of each anchoring hole on the wall, and mark the floor through the hole in the pedestal bottom.
    8) Carefully remove the lavatory from the pedestal. Then move the pedestal from the area.

    Faucet selection: The faucet will require proper clearance between the stopper level and the wall.

    Step Three:

    1) Drill a ?? mounting hole at the mark on the floor, then drill two ?? hanger bolt holes at the marks on the wall.
    2) Mount hanger bolts to the wall so approximately 1-1/4? of each bolt remains exposed. Note: other fastening devices of sufficient size and strength may also be used.
    3) Install the faucet and drain to the lavatory according to the manufacturer?s instructions. Note: Do not fully tighten slip-joint drain connections at this time.

    Existing hardware: With pedestal sink lavatories, wall mounted, or shrouded lavatories, you will have a substantial amount of supply and drainage hardware exposed to sight. Make sure your P-trap, supply lines, and valves are acceptable for the appearance. This is a perfect time to change and upgrade.

    Before installation: When you open the box(es), you will want to do a quick check to make sure all the parts are included. There will be a parts check list in your instruction booklet.

    You will want to install the faucet and drain onto the lavatory top before you install the top. It is easier to work with at this point and the two pieces don?t add too much weight.

    Step Four:

    1) Position the pedestal mounting hole over the hole in the floor.
    2) Secure the pedestal to the floor with the wood screw and washer. Tighten the wood screw until it is snug.
    Caution! Risk of product damage: Do not overtighten. Overtightening the wood screw may cause damage to the product.

    Step 5:

    1) Set the lavatory on the pedestal so the hanger bolts extend through the lavatory holes.
    2) Level the lavatory.
    3) Install the cap nuts and washers, and tighten until snug. Caution! Risk of product damage: Do not overtighten the cap nuts. Overtightening may cause damage to the product.
    4) Connect and tighten the trap. Connect the hot and cold water supplies to the faucet.

    Installation tips: If available, the installation is much easier with two people. Some of these lavatories are very heavy and can be cumbersome to move around. The most important time for help is when you are putting the lavatory onto the mounting hardware and lining up the P-trap at the same time. It is great to have someone lifting and placing while the other is lining up the pipes.

    Installing the legs into the wall is a relatively simple job. However, when screwing in from the threaded side, put a threaded rod connector over the threads to protect them (another option is to use multiple nuts). This will make a much easier time of tightening the nuts while holding up the lav top.

    Kevin Campbell is the owner of Employee Wholesale Direct. Employee Wholesale Direct is where you receive the full advantage of purchasing thousands of home remodeling products at true wholesale prices. Buy brand name discount faucets, discount sinks, discount toilets, tankless toilets, pedestal sinks, and much more. EWDIR can be found online at http://www.ewdir.com

    Saturday, November 29, 2008

    Let's Talk Laminate Flooring!

    The first point that must be made is that Laminate Flooring and Hardwood Flooring only have one thing in common ? they are both flooring products. Laminate is as dissimilar to hardwood as ceramic tile is to cork. Laminate flooring is now sold with a ceramic tile appearance. It is not ceramic tile!

    The fact that it is not hardwood flooring or ceramic flooring, does not make it an unacceptable product it only makes it a different product.

    Laminate flooring was first introduced as Pergo (a trademark), and it was immediately accepted as a new, relatively inexpensive, and easy to maintain flooring product. However, there was a great deal of confusion about where the product could and couldn?t be used, its longevity, and overall limitations.

    With the acceptance of Pergo, innovations on the successful flooring soon appeared in the market. The new product, often referred to as the ?glue-less installation system? created more questions and confusion then its predecessor, Pergo did when it first entered the market. The glue-less installation system is sold and marketed under a variety of nomenclature - snap together, click together and interlocking, depending on the manufacturer.

    A flooring material that doesn?t require glue was no less than a brilliant concept. It is the home handyman?s dream, come true. You simple cut the flooring pieces to length, join the pieces together and you have an instantaneous floor that you can walk on and replace the furniture on, immediately after completion. No toxic glue smell, no sanding, no grouting, no sealing. It provides the same satisfaction and attributes for adults as Lego does for children (or for us older individuals ? mini bricks)

    Although every manufacturer has coined a phrase to describe their locking mechanism, there are really only two different methods. Chose the method along with the pattern and durability and you have made the decision on which product to purchase.

    Snap Together

    Utilizing a tongue and groove assembly methodology, the snap together floor is lined up horizontally and then using a mallet, it is tapped together to create a bond to the previous piece. It is the easiest floor to assemble, but it can only be assembled once and it cannot be taken apart to replace sections.

    Snap together floors usually have a lower overall quality than you will find in a click together floor.

    Click Together

    Although click together floors use a tongue and groove, they have been modified to create a lock when they are inserted into each other. The tongue, on the long side of the piece of flooring is inserted into the groove at an angle and then lowered to a flat plain. Minimal tapping at the end joints locks all the pieces together. The flooring can be taken apart and put back together again. This provides the advantage of being able to replace damaged sections.

    Although the method of interlocking sections of flooring together is important, the core material is what creates the quality of the laminate flooring. Without a high quality, solid core the locking system will fail, break of be compromised over time. Softer cores are much more prone to damage by liquids than solid cores are.

    As with most products and projects knowledge is the key to success. Investigate before you buy!

    For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

    Thursday, November 27, 2008

    Installing Laminate Flooring Dos and Don'ts!

    Every manufacturer of laminate flooring provides very specific instructions on the proper method of installing their product.

    There are however, some common dos and don?ts that apply to the installation of any laminate floor. Surprisingly many people ignore these instructions, believing that they know better than the manufacturers.

    • Laminate flooring must acclimatize to your home. This is done by placing the boxes in the room where you are going to install the laminate for a minimum period of 48 to 72 hours. Failure to do this will cause floors to buckle. This is the number one mistake made by most people including contractors.
    • There must be a gap between walls and any other obstacle, (columns, stair risers, heat vents, etc.) of between 5/16 and 1/2 depending on the manufacturer. This allows for the expansion of the floor. If a gap is not left, the floor will buckle.
    • If the laminate flooring is going to be installed on a concrete slab floor where there is earth below the concrete, a vapor barrier must be placed between the concrete and the laminate. The seams should be taped with a moisture resistant tape. Laminate flooring should not be installed on any floor that has a drain.
    • Some manufacturers will allow the installation of laminate flooring on carpet. The carpet should be a hard twist (Berber), or a very low pile (commercial carpet). If the underlayment is spongy, the flooring will separate when walked on.
    • The smallest piece of flooring should never be less than 8 inches long and the width should never be less than 2 inches. Measure your room before you start the installation as it may be necessary to cut the first board in length and the first row of boards in width to avoid having small pieces.
    • Joints should be staggered a minimum of 16 inches apart and a minimum of 3 rows for repeating of the joint.
    • If installing base board or quarter round on top of the laminate, do not nail through the laminate. A laminate floor must be allowed to expand and contract.
    • Repair any and all squeaks and soft spots in the sub-floor before installing the laminate. Laminate flooring will not correct squeak or soft spot problems.
    • Do not continue the installation of laminate flooring through a doorway that is less than 48 inches in width, use a transition molding.
    • Do not hammer on the groove end on the board ? ever!
    • Always start the installation of the laminate flooring with the groove side and end towards the walls.
    • Always use a tapping block to help tighten joints, but do not over hammer or you will damage the surface of the laminate at the joints.
    • Floors must be level, no more than 3/16? slope over a ten foot span.
    • Floors must be flat. Any dips in the floor should be filled in with self-leveling compound and left to dry at least 72 hours.

    Read and follow the manufacturer?s instructions and you will end up with a quality floor that will last for years.

    For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

    Tuesday, November 25, 2008

    DoItYourself Concerns

    If one were to watch some of the Kitchen or Bathroom Renovation shows on the DIY Network, one would be likely to see many homeowners who are doing part or most of the work themselves in order to save money.

    And that show makes it look very easy to do. But it's usually not.

    Many contractors will get requests from homeowners who ask if they can do some of the work during a renovation project, like demolition or painting. Some even want to do framing and drywall work, ahead of time, to save money. And it's not that some people don't have the ability to do things, but I worry that a lot of homeowners believe they can do more than they really can.

    There are some things that homeowners should be aware of if they decide to help out during their renovation.

    - If you do your own demolition or installation work, and you haven't factored in other work that needs to be done first, you could end up spending more money to get it all corrected (they may have to reinstall something or remove your installation to fix the problem or get an inspection.)

    - If you have to call or meet with your contractor to ask for help, discuss methods or get advice, your contractor might (and probably should) charge you for his or her valuable expertise and time. Talk about it before you get your advice to find out if it will end up on your final invoice.

    - If you are prepared to do a job on the site, you'll be treated like any other subcontractor and you'll be expected to do the work on time and meet quality standards. If you're not happy with your lumpy, uneven ceiling because you installed the drywall yourself... you might have to blame yourself. Or pay to have it corrected.

    - If you are not available to be there when they need your work done, you could delay the timing and schedule of the job. You could end up losing a subcontractor who has to wait for you to complete your part of the job (because they'll move on to another jobsite) or you might have to pay them more to wait around.

    You never want to discourage handy do-it-yourselfers from helping out on the job, saving a little money, and being able to brag about their work. But talk to your general contractor and make sure you've got some of these concerns answered so that there are no surprises.

    Timothy K. Clark is the Director of Marketing for ConstructionDeal.com, a valuable website that matches Contractors with Property Owners for residential and commercial improvement, remodeling and repair projects. For more information, visit www.constructiondeal.com or call 866-663-4711

    Sunday, November 23, 2008

    What You Need To Know When Choosing An Exterior Door

    Exterior doors for your home come in a variety of materials, colors, and designs. New materials, such as vinyl have provided manufacturers with the ability to create exterior doors that need little maintenance, provide security, energy efficiency and add value to your home.

    The front door of a home greats your guests and its styling says a lot about the home owner.

    Wood

    Wood exterior doors are desirable for their natural beauty and structural strength. They are widely available in a number of different woods ranging from pine, oak, cedar, mahogany, and walnut. They do however require significant protection from the elements as well as regular maintenance. Manufacturers are required to treat wood with a preservative to help prevent rotting but ongoing maintenance is the only way to ensure that your wood exterior door lasts and performs.

    Steel

    Steel exterior doors are actually made from a combination of materials. The interior structural components (rails and stiles) are often wood, the inner core is filed with insulating foam and the outer skin is made of galvanized steel. The inner wood structure gives it stability and strength. The foam core provides good insulation and the steel skins are durable, resistant to warping or rotting and require little maintenance.

    Steel exterior doors can be painted any number of colors. They are also available with pre-finished PVC coatings that simulate a wood-grain finish.

    Fiberglass

    Fiberglass exterior doors are relatively new and are constructed in the same fashion as steel exterior doors with wood stiles and rails and an inner core of injected foam. The outer skin is fiberglass. Fiberglass is very strong, durable and energy efficient. In addition to a flat painted surface, fiberglass can also be embossed to give it the texture and appearance of wood.

    Vinyl

    Vinyl exterior doors are also relatively new. They employ a multi-chambered vinyl structure for both the frames and panels (sashes) utilizing a steel, aluminum, or wood re-enforcement to add strength and prevent distortion. Vinyl doors are good thermal insulators because of their multi-chambered designs and offer good thermal performance ratings. Vinyl is a very durable material and is resistant to extreme weather conditions. It is also very resistant to breakage and provides good protection against forced entry through the door. Vinyl doors will not rust, dent or scratch, and require no special maintenance.

    For additional information on exterior doors for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

    Friday, November 21, 2008

    A Backyard Fire Pit Do It Yourself Today

    If you've been looking at buying a fire pit, then you're probably already aware that you can buy ready-made models that only require some simple assembly. But wouldn't it be nice to create your own fire pit? One that's uniquely yours? You don't need a complicated set of blueprints to build your own fire pit - you just need to have an idea in your head of what you're trying to create. It doesn't take a lot to build a fire pit for barbequing or an outdoor campfire. A DIY fire pit can cost next to nothing to construct, apart from some time and hard work, and is even cheaper if you already have some materials such as bricks or rocks on hand.

    The first step is to choose a safe location for your fire pit. Make sure it's nowhere near any structures that could catch fire, and locate it away from any backyard traffic zones. It's also worth talking to your local fire department in case you need to know any particular rules or information before starting. Organize to have some stones or bricks ready for lining the inside of your fire pit. Then all you need to do is dig the hole. This might take a few hours of hard work with a shovel, but that's all.

    Once your hole is deep enough, use the stones or bricks to line the perimeter of the hole, and continue these materials above the ground. You need the stones around the top to form a windbreak and to stop soil falling into the fire. If you want something a little fancier, you can build a stucco pit above the ground. Use magazines and the Internet to help give you lots of great ideas for your fire pit design. Think about your existing home and outdoor furniture, and design your fire pit to complement these existing elements in your backyard. If you're really stuck for ideas or want to create something a little more complicated, it's possible to order plans online that include a list of materials, and it's generally not very expensive.

    Now you have a fire pit, safety is always important. Remember, this is a big hole in the ground, and you don't want any accidents. So it might be a good idea to cover the pit when it's not being used. You can just use a piece of scrap metal or wooden board and cut it to fit. You can also choose to buy a basic fire pit, which will generally include the basics such as a cover, log grill and spark screen, and then build a brick or stone wall around that. This will help stop pets or children from running into the fire pit by accident.

    For a gas fire pit, you will need to buy either gas fire logs or a simple metal fire ring. Then you simply need to design and build the housing.

    Whatever you decided, it's great to do it yourself and have a fire pit that will be the envy of all your neighbors.

    If you want to read more about outdoor fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

    Wednesday, November 19, 2008

    Travertine Tile Flooring Classical Tile in the Modern Age

    Travertine tile is a durable and attractive natural stone in a class by itself. Famous structures like the Roman Coliseum stand as a tribute to the long-lasting nature of travertine as a building material. There are many installers and DIYers today who have used travertine tile as both flooring and as wall tile who will also sing its praises as a practical and uniquely decorative addition to their interiors and exteriors. So, travertine tile has been used and relied upon as tile for thousands of years, holding a place in the development of civilization from the Ancient Greeks, to the Roman Empire, and onto today?s modern age in equal measure. But what are some of the defining characteristics of travertine which sets it apart from other natural stone flooring and tile options?

    Origins of travertine

    Travertine is related to marble, actually falling somewhere between marble and limestone in terms of its development over thousands of years. Travertine is formed by subterranean springs, underground rivers, and other water sources. These water sources carry mineral elements such as calcium carbonate that build up over long periods of time in the same way stalactites and stalagmites in caves are formed. The resultant stone is a smooth and very hard substance further characterized by its porous surface. These pores are the result of gases escaping as the travertine is formed. By the time it is quarried, travertine is naturally beautiful ? a smooth, dense stone that exhibits a notable creamy color that evokes a certain old-world refinement. Commonly found in Italy and Turkey, travertine remains to be a popular import for construction products all over the world, including North America.

    Processing travertine tile

    Travertine is removed from the earth in large blocks before it is cut into what can be recognized as travertine tile. It may be cut in any of the following ways:

  • Cross-cut ? The travertine is cut with the grain of the stone bedding and on the same layer as it is formed in the earth. This makes for a more uniform texture and color
  • Vein cut ? the travertine is cut across several layers of the stone bedding, making for a more mottled, tiger-stripe effect when cut into tiles

  • After the travertine is quarried, it is strictly selected for color variances, and further assessed after it is cut for holes and chipped edges. Beyond the selection process, the travertine may be subject to any of the following processes

  • Honed ? the surface of the tile is sanded to create a matte finish
  • Tumbled ? the travertine is literally tumbled with gravel and bearings, giving it a rough-hewn, aged appearance.
  • Brushed ? a wire brush is used to give the surface of the travertine tile a worn, textured surface
  • Filled ? The pores in the travertine tile are filled with colored resin or cement to produce a pristine, solid surface
  • Polished ? the travertine is sanded and polished, producing a shiny look

  • Popular uses of travertine tile

    As old an option it is for a sturdy and reliable building material, travertine tile remains to be a highly diverse natural stone, suitable for all kinds of applications. Travertine was used in the ancient world, but can also be found as a major component of many modern buildings such as the Getty Centre in Los Angeles, and the UCLA medical centre. Travertine tile is used as floor tile in both residential and commercial settings, as well as a decorative option for wall cladding and backsplashes. Travertine tile has both indoor and outdoor uses, being a durable stone, and can be both functional and aesthetically striking. A featured design element of which anyone would find to be a source of pride, the popularity of travertine seems to be undiminished. In fact, it?s getting more popular!

    A selected travertine checklist:

  • Do your research! Ask questions of the experts ? the salespeople, local tile installers, owners of travertine tile, and other sources. They can help you make an informed purchase. Knowledge is the best means of achieving the results you want.

  • Consider where you wish to install your travertine tile; what kind of conditions will it need to be able to withstand? Foot traffic and moisture levels should be the most obvious considerations, as well as any spillage or staining problems that may arise from your young children or pets.

  • With the location in mind, think about the issue of finish. This should help you to choose the kind of finish that would be the most suitable. Tumbled or brushed travertine tile may answer the slip-resistance question. But honed or polished may meet your visual requirements. Weigh the pros and cons, always balancing visuals with practicality

  • Choose an appropriate sealer. This is an important step regardless of which type of travertine tile you choose. Consult the experts ? your local retailers of stone products can help with this ? on which products are best for your particular choice in travertine tile. As always, follow the instructions on any the labels of any products you do buy to make sure you get the results you?re after.

  • When you finally get your travertine, expect there to be slight color variances. Despite the fact that there has already been a selection process for color variation, travertine tile is still a natural product with varying degree of mineral deposits from tile to tile. But you can use this to your advantage. Open all boxes and try a dry run using all of the tiles in your batch. Be creative!

  • Read your warranty before you start your installation. Check for any broken tiles, take pictures if you have to, and work out any shipping issues with your seller before it?s too late to resolve them.

  • Travertine tile offers subtle yet rich tones to any interior or exterior, as well as a level of long-lasting durability which makes it a reliable material as well as a decorative one. A travertine tile installation links your interior or exterior with a architectural tradition that goes back thousands of years, as well a linking it to an ongoing tradition likely to last for thousands more!

    Rob Jones is Communications Coordinator with BuildDirect, a leading online wholesaler of building products. Rob writes articles for commercial contractors and DIYers on features, installation, and maintenance of building materials used in commercial and residential projects. These articles focus on materials such as flooring, decking, roofing, and siding, and other related topics.

    Monday, November 17, 2008

    Guide to Bathroom Design

    The first step is to plan the design ? as with kitchens, your local supplier will run off a computer-generated plan based on the room?s dimensions and your particular requirements.

    If you?re sticking with the same layout, measure your bathroom suite carefully before you go shopping for a replacement so that you know the new items will fit.

    Re-plumbing and re-wiring will push the cost up so stick with the existing service points if possible ? although this may be unavoidable if you want to change the position of the bathroom suite.

    First decide on the right place for the bath and/or shower. If your loo is in your bathroom, decide where this will go and then position the washbasin.

    Once the fittings are planned you can work out how to use the remaining space which, in modern bathrooms, may be quite limited. Some kind of storage, either cupboards or shelves ? preferably both ? is required for toiletries, cleaning products, toilet rolls and children?s bath toys. If your bathroom is spacious you may also keep clean towels and your linen basket in there.

    Choosing the bath and basin can be a time-consuming task. Even if you?re not opting for something like a jaccuzzi or indoor hot tub, baths come in all shapes and sizes ? standard oblong, rolltop, corner, curved, wider at one end than the other ? and colours. Unless you desperately yearn for a particular colour it?s best to stick with white. It?s clean-looking, inoffensive and will go with any colour you decide to use for paint and furnishings.

    Taps, too, come in a bewildering array of styles ? choose a design that will complement your bathroom.

    Before making your final decision on the bathroom suite it is helpful to check your plans with your plumber to see if there are any potential snags with the designs you have picked.

    Even if your window has frosted glass make sure you have a curtain or blind with ?blackout? lining unless you want neighbours or passers-by watching the silhouette of you bathing, washing or worse.

    When it comes to decoration, remember to use ? or specify, if someone else is doing the work ? grout that is resistant to steam and water. Similarly, choose paint and wallpaper that will stand up to heat and steam ? look in the ever-expanding ?kitchen and bathroom? ranges.

    Pale colours brighten a small bathroom, especially one with no natural daylight but it?s fun to experiment with colour. And a large mirror across one wall, especially the wall opposite the window, will help make a small bathroom look and feel much bigger and lighter.

    Floor coverings, too, come in all types of material and colour ? but avoid carpet which is impractical and unhygienic in a bathroom. Vinyl, cork tiles or lino are good choices ? warm underfoot and easy to clean. However, if the surface you choose is shiny always use a non-slip washable rug for extra safety.

    If you?re installing a shower ? either as a separate feature or above the bath ? investigate the different types before deciding which to choose. If you have high water pressure you could opt for a thermo shower which is connected direct to your heating system and keeps the water temperature even.

    An electric shower system heats the water itself and is mostly used above the bath. Power showers will give you the ultimate shower experience, even if you have low water pressure.

    Look for a non-slip surface in both bath and shower. Check with your plumber that the drainage can take the amount of water your shower is producing ? an overflowing shower tray can cause serious problems.

    Above all, the main thing to remember when redesigning your bathroom is ? choose a design that works for your lifestyle.

    Barry Dunlop is the Founder of Bathroom-Buyers-Guide.com - The site that promises you lots of tips, advice and help to plan, design and buy your dream bathroom! Find out more at his http://www.bathroom-buyers-guide.com

    Saturday, November 15, 2008

    Home Security: How to Defend Your Home When You Are Away

    Is your home going to be empty for several days while you go on vacation? That's when your home or apartment is most vulnerable to break-ins.

    Here are several specific things you can do to ensure your home stays safe even when you are away.

    * The best defense for your home is to have a house sitter. There's no getting around it. A house where someone is staying is almost always safer than a house that's empty. See if you can get a trusted friend or relative to stay at home while you are away.

    * Stop your mail delivery and newspaper delivery for the entire time you are away. An overflowing mailbox or piles of newspaper advertises that no one's home. Alternatively, get a neighbor to collect them regularly.

    * Similarly, if you keep a garden or have potted plants that are visible, get someone to come in regularly and maintain them. Wilted and dying plants are another signal that the house is uninhabited. At the very least, move the potted plants out of sight.

    * Put lights as well as TV / radio on timers. Put lights on timers in multiple rooms. Try to create a natural-looking sequence for the lights. Set the timer to turn on the living room lights at sunset. Later on, at your regular bedtime, set it to switch off the living room lights and turn on the bedroom lights at around the same time.

    If you regularly turn on the TV at 8:00 pm and it remains switched on till 11:00 pm, set the timer accordingly. Quite often, even if the lights are on, the absence of the bluish glow from the TV can give away the fact that no one's really home.

    * Ask a neighbor to drop into your house regularly, if you don't have a house sitter. Windows being opened and closed, curtains being worked and so on are signs that someone is home.

    * If you live in a rented home or apartment, you may want to notify your landlord that you will be away. In fact, some lease agreements stipulate that you must inform them if you are going away. Some landlords like to keep an eye on an empty house, even if they don't enter it.

    * If you have an alarm system installed, make sure the house sitter knows how to operate it.

    * Leave your contact details with the house sitter and/or neighbor. Whoever is checking on the house should know who they should call if there is a problem.

    Joe Timbers has written on home security ideas including how to enhance home security, home security tips while on vacation and more. Click on the previous links to see some of his articles.

    Thursday, November 13, 2008

    Wallpaper Removal A Quick and Easy HowTo

    A word of warning upfront, if you have a wallpaper removal task ahead of you?re your in for a bit of work. Make sure you set aside a considerable amount of time for this project as you may run into tough spots and problem areas that will eat up a lot of time. Removing wallpaper however, while not a fun task, can be done quickly and easily if you are prepared.

    First get the room ready. Remove everything from the room that can be removed. This includes furniture and rugs where possible. When the room is emptied cover the floor with a drop cloth in the area you will be working. This will aid in cleanup later.

    Now get all of your tools together:

    ?Goggles
    ?Mask
    ?Perforator
    ?Bucket
    ?Sponge
    ?Glue Dissolving Agent
    ?Blunt Scraper
    ?Sharp Scraper

    Goggles and a mask are on the list first for a good reason. You will have little pieces of who knows how old paper with who know what kind of glue on it flying and dripping all over the place. Wear the goggles and the mask whenever you are doing the least bit of work.

    I can?t underestimate the importance of the perforator. They come in a couple styles and sizes. Get the one that is most appropriate to the amount of paper you have to remove. The perforator is pretty simple to use. With a slight amount of pressure you roll it around the wall and it makes little divots into the paper. Be careful not to press to hard as you do not want to dig into the wall itself.

    Next is preparing your solution. The commercial products work well, but I?ve had good results with warm water and vinegar. If you are going to use the commercial products, be sure to follow their instructions as to mixture ratios. For the vinegar solution, 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water is sufficient for most glues. Add more vinegar if you are having difficulties.

    Ok, so we?re ready to start soaking the walls. Pick a spot, not to large, and get it thoroughly wet with your sponge and solution. Some people like to use a sprayer as well, but I find the sponge and a little pressure works better. Don?t be shy about wetting the wall. Your solution needs to soak through the paper and loosen the glue. You may have to repeat this step depending on your situation.

    Now comes the scrapping. Use a blunt scrapper or even a putty knife to start with. You want to avoid nicking or gauging the wall underneath to save the trouble of spackling later on. Use slow even strokes to remove the paper. If it is loose enough it will simply melt off the wall. If not, wet it again. If you continue to have trouble, you may have to switch to the sharp scrapper. Be very careful though, of both your fingers and the wall!

    Once all the paper if off, you may have to repeat this process to remove extra paper layers or even a glue layer that may be left behind. You want to get all the way down to the plaster or drywall. Then, spackle any nicks or holes smooth, clean up the mess and paint to suit. Oh, and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

    D. David Dugan has a website, http://homeimprovement.divinfo.com to help homeowners find all the information they need about remodeling, home repair, building decks and carports, room additions, and more. He also actively participates in an article directory at http://www.articlemotron.com that has current and up to date information on many topics.

    Tuesday, November 11, 2008

    Diwali Diyas

    Diwali Diya is a small earthen lamp that is lit especially at Indian Festival Of Lights Diwali. They are usually made of clay. Ghee or oil is used as the fuel and cotton wool as the wick. Though in these days electric lights are replacing earthen Diyas, still the charm of traditional Diwali Hindu Lamps is there. These Diwali diyas are used for offering prayers to Gods and the deceased ancestors, are floated on leaves over the holy rivers like the Ganges at Haridwar.They have long been linked with Diwali tradition and are today the most integral of all the Diwali decorations.

    Tradition Of Diwali Diyas:

    It is said that when Lord Rama returned to Ayodhya after 14 years of exile, the people were overjoyed to see him along with Sita and Lakshman. Since it was a no moon night, people lit up candles and diyas along Lord Rama?s path. Once he reached his abode, there was also a dazzling display of fireworks. Everybody sang, and danced in celebration and welcomed their king with open arms and hearts. Since then, each year that day came to be celebrated as Diwali, and the Diwali Diya became its most conspicuous feature. Today these small earthen lamps can be found lit in every home, office and temple.

    Different Types Of Diyas:

    Beautifully crafted diyas beckon attention of the buyers. The earthen diya used on the occasion of Diwali, reflects ancient design sense that is simple and stunning in concept and universal in appeal. The Diwali season sees a proliferation of clay creativity ranging from roadside agals to designer diyas displayed in art and craft boutiques.

    During Diwali, various shops showcase brilliant diwali diyas and lamps crafted by ceramic designers from all over the country. There are also diyas with zari and mirror in exuberant colours. Delightfully, imaginative diyas with sharply cut edges, embellished with cut work are covered and filled with bright coloured wax.

    Mirror work and zari embellished deep, traditional diyas as well as those embellished with fragrant dried flowers, Ganesha and Lakshmi diyas with 21 or 11 spouts, diyas shaped like China leaves and shaded roses, tiny Parvati Ganesha lamps and many other design vie for attention. Made out of clay, the diyas in vivid shades of yellow, blue, pink, gold and silver are well crafted.

    In each legend, myth and story of Deepawali lies the significance of the victory of good over evil; and it is with each Deepawali and the lights that illuminate the homes and hearts, that this simple truth finds new reason and hope. Since baked-mud 'diyas' or 'deeps' are considered more holy and auspicious, they are purchased to light on the Diwali night, particularly before the idols or photographs of gods and goddesses while offering prayers.

    Shoppe

    Sunday, November 9, 2008

    Septic Systems A Short Story

    What would inspire me to write about septic systems? Maybe it's part in parcel with my fascination with composting and recycling? Maybe I'm just a garbage hound at heart! No - seriously, it's more that my travels as a home inspector have led me to focus on these delightful systems. I don't think I'll ever opt for a career in septic inspection, but I have gained a basic understanding of what constitutes a normal, functioning sewage disposal system.

    Installing a private septic for a rural home includes soil tests, site inspections and considerable excavation work. Because of the design considerations and the amount of digging required, you probably wouldn't want to build your own; but to maintain it properly, you should know how it operates. Waste is piped out of the house into one side of a cement box called a septic tank, where bacteria break it down into solids (sludge), liquid (effluent), and scum. The sludge sinks to the bottom, the scum floats to the top, and the effluent flows into the other side, and then out through perforated pipes (drainage tile) buried in a leaching bed of loose gravel (also known as the septic field).

    Sewage and The Law!

    Government regulations specifically prohibit any renovations or additions to a home which are likely to affect the operation or effectiveness of a sewage system. If you're on a septic, adding a bedroom to your house (even without adding a bathroom) might mean having to increase the size of your tank and field. The regulations further state that any construction or alteration of a septic requires a Certificate of Approval issued by the Ministry or department responsible.

    If you have questions about the care and operation of your septic system, call your Municipal Office, Health Department, Environment Canada, or any licensed sewage contractor listed in the Yellow Pages.

    There's no hard and fast rule for pumping intervals, but an inspection and pump-out every third year are recommended. Don't allow meat by-products or harsh chemicals to enter your septic, and avoid the use of commercial tank cleaners or treatments. Don't plant trees on the field, and never drive over it!

    By the way, greener grass over the septic is NOT usually a good sign!

    Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

    Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

    Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

    The Home Reference Book
    You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
    It's the first tool you should have around the house!

    Friday, November 7, 2008

    How to Deal With Contractors (So You Won't Go Mad!)

    BE PREPARED -- Building a house is lots of fun, but it?s a huge time investment, too. There?s a ton of paperwork and planning, so it?s essential to establish a system to stay organized. You may have collected articles, paint samples, roofing samples, etc, etc. over the past few months (or years, depending on how long you?ve been dreaming of this!) that you want to incorporate into your new house. A see- through plastic bin is handy for keeping your miscellaneous items in, so you can sift through them every so often. Sometimes it?s a good way to keep your goal in mind if you periodically look at the items in the box, as a little reminder of what you?re going for.

    Keep a good filing system. You?ll be getting a lot of quotes (a word to the wise: don?t get too many quotes for each job ? establish what a reasonable rate for the job at hand is, then settle on a contractor you?re comfortable with. Remember, the cheapest guy isn?t always the best, and neither is the most expensive one, necessarily?). Quotes that require a lot of detail (Framing, Foundation, Drywall, Mechanical, Cabinetry, etc.) should be kept intact.

    Make a copy of the original quote, then block out the prices and use that for the new quotes. That way, you?re comparing apples to apples, oranges to oranges. (Word to the wise -- Dwight insisted on this going in, although I don't agree with it. I have found that just asking for a Complete Quote, stating the exact same information, will give me a much better 'feel' for the Contractor. You can tell right from the beginning if the guy is trying to pull the wool over your eyes -- stay away from this type -- it only gets worse. This kind of guy will give you a quote that seems very reasonable, but often leaves out crucial components.

    We had a number of situations like this during this Build -- the first quote for the Basement -- and it was extremely detailed -- was $20,000. higher than the other quotes. I know -- craaazy! You gotta watch out and stay on your toes! The Cabinetry quotes were all over the board, and the Drywall for the Garage alone varied from $2,500. to $9,500. Our house cost was cut down by at least $40,000., just by shopping around and really reading the quotes.) It?s not fair to get two different quotes and one includes the cement for the foundation and the other is only for the cribbing? asking for a complete quote might eliminate this situation, but being careful from the outset will save you a lot of bother, later.

    Sometimes, you may notice that you?ll get very different ?complete quotes?. We have found that the quote you get is often a ?forewarner? of the work you?ll get. If it takes a ridiculous amount of time to even get the quote, and you can?t get the guy to return your phone calls, that?s probably what it?ll be like when he?s actually working for you, if you give him the job. If the quote is sloppy (we call them ?napkin quotes?, since they?re scribbled out on a napkin from the restaurant, so you have to look through the coffee stains to see the numbers, or on a crumpled up piece of paper!), the workmanship might be careless, too. Keep in mind that prices go up over time, so if the quote is old, it?ll need to be up-dated before any work commences.

    Also, mistakes happen, so go over your quote to make sure that it is relatively accurate ? you should never be responsible for knowing exactly how many screws will be required for the project (how are you paying for this?! Ha,ha,ha!), but you should check the windows and doors, what?s included in each package, to make sure it?s actually for your house!

    Be sure to go over the Check List of every step that must be followed. Missing a step (like permits!) can cost you time and money (jail time in some States, if you haven?t gone through the right authorities to make sure you can build what you want ? be especially careful with this if you live in an historical neighborhood).

    BE DECISIVE -- It's important to have a clear idea of what you want in your home before you start to build, or even draw. The more you decide early, the fewer distractions and delays that will happen later. This is not to say that you can't or shouldn't make changes throughout the project, but be prepared to make quick decisions on those changes. Fence sitting or being wishy-washy will drive everyone crazy.

    Keep in mind that if your contractor asks you more than once or twice about something you haven't made your mind up on, he'll probably head off to another job, and you may not see him again for a while! The reality of a contractor's life is that he'll have many projects going at the same time, so don't think he'll wait around and hold your hand while you decide on a tile? it ain't gonna happen. Be decisive and clear - you'll save time and money.

    BE NICE -- I love the stories from people who say proudly, 'Yeah, I really ground my contractor down', and 'I told my contractor off, this morning. He left, but I think he's coming back later, today?' Ha,ha,ha,ha! Those crazy nuts! That's a great way to get rid of your contractor, and make it very difficult to find another one. Contractors are, for the most part, connected. And maybe a little gossipy? what do you think they talk about while they drink all that coffee?! Ha,ha. Also, if you bring in another contractor to finish another guy's work, they'll know immediately that there was conflict on-site, and they may be reluctant to get involved. The bottom line is, be respectful of your contractors as you expect them to be respectful of you. If you do have an issue, meet off-site to discuss the situation and come to a resolution.

    Word to the Wise: Normally this is sound advice, but sometimes you will find yourself faced with a crisis that needs to be dealt with head on...like the one we had with our first carpenter. We gave him as many chances as we could before I had to confront him on the job about his work. It was very unpleasant, but I had to let him go -- the whole Job was suffering because of this one guy.

    The real key, even in this case, is that we knew we had Trevor (our favorite Carpenter!) waiting in the wings before we said anything to the first guy... better safe than sorry!

    BE REALISTIC -- Set a time frame that is reasonable. When you're starting from scratch, it takes weeks or months for many stages. The plans and blueprints can easily take 3 months or more, depending on how elaborate your plans are. The actual building process is quite quick if you have planned everything out in advance, but you should still allot at least 3 - 8 months for the building process. Then be prepared for another couple of months if things go wrong. It's been known to happen! Have a back up plan for where you will live if you have a specific move-out date in your current home so you won't be panicked if your new house isn't even at lock-up stage and the moving van is at your door!

    Remember, again, that you're are probably not your contractor's only client, so you may or may not be at the top of his priority list. (Calling him at home at 6:00a.m. every day will not put you higher on the list, just so you know - we've had people try that!) Keep this in mind when you have a short time frame - it's amazing how much easier it is to schmooze when you're desperate!

    One more thing - I notice that there's a lot of crappy advice out there on 'How to Find a Contractor'. 359 Thousand Easy Questions to Ask a Builder. Puh-leeease. Like they're gonna respond well to that! Gimme a break! Do these people know any contractors?! You need basic information - How much is it? Are you available? When will you be available? Can you recommend any other trades? Keep it simple. Meet face-to-face. Go see some of his previous work. Don't annoy people from 10 years ago who had work done by the contractor. Would you like someone calling you? Asking a million stupid questions will raise a red flag for the contractor that this potential client is more likely to be a potential pain in the shirt. Contractors are (generally speaking) so busy that they don't need the hassle. Also, if the contractor has a group of sub-trades that he regularly works with, it'll be waaay easier to keep track of everyone once the project gets underway, which will make the whole thing much easier all round.

    BE FLEXIBLE --No. This does not mean bending over backwards for your contractor (although, truth be told, they might like to see that ?ha,ha). It just means that if your significant other really, really, reallllly wants Sand Beige, and you have your heart set on Evening Taupe (yes, it's practically the same shade, but couples often have major disagreements over tiny, tiny issues), go with whatever gets you in the house. Maybe you can choose the five foot tall gargoyles for the top of the fireplace, then let there be a compromise. 'Okay, you go two shades up on the colour and I'll give up on the gargoyles on the mantel ?' Voila! You've got what you wanted! (Don't try this little ploy if your spouse actually likes indoor gargoyles!)

    Building a house (or any other joint effort that involves hammers and paint) can be very trying on a relationship. Be sure to work out problems as they arise - letting things stew will not make the project easier. Reassure each other when necessary, then randomly after that! Keep your eye on the prize -- you'll both love the house when it's done. Hey, you can use your Air Miles Credit Card when you're buying the million things you need to build the house, that way you'll have accumulated enough points to take a well deserved break at the end of the job! Hawaii, here we come!

    BE POSITIVE -- Keeping a positive attitude always helps the situation. Chances are pretty high that you'll encounter difficulties, or things that you hadn't anticipated. Don't spiral downwards - it won't help. Stay focussed; find a solution. Have you ever talked to someone who is always spinning a negative tale? Can you get away from them fast enough?! Ugh. Nothing worse. You want to maintain a positive outlook on the whole thing. You'll be surprised by how that affects everyone around the construction site. (Oh, yeah. Don't be a pest, either. Visit from time to time, but 'supervising' professionals is totally annoying and will slow up the work. They're there to build, not teach, so you can ask the odd question and make nice comments, but that's about it - the less said, the better. You can bring treats and cold drinks, though - everyone will love that!) Also, to the untrained eye, a project might appear to be 10% done when in reality it is 80% completed, so uninformed comments from the peanut gallery will not be appreciated. People work best when they're praised, appreciated, and fairly paid. (Okay, here's my last little addition-make sure you pay your contractor. Seems simple, but it makes a big difference on future work - either different work or maintenance on the current work.) Good stuff to keep in mind when you're at the building site.

    Ailsa Forshaw is a Writer, Builder, Website Owner & Manager, Teacher, Mother... all in Alberta, Canada. She is Married with Two Lovely Children, and one gorgeous wee dog. Her Website, http://www.buildyourownhouse.ca, is chock full of all sorts of useful & fun information to help anyone become Financially Successful, Slim, Trim, and Happy... what more could you want?? Pop in for a wee visit! http://www.buildyourownhouse.ca http://www.theScottishDiet.com