DIY Bathroom Plumbing Installing a New Showerhead

Of all the home plumbing repairs you could tackle, the replacement of an old showerhead with a new one is probably the easiest. A shower plumbing project is a good starter project for a number of reasons. No special tools are required, the necessary parts are pretty close to one size fits all, and if you do make a mistake and have a leak, the only thing that gets wet is your shower/bathtub. This is the perfect project for the novice home repair handyman to start with and can usually be completed in well under an hour.

The first step is to decide what type of shower head you want to replace. While most shower fixtures connect to a standard size pipe thread, you must make sure you have enough clearance for your new showerhead. If the stem (the portion of the pipe from the wall to the existing shower head) is short or close to the ceiling you will want to check before purchasing a large fixture.

The Tools You Need - For this project, you will need a wrench or pliers and some teflon tape. Depending upon the age of your existing fixture, you may also need to have a pipe wrench on hand as well. You may also want to have something available protect your fixture from the jaws of the wrench or pliers (a folded rag or piece of rubber from an inner tube work well)

Remove the Old Showerhead - If you have an older unit you probably have some rust, oxidation, or lime buildup that may make removal difficult. If the fixture does not readily unscrew, use two sets of pliers/wrenches (with the jaws of each protected as indicated above), one set on the stem and the other on the fixture. Apply equal pressure to both sides to until the showerhead starts to move. Be careful not to apply too much force as you do not want to break either the stem or existing showerhead. Once the shower head starts to turn you should be able to remove it by hand.

Clean and prepare the stem pipe - A little preparation here could save you quite a bit of time later if you decide to replace the showerhead again. Clean the threads of the stem of any rust or lime and apply teflon tape to the threads. This will help the new showerhead install easily, provide a good seal, and make it easier in the future if you ever have to replace the shower head again.

Install the New Shower - If you selected a simple replacement showerhead all that remains to be done is to screw the new fixture onto the prepared pipe stem. Make sure not to over-tighten when you are installing this - hand tight plus a quarter or half turn is probably all you need. If you have purchased a more sophisticated fixture like a shower massage wand you may have a few pieces to install. Make sure that you apply teflon tape to all threaded connections (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer) to ensure a good seal.

Test It - Before putting your tools away and jumping in the shower take a few minutes to make sure the job is done. Turn on the water and check each of the connections for leaks. If you find any, usually they will be fixed by tightening the connection another quarter or half turn. If this does not address the problem you may need to check for a missing or worn washer.

Ray Breitenbach writes for Simple Home Repairs. Please visit for more information on how to perform you own basic home repairs.

Home Security: How to Make Your Home BurglarResistant

Home security is a huge concern these days, given the increasingly unsafe environment we live in. The fact is, there are a number of easy, practical steps you can take to minimize the chances of your home being burglarized.

* Prevention if usually better than cure. Before you rent or buy a home / apartment, get to know the neighborhood. Talk to residents; ask about burglaries and other crimes in the locality. Being aware of what has been happening in the area should be a priority.

* If possible, have a security expert evaluate the home. Incidentally, many police departments will do a security check of your home at no cost. You will often be alerted to problems you didn't know existed.

* Don't hide keys outside the house for fear of being locked out. Getting a locksmith to open your door is a whole lot cheaper than losing valuables because a burglar discovered your hidden keys!

Where possible, team up with a neighbor and hold one set of each other's keys. That way you have a spare set of keys available should the need arise.

* Trim bushes around your house before they grow enough to easily hide an intruder.

* Having good lighting around your home or apartment complex is an important factor in deterring intruders. If there are burnt-out bulbs or the lighting is inadequate, address the issue

* If you have windows accessible using fire escapes or directly from the ground, they should not open wide enough to let a person in. A screw built into the frame can accomplish this. There are other very effective stops also available. Of course, you should be able to escape in the event of a fire.

* There are anti-lift devices available that can prevent an entire window or sliding door being lifted out of its frame. If you do not install them, thieves may make locks irrelevant by lifting the window or door.

* Your door should have a dead bolt, not just the lock in the knob. Get one installed, if you don't have one already.

* Avoid listing your complete address in the phone book. List only your street name, at most. This will prevent someone doing reverse listings to find out your name and phone number using your address.

* It is tempting to leave notes for your kids or neighbors on mailboxes and doors. This is an open declaration that you are not home.

* Do not announce your absence from home through your answering machine. Incidentally, an answering machine can be useful for identifying suspicious patterns of missed calls.

* There are a number of excellent home security systems available. If you feel the level of risk warrants it, consider using them.

* Decals are often a good deterrent. Alarm system decals or beware of dog, neighborhood watch signs can make would-be burglars think twice.

Utilize these suggestions and you will make your home a safer place to live in.

Joe Timbers has written on home and office security including ideas on enhancing home security, tips for home security while on vacation and more. Click on the previous links to see some of his articles.

Hardwood Versus Laminate Flooring The Truth!

Don?t be fooled! No matter what you have heard or people say nothing matches the richness of a real hardwood floor. Laminate flooring is a photograph of a hardwood floor laminated (glued) to a composite material made up of compressed paper and glue.

Laminate flooring does not look like real hardwood nor does it feel like real hardwood underfoot. No two hardwood floors are the same, grains vary on each and every board. It is the inherent imperfections in the lumber that creates the richness that can only be found by using hardwood flooring.

Why then has laminate flooring become so popular, you might ask? The reason is two fold. The first, cost per square foot for the material. Laminate flooring can be purchased for as little as $0.80 per sq. ft., with a top end price of $3.00 per sq. ft. The second reason is installation, laminate is very easy to install and can be done by most home handymen, it requires little in special tools (a power saw with a carbide tipped blade is really the only required tool). Laminate can be laid over any flat surface including carpeting, an underlay of thin foam is recommended to reduce floor movement, comfort and sound transmission. Even contracted out, a laminate floor, complete with foam underlay can be had for less than $3.00 a sq. ft.

A quality oak, tongue and grove hardwood flooring material will cost at least $4.00 a sq. ft. and some of the exotic hardwoods can take the cost to more than $20.00 a sq. ft. Installation will cost another $3.00 to $5.00 a sq. ft. Hardwood generally, should not be used below grade or on a concrete slab floor because of dampness rising from below the boards and producing a warping effect. Hardwood should be installed by a professional, to ensure that subtleties in grains and colors are taken into account as each board is laid. As well, on delivery of the hardwood boards some will be warped and it takes some expertise to straighten them during installation. Installation is usually accomplished using a tongue and grove nailing machine, either pneumatic or manual. Although this is a simplistic tool, it takes some practise to utilize it properly and not damage the hardwood boards during installation.

Falling in between hardwood and laminate (although it really is much closer to hardwood than laminate) is an ?engineered hardwood floor?. An engineered hardwood is a piece of hardwood, anywhere form 1/16? to 3/16? glued to a plywood. The engineered floor can be floating, similar to laminate where it is not glued down to the sub-floor or it can be glued down. Engineered hardwood is approximately the same price per sq. ft. as regular hardwood the difference is in the cost of the installation. It is easier to install because the boards are all flat and there is usually a high grain and color consistency. Installation of an engineered hardwood floor is around $1.75 a sq. ft. The engineered hardwood can also be used below grade and on concrete slabs because it is the plywood that is in contact with the sub-floor rather than the hardwood itself.

For additional information on flooring products for your home or information on other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Gas Fire Pits The Easier Option

When people think of fire pits, they usually think of the traditional wood burning versions. A wood burning fire pit certainly gives a traditional touch to your yard or patio, but a gas fire pit has a number of advantages. That doesn't necessarily mean that a gas fire pit is better, it's just that it may suit some people better than a wood burning fire pit.

Perhaps the biggest advantage of a gas fire pit is that it gives off lots of heat and that heat is consistent. If you're planning on using your fire pit to keep warm during the cold months, this is very important. It's also handy if you're traveling in the great outdoors and need some added comfort only those chilly nights.

It's also really easy to operate a gas fire pit. Basically, when you're ready to light it, you turn the gas on. The flames instantly appear, and that's all you have to do. You don't have to find wood to burn, or get the fire started. This convenience is a big factor for many people, who don't want to spend ages messing about getting the fire going.

Gas fire pits are also very easy to clean up when you're done. You turn the gas off, and you can walk away. With a wood burning fire pit, you need to make sure that the flame has been completely extinguished before it's safe to leave the pit unattended. At some point you also have to clean out all the burnt matter.

If you're serious about buying a fire pit for your patio or garden, or even to take on vacation with you, then a gas fire pit is a great choice. It may not have the natural beauty of a wood burning fire pit, but it's much less work and trouble, and very simple to use. You also don't have to mess about after the evening is finished, you simply turn it off and that's all. A gas fire pit is a great buy if you want to give your outdoor entertaining something special.

If you want to find out more about fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Fire Pits How To Choose The Right One For You

When you mention fire pits to someone, it's amazing how often they have a very specific idea about what a fire pit actually is. And yet the reality is that there's a huge range of fire pits available, which can make choosing the right one for you more difficult.

Fire pits can be permanent or portable, suitable for bonfires, barbecues or heating, use different fuel sources, come in different sizes and styles, and have different accessories. When you pit all those variables together, it's no wonder that choosing the right fire pit can be confusing! Let's take a look at some of the most popular designs.

The chiminea is a very attractive fire pit design. Basically, it's a circular, squat tub that sits above the ground, usually supported on three feet. Traditionally it was made of ceramic, although modern variations come in other materials such as cast iron or metal. It can be used to cook food and also provide heat by burning wood logs. Modern versions still maintain the same rounded body and cylindrical stovepipe, and there's a small hole in the side of the bowl where you can feed wood onto the fire.

You might prefer an in-ground, permanent fire pit design. These begin as a hole dug into the ground, then are usually lined with a small wall of stone that extends above the ground. These rocks or bricks help to insulate the fire from the soil, as well as blocking the wind. You can use an in-ground fire pit as a type of campfire in your own backyard, and you can add a grill on top for cooking. A sunken fire pit can't be moved, but they are considered safer than using an open fire built straight onto the ground.

If you're keen to have a wood fire pit, but don't want a permanent hole in the ground, then take a look at some of the portable above ground units. Copper bowls are very popular, with a dish to build the fire in and metal supports to hold it up. You can also get above ground fire pits that are square or rectangular, and many have spark screens over the flames. That way fresh air gets in but the flames and sparks can't escape. You can take you portable fire pit to the beach, woods or anywhere you like, so they?re very versatile. Some enclosed fire pits have the option of adding a rotisserie bar, a flat grill for barbecuing and an ash pan that's easy to remove and clean. You can also use coals instead of wood.

It's also possible to buy fire pits that are fuelled by gas rather than wood or coals. Generally, this type of fire pit will need to be permanent, so that it can remain connected into your natural gas lines. A few designs do run on propane and can be moved around. A gas fire pit usually contains ceramic or concrete logs for a nice effect. They come in a range of shapes, but don't need a spark screen. A gas fire pit can also be a good choice if wood fires are disallowed in your neighborhood.

Whichever fire pit you choose, if you've taken the time to think about what you plan to use it for beforehand, you'll be happy with your choice.

If you want to read more about fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Painting The Walls

First of all, Prepare the room by removing every bit of furniture that you can, or pile it all in the middle so you have room to move and make a few mistakes. Cover it with good dust sheeting. Then cover the carpet or flooring with dust sheeting. Cover everything that isn't going to be painted.

Then, remove, with a good flat scraper, any bits sticking off the walls. (Lumps, bumps, sellotape, bluetack). Then, get all nails out. Fill in any holes with a GOOD filler and when dry, sand flush.

CUTTING IN will take you the most time. Cutting in means using a brush to get to all the areas where your roller won't go. It's the bit where you go around all the top corners (ceiling) first, and paint a line at the top of the walls. Make it thick enough so that you don't have to do another coat, because it's not fun.

Do try not to get any of your wall paint on the ceiling. If you do, let it dry and then paint over it with your ceiling paint later. When you've done all the ceiling corners, use the same technique to do all the other corners, and along the top of the skirting. To avoid getting paint on the skirting, it is often a good idea to run masking tape along the top surface of the skirting. If you're going to sand and paint the skirting later, this is not so important of course.

Do the same with light switches, window cills and wall sockets. Again, use masking tape if you like.

Pour your paint into the container and load your big fluffy roller on a pole with paint. Start at one end of one wall, and using smooth strokes, going up and down gently but firmly, work to the other end. Apply the same for the other walls.

Depending on the colour you are using and the quality of the paint, you may need only one coat. Or two. Maybe three.

Use a matt paint unless you're really good. Gloss and semi gloss or silk finishes will show up all your sins and every inconsistency on the surface.

Let it all dry off before washing your roller. you may have missed a few bits or may need to do another coat.

The masking tape can be removed prior to the paint fully drying, but make sure you won't need another coat first.

Sort the roller out as described in my 'Ceiling painting' article.

Stephen Kaye is an Author and Businessman living in Devon, UK. He runs a Decorating business and sells 'How To Set Up And Run Your Own Successful Painting And Decorating Business' in .pdf form, CD, or hard copy for ?29.50. Contact him on kaye.steve@gmail.com for more information or visit http://www.tradeworldhq.com/decorating

Cedar Decking: Wood Is Good

Cedar is a truly remarkable material for use in a variety of building products, including (or perhaps especially) decking lumber. This magnificent softwood lends something of the Pacific Northwest to the exteriors of many residences and offices, with warm cinnamon tones that age gracefully to a seasoned silver. Apart from being attractive, with a rustic beauty that is unparalleled, cedar has many natural properties that give it a built-in resistance to the ravages of the elements as well as attack by insects. As such, cedar as a decking material has become one of the most popular choices when planning an exterior addition to a property. Red cedar in particular represents a robust choice in durable and visually striking materials for the kind of decking that adds all kinds of value to any given exterior.

Cedar is a resilient, reliable building material

Red Cedar for use in decking and in other building products is a species native to the coastal regions of the Pacific Northwest. The wood itself is naturally imbued with a high resistance to UV rays, moisture, and insect damage due to the presence of certain chemicals that protect it from degeneration. This is the reason why the species has thrived in such a moisture-heavy environment. These attributes are also a key reason as to why red cedar has been so heavily relied upon as tools and building materials since before the area was settled by Europeans. With these strengths in mind, red cedar is also a softwood, making it very easy to work with. Its look, its natural protection against the elements, and even the pleasant scent that is associated with it, lends it an organic warmth and general appeal that can easily be translated to your decking projects.

Cedar for use as decking

Carrying these benefits over specifically for the purposes of building a deck, cedar does not contain many of the resins or pitch found in other types of wood. This means that applying finish is much easier, which means further protection against the elements. Cedar is resilient enough to discourage the corrosion of decking fasteners, a problem that often leads to leeching of rust into a pressure-treated deck. Cedar is durable, and yet it is also lightweight, adding another level of easy workability when building your deck. Once completed, your deck will retain the natural feel and look that is reminiscent of the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, along with the practical benefits of heat insulation (making for a cooler walking surface than many other wood decks), sound absorption, and dimensional stability that makes it a structural benefit to the rest of your property.

Rich and distinguished red cedar decking

The color of cedar is definite benefit to any decking project, and one which presents a number of options when planning one. When cedar is milled, the color ranges from amber to a pinkish hue, taken as it is from the heartwood of the species. By the time it ships, ready for use as decking lumber, it has matured to a cinnamon reddish-brown. As the cedar ages, the color changes yet again; this time to a distinguished silvery gray, if it has not been stained. But if you choose to stain, the possibilities are even wider!

Rob Jones is Communications Coordinator with BuildDirect, a leading online wholesaler of building products. Rob writes articles for commercial contractors and DIYers on features, installation, and maintenance of building materials used in commercial and residential projects. These articles focus on materials such as flooring, decking, roofing, and siding, and other related topics.

CNC Router Buying Guide

CNC router tables are used for cutting wood, plastic, or metal, depending on the machine. They can be used for sign making or general routing jobs. The router doubles as engraving equipment. This versatility allows you to get more from one machine.

The interest in these machines for home use and small shops has grown rapidly in recent years. As people become aware of the accuracy and versatility, this demand will surely increase. Many people are choosing used equipment in an effort to save money, while owning this machinery.

Although they are still expensive for most users, there are plans available on the internet to make your own table. These save money and allow you to choose sizes from 15 by 15 to 50 by 60 inches, according to your needs.

Uses of a CNC Router

With cnc routers, you can do projects that would otherwise take too much time or be too difficult to accomplish. This includes cutting elaborate designs and creating metal inlays in wood. Complex designs come out smooth and accurate. You can do things that you could never do by hand.

These machines are great for furniture making. You will get professional results every time. The software allows you to program the depth per pass for even better results. You can engrave anything from a large sign to very small lettering. These machines are versatile and easy to use, once you?ve been trained on the software.

Smaller machines work on 120 voltage and can be run on typical household current. These are the best choice for the home workshop. The motors are generally either one or two horsepower. These smaller, table top models are more affordable, costing about $7000 new, as opposed to $20,000 for a larger machine. A used machine is even more affordable, costing about $3500. This is still very expensive, but can be cost effective if you are making furniture that you will sell.

Buying a Used CNC Router

Purchasing a used cnc router is a great value for the money. You can save 50% or more compared to the cost of a new machine. Take your time when shopping. Do some research to find the best machine for your needs. Keep in mind that a used machine will probably not be as fast as brand new. However, in a small shop, this may not matter.

Many used machines have been reconditioned. The machine is inspected and any damaged parts are replaced. Ask about the work that was done to your router. Find out what was repaired or replaced. Ask about a warranty. Many come with a one year warranty, which is a big plus.

Find out about the support that is offered by the company. Many will offer help with installation and train you for using the software. This is important if you?ve never used one before. Look for professional advice and support. Whenever possible, choose a dealer that offers on going support. Make sure to get a manual for your router. You will need the information contained in the manual for operation and maintenance.

Ken Morris distributes lots of information to http://www.inside-woodworking.com a website with resources. The writer is writing on subjects such as cnc router.

How to Install a New Toilet in 5 Easy Steps

If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is quite easy to do and can be completed in an afternoon. However, if you plan to install a toilet in a new location, you will have to extend supply pipes and drainpipes to the desired spot, a job you may want to leave to a plumbing contractor.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers, and hardware for fitting the tank to the bowl. However you might need to buy a few parts. Here is a list of what you need to complete this task:

Parts: Toilet bowl, Toilet tank, Toilet seat, Two 1/4 bolts for bowl to flange, Wax ring, 20 water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection and Tools: Pair of channel pliers, bucket, screw driver.

(Many of these can be ordered online at any DIY website such as DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/plumbing/)

1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4 nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4 bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.

4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put 2 rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, and snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.

Maintenance:

At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning the toilet tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining and use a cloth or brush to clean. Also clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl as well as the 3/4 hole in the bottom of toilet bowl. Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed. Maintaining your new toilet will keep the plumber away and reduce your plumbing bill.

Copyright ? 2005. Bridget Mwape writes for DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/ which features how-to articles and products to help you with your DIY and home improvement projects. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable and this author box (byline) is not edited.

The $27000 Toilet Seat Funny DIY Story

This story was told to me by a plumber I know and it brings home the reason why there are times to call a professional.

I received a call from a homeowner asking for someone to come estimate some repairs. When I asked the sort of repairs, he said it would be too many to enumerate, but much easier if I just came out to the house and looked. I went. It began like this...

Old Joe wanted to change his toilet seat, but couldn't get the old one off. So he tried wrenches until he rounded off the nuts (he was turning them the wrong way because they were upside down) and then decided to get his trusty cold chisel and hammer out. Well, he tapped a bit on it with no success, so he drew back the hammer to smite a mighty blow against the stubborn bolt. In so doing he broke the toilet tank and flooded the area with cold water. This cold water gave him a shock and he drew back in a hurry dropping the hammer into the bathtub causing a big chunk of the porcelain to pop off the tub floor.

Regrouping his thoughts, he ran down to the basement two floors below to shut off the water to the house, the house had no other valves installed when it was built in the 1890's. Meanwhile water was flooding through the floors and had saturated the plaster of the ceiling below to the point it collapsed into the living room. Old Joe then removed what was left of the toilet tank, and tried to remove the bowl from the floor flange. It wouldn't budge either, so out comes the trusty chisel and hammer again, and WHACK no more toilet bowl. In the process however, he managed to tear the closet flange from the floor as well,and since it was attached to a lead closet bend, it torn and now needed replaced too. He determined that it would be necessary to cut out the tee in the stack where the closet bent was attached. Since he had no idea how to repair old lead piping, he thought using that nifty PVC from Home Depot would do the trick.

He tried to cut the cast iron stack with a hacksaw to no avail, then tried a sawzall, also fruitless, so.... yep, out comes the good old chisel and hammer, but a bigger hammer this time. He whacks on the stack a few mighty blows and Viola' it splits into several pieces with one tiny segment still holding it all together. He pried the last vestige of solid pipe out of the wall with a crowbar and suddenly the remaining section of pipe (the vent going through the roof) lets go and with a mighty crash comes down and out of the wall through the sub floor into the now plaster less ceiling of the living room, continues its downward decent until it hits the TV set, ricocheting off that and through the floor of the living room until it hit the electrical panel plunging the house into total darkness and finally comes to rest after shearing off the main water shut off valve flooding the basement.

This was a $27,000 toilet seat replacement.

For More Do It Yourself Funny Stories visit: http://www.forteelectric.com/DIYproblems.html

Paul Forte has been in the construction field for over 25 years. You can visit his website at http://www.forteelectric.com

5 Tips To DIY Home Remodeling & Is It Advisable

If your DIY home remodeling project involves paneling, make sure that the structure of your home is in good condition before placing the new panels up. Check for leaks or other problems that may weaken the structure or cause damage to your new paneling.

If your floors are weak from flooding or other misfortune, repair the problem before putting new carpet down. This is one of the most important DIY home remodeling tips in existence. Covering up a problem may provide for a temporary fix, but will only worsen with time. Rather than further ruining the structure of your floor and ultimately your new carpet, make sure that any problems causing moisture or weakness in the floor are repaired.

One of the most popular DIY home remodeling projects is the installation of kitchen cabinets. When choosing your new cabinet design, always make sure that it coincides with that of your kitchen. In addition, always take a look at the warranty coverage before making any type of remodeling purchase. A quality product will offer a generous manufacturer?s warranty and will cover any defects in material or workmanship.

If you are replacing old windows or doors, make sure that you take all of the proper measurements before you shop for replacements. This is very important in confirming that the new items will fit perfectly. With both windows and doors, you will want to make sure that no cracks or other areas are present to allow for hot or cold air to creep inside your home and inflate your energy costs. If cool air comes through in the winter, your heating bill will be higher because it will take more to heat your home. The same is true of those hot summer months when you are using the air conditioner. If warm air gets inside your home, the air conditioner will have to work harder to cool your home. One of the best DIY home remodeling tips is to make sure that your replacements fit perfectly and you can ensure this by measuring precisely before making a purchase.

The majority of small DIY home remodeling projects can be completed by the homeowner, but some may require the help of a contractor. An example would be having a wall taken out to increase the size of a room or building a new room addition. These are both situations where a DIY home remodeling project may call for the help of a professional contractor. This does not mean that the contractor has to do all of the work, but can help to make sure complex parts of the job are done correctly or even help to supervise the completion.

Find all types of home improvement contractors who specialize at installing carpet, doors, siding, roofing and much more. If you are a home improvement contractor or an author of home improvement articles, add your site or articles today.

Carpenter Ants They're Not Builders!

Recently, I noticed an increase in the number of large black ants on the deck attached to the back of my house. Until my father mentioned it I did not really give it a thought but when he pointed out that these were carpenter ants I began to get a bit concerned. The fact that some of them were working their way under the siding indicated that I should probably do something about this before it became a major issue.

Previously, I had used some commercial sprays and/or granules to control small (probably sweet or grease eating ants) colonies next to my driveway but this problem appeared to be more widespread. Checking in at the local DIY home repair superstore, I found there were a number of different options for treating this problem. What I failed to do is to consider how/when to apply my chosen solution. Note: Before applying any pesticide make sure to thoroughly read all of the instructions and warnings. It is also a good idea to discuss this with a professional or somebody who has gone through the process previously.

Choosing a concentrated liquid pesticide I applied it to my deck, foundation and portions of the siding with a garden sprayer in the areas where the ants were seen. So far, so good. However, around an hour later I ran into an unforeseen consequence of NOT getting some advice first - mainly that the ants that were disturbed and/or dying had to go someplace. Around an hour later I started to notice a tremendous number of dying ants inside my house adjacent to the treated area. Since this seemed to indicate that I might already have an ant problem in my house and not just on the deck I decided it was time to call the professionals for an analysis.

Getting some suggestions from co-workers and neighbors, I contacted a local company to have an analysis done - some of the larger franchise operations can be very expensive but the company I selected provided a free estimate and their treatment options were reasonably priced. Upon being told of the problem and what steps had been taken, they suggested a localized treatment instead of a full home treatment - a considerably less expensive option. They pointed out the likely problem area, where there seems to have been moisture damage in the past, and explained how the treatment should kill any ants my spraying had not as well as providing a residual knock down for any unhatched ants that came along later. They informed us that the treatment would take 7 to 10 days during which period I would still see a few ants but to let them know if the problem persisted.

The professional was very willing to share some suggestions on what to look for and what preventitive steps to take to help prevent this from occurring again. Here are the suggestions I have gotten from the professionals as well as those that friends and neighbors have gotten from them as well.

Border/Area Treatments - If you live in an area with a lot of old trees, there are probably carpenter ants in the area. Keeping them out of your house is the best solution. There are many granular and liquid treatments. Apply them from the house outward (you want to keep them out, not push them closer to your home!). If you are using an area treatment as more than a border guard, make sure that you start near the home and work outward.

Look for Ants - The most obvious sign of a problem is ants - if you see many of them in a small area, you might have a problem. You may always have a few isolated ants around, but if you are finding a couple every day in a specific area you may have a problem.

Check the Interior - Carpenter ants often gain access in areas where water damage has softened up the wood for them to work with. Look for discolored areas where you have have had water (where it should not be) in the past. Also check for signs of ant activity. The most obvious sign is small areas where there appears to be sawdust (a result of the ants boring through wood). Also look for any areas that might indicate access to the outside - in my case, there are areas where (once the insulation is moved) you can see daylight between the foundation and the frame of the house.

Seal it up - Caulk, putty, or otherwise seal up any openings you found. Caulking seams is a fairly quick and easy process. If you see areas where there was water damage, you will want to address whatever may have caused the damage (if water can get in, ants probably an also!)

When in doubt, call a Professional - Many local companies will provide free analysis and estimates. If you are unsure you have a problem, contact them. The sign of a good DIY home handyman is knowing when to call for backup.

Ray Breitenbach writes for Simple Home Repairs. Please visit for more information on how to perform you own basic home repairs.

Double Glazing your Home Makes Financial Sense

Double glazing your home can be one of the biggest favors you do for your family and your utility bills. While the initial investment for double glazing is quite sizable, it won't take long for you to easily recover those losses by way of lower heating and cooling bills.

Not only does double glazing your windows assist with lower utility bills, you also get the benefit of an extra barrier between your interior windows and the exterior of your home. This means the inner window is insulated from the heat and cold that the exterior window pane acts as a buffer.

Glazing can also assist in prevention of drafts and the moisture that result from condensation. With mold and moisture becoming more and more of a problem for the modern home eliminating condensation is a huge motivation to invest in double glazing.

Double glazing your doors and windows will result in less hot and cold air being lost through lack of insulation. The end result of that is lower utility bills and more comfortable surroundings in your home, no matter how inclement the weather outside is.
If double glazing your home seems cost prohibitive, you may want to think of it in terms of the savings you will begin to see immediately. There are several ways you can finance your new windows.

Many window companies will finance your double glazed windows for you if your credit meets their requirements. While this isn't the solution for everyone, it may help some and the money saved each month in utility costs can offset the monthly payments for the windows for a short while. Eventually the double-glazing will be paid for while your utility bills continue to be lower. Be sure to compare prices between companies in order to obtain the best deal possible on your windows.

Many lending companies and mortgage brokers will grant a home equity loans for improvements that will make your home more energy efficient. Keep in mind that there will be fees involved from the lender and make sure that the fees won't be equal to the total amount you would need for your windows in the first place.

If all else fails, consider buying one window at a time as you come up with the funds. Replacing one window at a time in this manner will eventually result in the energy efficient home that you are trying to achieve.

When it comes to your home, you want to make the most of the home you have. Double glazing your home is a great way to make your home more appealing (by replacing drafty old windows and panes) and more comfortable (by achieving greater energy efficiency). Don't be convinced to go a lower cost route that will end up costing you much more money in the long run. Go with the best from the beginning and you will be less likely to need to replace them while you own your home.

Allen MacCay is a DIY enthusiast and writes for DIY in your home in the Double Glazing section.

Remodel Your Existing Home or Buy a New One Considerations

Over time, families and incomes grow. The home that you originally purchased may lack the space and features that you now require. If you are happy with the location, you must decide on whether it is more advantageous to remodel your current home or buy a new one in order to increase space and add the features that you desire.

Many people make the decision based on emotion rather than facts. If you are in a situation as previously described you should at a minimum consider the following:

• Return On Investment: Look at the homes on your street and in your neighborhood. Are they all a similar size to your current home? If they are, you may not obtain a return on your investment by adding an addition, if your home becomes the most expensive one in the neighborhood. If however, you currently have a home that is smaller than the average, it may be highly advantageous from an investment standpoint to add an addition.
• Architecture: Does your lot allow space for an addition or would it mean adding a second floor? Would an addition eliminate your outdoor space? Would the finished home be architecturally pleasing or a neighborhood eye sore? If you can visualize the addition and wish to proceed on it would be wise to call in a professional architect to provide expertise on what potentially can and cannot be done. An architect will also be able to advise what is feasible based on the current building codes for your municipality.
• Budget: The architect should be able to advise you on a rough budget based on your requirements and location. Construction costs vary from municipality to municipality, however if you are adding open living space, not including kitchens or bathrooms a good minimum number is $150 a square foot. Kitchens and bathrooms can easily double that number. Of course, adding upscale products such as oak trim and marble flooring will increase the costs. You will not be able to obtain firm quotations from contractors until you have a detailed set of plans. Always add an additional 10 percent to any rough estimates as remodels generally exceed their initial budget.
• Sweat Equity: A remodel does allow you to invest some sweat equity into your home. Portions of the remodel, depending on an individual?s capabilities, can be done by the homeowner. Painting, wallpaper, hanging light fixtures, widow coverings, landscaping, gardening and alike are items that the homeowner can easily do. If you decide to move it is highly likely that you will end up doing a lot of those items at your new home.
• Inconvenience: A major remodel, especially if it involves bathrooms and kitchens can be a major inconvenience to your life, for a period. Workman traipsing through your home, noise, dust, dirt, and loss of utilities for periods of time are all part of the experience of a remodel. Always remember that moving is also filled with inconveniences including packing, new schools, utilities, insurance and that is not to mention the loss of your children?s friends and your neighbors.

Although many people recommend that you discuss a potential remodel with a real estate agent as to the investment versus buying another home, in my opinion this is a mistake. Real estate agents only make money when people buy and sell homes, they obtain no benefit, in any manner if you remodel. From personal experience, they will always suggest that buying another home is the better investment ? it is from their standpoint!

As with most home projects, planning is the key to success!

For additional information on home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.