Let's Talk Laminate Flooring!

The first point that must be made is that Laminate Flooring and Hardwood Flooring only have one thing in common ? they are both flooring products. Laminate is as dissimilar to hardwood as ceramic tile is to cork. Laminate flooring is now sold with a ceramic tile appearance. It is not ceramic tile!

The fact that it is not hardwood flooring or ceramic flooring, does not make it an unacceptable product it only makes it a different product.

Laminate flooring was first introduced as Pergo (a trademark), and it was immediately accepted as a new, relatively inexpensive, and easy to maintain flooring product. However, there was a great deal of confusion about where the product could and couldn?t be used, its longevity, and overall limitations.

With the acceptance of Pergo, innovations on the successful flooring soon appeared in the market. The new product, often referred to as the ?glue-less installation system? created more questions and confusion then its predecessor, Pergo did when it first entered the market. The glue-less installation system is sold and marketed under a variety of nomenclature - snap together, click together and interlocking, depending on the manufacturer.

A flooring material that doesn?t require glue was no less than a brilliant concept. It is the home handyman?s dream, come true. You simple cut the flooring pieces to length, join the pieces together and you have an instantaneous floor that you can walk on and replace the furniture on, immediately after completion. No toxic glue smell, no sanding, no grouting, no sealing. It provides the same satisfaction and attributes for adults as Lego does for children (or for us older individuals ? mini bricks)

Although every manufacturer has coined a phrase to describe their locking mechanism, there are really only two different methods. Chose the method along with the pattern and durability and you have made the decision on which product to purchase.

Snap Together

Utilizing a tongue and groove assembly methodology, the snap together floor is lined up horizontally and then using a mallet, it is tapped together to create a bond to the previous piece. It is the easiest floor to assemble, but it can only be assembled once and it cannot be taken apart to replace sections.

Snap together floors usually have a lower overall quality than you will find in a click together floor.

Click Together

Although click together floors use a tongue and groove, they have been modified to create a lock when they are inserted into each other. The tongue, on the long side of the piece of flooring is inserted into the groove at an angle and then lowered to a flat plain. Minimal tapping at the end joints locks all the pieces together. The flooring can be taken apart and put back together again. This provides the advantage of being able to replace damaged sections.

Although the method of interlocking sections of flooring together is important, the core material is what creates the quality of the laminate flooring. Without a high quality, solid core the locking system will fail, break of be compromised over time. Softer cores are much more prone to damage by liquids than solid cores are.

As with most products and projects knowledge is the key to success. Investigate before you buy!

For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Installing Laminate Flooring Dos and Don'ts!

Every manufacturer of laminate flooring provides very specific instructions on the proper method of installing their product.

There are however, some common dos and don?ts that apply to the installation of any laminate floor. Surprisingly many people ignore these instructions, believing that they know better than the manufacturers.

• Laminate flooring must acclimatize to your home. This is done by placing the boxes in the room where you are going to install the laminate for a minimum period of 48 to 72 hours. Failure to do this will cause floors to buckle. This is the number one mistake made by most people including contractors.
• There must be a gap between walls and any other obstacle, (columns, stair risers, heat vents, etc.) of between 5/16 and 1/2 depending on the manufacturer. This allows for the expansion of the floor. If a gap is not left, the floor will buckle.
• If the laminate flooring is going to be installed on a concrete slab floor where there is earth below the concrete, a vapor barrier must be placed between the concrete and the laminate. The seams should be taped with a moisture resistant tape. Laminate flooring should not be installed on any floor that has a drain.
• Some manufacturers will allow the installation of laminate flooring on carpet. The carpet should be a hard twist (Berber), or a very low pile (commercial carpet). If the underlayment is spongy, the flooring will separate when walked on.
• The smallest piece of flooring should never be less than 8 inches long and the width should never be less than 2 inches. Measure your room before you start the installation as it may be necessary to cut the first board in length and the first row of boards in width to avoid having small pieces.
• Joints should be staggered a minimum of 16 inches apart and a minimum of 3 rows for repeating of the joint.
• If installing base board or quarter round on top of the laminate, do not nail through the laminate. A laminate floor must be allowed to expand and contract.
• Repair any and all squeaks and soft spots in the sub-floor before installing the laminate. Laminate flooring will not correct squeak or soft spot problems.
• Do not continue the installation of laminate flooring through a doorway that is less than 48 inches in width, use a transition molding.
• Do not hammer on the groove end on the board ? ever!
• Always start the installation of the laminate flooring with the groove side and end towards the walls.
• Always use a tapping block to help tighten joints, but do not over hammer or you will damage the surface of the laminate at the joints.
• Floors must be level, no more than 3/16? slope over a ten foot span.
• Floors must be flat. Any dips in the floor should be filled in with self-leveling compound and left to dry at least 72 hours.

Read and follow the manufacturer?s instructions and you will end up with a quality floor that will last for years.

For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

DoItYourself Concerns

If one were to watch some of the Kitchen or Bathroom Renovation shows on the DIY Network, one would be likely to see many homeowners who are doing part or most of the work themselves in order to save money.

And that show makes it look very easy to do. But it's usually not.

Many contractors will get requests from homeowners who ask if they can do some of the work during a renovation project, like demolition or painting. Some even want to do framing and drywall work, ahead of time, to save money. And it's not that some people don't have the ability to do things, but I worry that a lot of homeowners believe they can do more than they really can.

There are some things that homeowners should be aware of if they decide to help out during their renovation.

- If you do your own demolition or installation work, and you haven't factored in other work that needs to be done first, you could end up spending more money to get it all corrected (they may have to reinstall something or remove your installation to fix the problem or get an inspection.)

- If you have to call or meet with your contractor to ask for help, discuss methods or get advice, your contractor might (and probably should) charge you for his or her valuable expertise and time. Talk about it before you get your advice to find out if it will end up on your final invoice.

- If you are prepared to do a job on the site, you'll be treated like any other subcontractor and you'll be expected to do the work on time and meet quality standards. If you're not happy with your lumpy, uneven ceiling because you installed the drywall yourself... you might have to blame yourself. Or pay to have it corrected.

- If you are not available to be there when they need your work done, you could delay the timing and schedule of the job. You could end up losing a subcontractor who has to wait for you to complete your part of the job (because they'll move on to another jobsite) or you might have to pay them more to wait around.

You never want to discourage handy do-it-yourselfers from helping out on the job, saving a little money, and being able to brag about their work. But talk to your general contractor and make sure you've got some of these concerns answered so that there are no surprises.

Timothy K. Clark is the Director of Marketing for ConstructionDeal.com, a valuable website that matches Contractors with Property Owners for residential and commercial improvement, remodeling and repair projects. For more information, visit www.constructiondeal.com or call 866-663-4711

What You Need To Know When Choosing An Exterior Door

Exterior doors for your home come in a variety of materials, colors, and designs. New materials, such as vinyl have provided manufacturers with the ability to create exterior doors that need little maintenance, provide security, energy efficiency and add value to your home.

The front door of a home greats your guests and its styling says a lot about the home owner.

Wood

Wood exterior doors are desirable for their natural beauty and structural strength. They are widely available in a number of different woods ranging from pine, oak, cedar, mahogany, and walnut. They do however require significant protection from the elements as well as regular maintenance. Manufacturers are required to treat wood with a preservative to help prevent rotting but ongoing maintenance is the only way to ensure that your wood exterior door lasts and performs.

Steel

Steel exterior doors are actually made from a combination of materials. The interior structural components (rails and stiles) are often wood, the inner core is filed with insulating foam and the outer skin is made of galvanized steel. The inner wood structure gives it stability and strength. The foam core provides good insulation and the steel skins are durable, resistant to warping or rotting and require little maintenance.

Steel exterior doors can be painted any number of colors. They are also available with pre-finished PVC coatings that simulate a wood-grain finish.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass exterior doors are relatively new and are constructed in the same fashion as steel exterior doors with wood stiles and rails and an inner core of injected foam. The outer skin is fiberglass. Fiberglass is very strong, durable and energy efficient. In addition to a flat painted surface, fiberglass can also be embossed to give it the texture and appearance of wood.

Vinyl

Vinyl exterior doors are also relatively new. They employ a multi-chambered vinyl structure for both the frames and panels (sashes) utilizing a steel, aluminum, or wood re-enforcement to add strength and prevent distortion. Vinyl doors are good thermal insulators because of their multi-chambered designs and offer good thermal performance ratings. Vinyl is a very durable material and is resistant to extreme weather conditions. It is also very resistant to breakage and provides good protection against forced entry through the door. Vinyl doors will not rust, dent or scratch, and require no special maintenance.

For additional information on exterior doors for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

A Backyard Fire Pit Do It Yourself Today

If you've been looking at buying a fire pit, then you're probably already aware that you can buy ready-made models that only require some simple assembly. But wouldn't it be nice to create your own fire pit? One that's uniquely yours? You don't need a complicated set of blueprints to build your own fire pit - you just need to have an idea in your head of what you're trying to create. It doesn't take a lot to build a fire pit for barbequing or an outdoor campfire. A DIY fire pit can cost next to nothing to construct, apart from some time and hard work, and is even cheaper if you already have some materials such as bricks or rocks on hand.

The first step is to choose a safe location for your fire pit. Make sure it's nowhere near any structures that could catch fire, and locate it away from any backyard traffic zones. It's also worth talking to your local fire department in case you need to know any particular rules or information before starting. Organize to have some stones or bricks ready for lining the inside of your fire pit. Then all you need to do is dig the hole. This might take a few hours of hard work with a shovel, but that's all.

Once your hole is deep enough, use the stones or bricks to line the perimeter of the hole, and continue these materials above the ground. You need the stones around the top to form a windbreak and to stop soil falling into the fire. If you want something a little fancier, you can build a stucco pit above the ground. Use magazines and the Internet to help give you lots of great ideas for your fire pit design. Think about your existing home and outdoor furniture, and design your fire pit to complement these existing elements in your backyard. If you're really stuck for ideas or want to create something a little more complicated, it's possible to order plans online that include a list of materials, and it's generally not very expensive.

Now you have a fire pit, safety is always important. Remember, this is a big hole in the ground, and you don't want any accidents. So it might be a good idea to cover the pit when it's not being used. You can just use a piece of scrap metal or wooden board and cut it to fit. You can also choose to buy a basic fire pit, which will generally include the basics such as a cover, log grill and spark screen, and then build a brick or stone wall around that. This will help stop pets or children from running into the fire pit by accident.

For a gas fire pit, you will need to buy either gas fire logs or a simple metal fire ring. Then you simply need to design and build the housing.

Whatever you decided, it's great to do it yourself and have a fire pit that will be the envy of all your neighbors.

If you want to read more about outdoor fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Travertine Tile Flooring Classical Tile in the Modern Age

Travertine tile is a durable and attractive natural stone in a class by itself. Famous structures like the Roman Coliseum stand as a tribute to the long-lasting nature of travertine as a building material. There are many installers and DIYers today who have used travertine tile as both flooring and as wall tile who will also sing its praises as a practical and uniquely decorative addition to their interiors and exteriors. So, travertine tile has been used and relied upon as tile for thousands of years, holding a place in the development of civilization from the Ancient Greeks, to the Roman Empire, and onto today?s modern age in equal measure. But what are some of the defining characteristics of travertine which sets it apart from other natural stone flooring and tile options?

Origins of travertine

Travertine is related to marble, actually falling somewhere between marble and limestone in terms of its development over thousands of years. Travertine is formed by subterranean springs, underground rivers, and other water sources. These water sources carry mineral elements such as calcium carbonate that build up over long periods of time in the same way stalactites and stalagmites in caves are formed. The resultant stone is a smooth and very hard substance further characterized by its porous surface. These pores are the result of gases escaping as the travertine is formed. By the time it is quarried, travertine is naturally beautiful ? a smooth, dense stone that exhibits a notable creamy color that evokes a certain old-world refinement. Commonly found in Italy and Turkey, travertine remains to be a popular import for construction products all over the world, including North America.

Processing travertine tile

Travertine is removed from the earth in large blocks before it is cut into what can be recognized as travertine tile. It may be cut in any of the following ways:

Cross-cut ? The travertine is cut with the grain of the stone bedding and on the same layer as it is formed in the earth. This makes for a more uniform texture and color

Vein cut ? the travertine is cut across several layers of the stone bedding, making for a more mottled, tiger-stripe effect when cut into tiles

After the travertine is quarried, it is strictly selected for color variances, and further assessed after it is cut for holes and chipped edges. Beyond the selection process, the travertine may be subject to any of the following processes

Honed ? the surface of the tile is sanded to create a matte finish

Tumbled ? the travertine is literally tumbled with gravel and bearings, giving it a rough-hewn, aged appearance.

Brushed ? a wire brush is used to give the surface of the travertine tile a worn, textured surface

Filled ? The pores in the travertine tile are filled with colored resin or cement to produce a pristine, solid surface

Polished ? the travertine is sanded and polished, producing a shiny look

Popular uses of travertine tile

As old an option it is for a sturdy and reliable building material, travertine tile remains to be a highly diverse natural stone, suitable for all kinds of applications. Travertine was used in the ancient world, but can also be found as a major component of many modern buildings such as the Getty Centre in Los Angeles, and the UCLA medical centre. Travertine tile is used as floor tile in both residential and commercial settings, as well as a decorative option for wall cladding and backsplashes. Travertine tile has both indoor and outdoor uses, being a durable stone, and can be both functional and aesthetically striking. A featured design element of which anyone would find to be a source of pride, the popularity of travertine seems to be undiminished. In fact, it?s getting more popular!

A selected travertine checklist:

Do your research! Ask questions of the experts ? the salespeople, local tile installers, owners of travertine tile, and other sources. They can help you make an informed purchase. Knowledge is the best means of achieving the results you want.

Consider where you wish to install your travertine tile; what kind of conditions will it need to be able to withstand? Foot traffic and moisture levels should be the most obvious considerations, as well as any spillage or staining problems that may arise from your young children or pets.

With the location in mind, think about the issue of finish. This should help you to choose the kind of finish that would be the most suitable. Tumbled or brushed travertine tile may answer the slip-resistance question. But honed or polished may meet your visual requirements. Weigh the pros and cons, always balancing visuals with practicality

Choose an appropriate sealer. This is an important step regardless of which type of travertine tile you choose. Consult the experts ? your local retailers of stone products can help with this ? on which products are best for your particular choice in travertine tile. As always, follow the instructions on any the labels of any products you do buy to make sure you get the results you?re after.

When you finally get your travertine, expect there to be slight color variances. Despite the fact that there has already been a selection process for color variation, travertine tile is still a natural product with varying degree of mineral deposits from tile to tile. But you can use this to your advantage. Open all boxes and try a dry run using all of the tiles in your batch. Be creative!

Read your warranty before you start your installation. Check for any broken tiles, take pictures if you have to, and work out any shipping issues with your seller before it?s too late to resolve them.

Travertine tile offers subtle yet rich tones to any interior or exterior, as well as a level of long-lasting durability which makes it a reliable material as well as a decorative one. A travertine tile installation links your interior or exterior with a architectural tradition that goes back thousands of years, as well a linking it to an ongoing tradition likely to last for thousands more!

Rob Jones is Communications Coordinator with BuildDirect, a leading online wholesaler of building products. Rob writes articles for commercial contractors and DIYers on features, installation, and maintenance of building materials used in commercial and residential projects. These articles focus on materials such as flooring, decking, roofing, and siding, and other related topics.

Guide to Bathroom Design

The first step is to plan the design ? as with kitchens, your local supplier will run off a computer-generated plan based on the room?s dimensions and your particular requirements.

If you?re sticking with the same layout, measure your bathroom suite carefully before you go shopping for a replacement so that you know the new items will fit.

Re-plumbing and re-wiring will push the cost up so stick with the existing service points if possible ? although this may be unavoidable if you want to change the position of the bathroom suite.

First decide on the right place for the bath and/or shower. If your loo is in your bathroom, decide where this will go and then position the washbasin.

Once the fittings are planned you can work out how to use the remaining space which, in modern bathrooms, may be quite limited. Some kind of storage, either cupboards or shelves ? preferably both ? is required for toiletries, cleaning products, toilet rolls and children?s bath toys. If your bathroom is spacious you may also keep clean towels and your linen basket in there.

Choosing the bath and basin can be a time-consuming task. Even if you?re not opting for something like a jaccuzzi or indoor hot tub, baths come in all shapes and sizes ? standard oblong, rolltop, corner, curved, wider at one end than the other ? and colours. Unless you desperately yearn for a particular colour it?s best to stick with white. It?s clean-looking, inoffensive and will go with any colour you decide to use for paint and furnishings.

Taps, too, come in a bewildering array of styles ? choose a design that will complement your bathroom.

Before making your final decision on the bathroom suite it is helpful to check your plans with your plumber to see if there are any potential snags with the designs you have picked.

Even if your window has frosted glass make sure you have a curtain or blind with ?blackout? lining unless you want neighbours or passers-by watching the silhouette of you bathing, washing or worse.

When it comes to decoration, remember to use ? or specify, if someone else is doing the work ? grout that is resistant to steam and water. Similarly, choose paint and wallpaper that will stand up to heat and steam ? look in the ever-expanding ?kitchen and bathroom? ranges.

Pale colours brighten a small bathroom, especially one with no natural daylight but it?s fun to experiment with colour. And a large mirror across one wall, especially the wall opposite the window, will help make a small bathroom look and feel much bigger and lighter.

Floor coverings, too, come in all types of material and colour ? but avoid carpet which is impractical and unhygienic in a bathroom. Vinyl, cork tiles or lino are good choices ? warm underfoot and easy to clean. However, if the surface you choose is shiny always use a non-slip washable rug for extra safety.

If you?re installing a shower ? either as a separate feature or above the bath ? investigate the different types before deciding which to choose. If you have high water pressure you could opt for a thermo shower which is connected direct to your heating system and keeps the water temperature even.

An electric shower system heats the water itself and is mostly used above the bath. Power showers will give you the ultimate shower experience, even if you have low water pressure.

Look for a non-slip surface in both bath and shower. Check with your plumber that the drainage can take the amount of water your shower is producing ? an overflowing shower tray can cause serious problems.

Above all, the main thing to remember when redesigning your bathroom is ? choose a design that works for your lifestyle.

Barry Dunlop is the Founder of Bathroom-Buyers-Guide.com - The site that promises you lots of tips, advice and help to plan, design and buy your dream bathroom! Find out more at his http://www.bathroom-buyers-guide.com

Home Security: How to Defend Your Home When You Are Away

Is your home going to be empty for several days while you go on vacation? That's when your home or apartment is most vulnerable to break-ins.

Here are several specific things you can do to ensure your home stays safe even when you are away.

* The best defense for your home is to have a house sitter. There's no getting around it. A house where someone is staying is almost always safer than a house that's empty. See if you can get a trusted friend or relative to stay at home while you are away.

* Stop your mail delivery and newspaper delivery for the entire time you are away. An overflowing mailbox or piles of newspaper advertises that no one's home. Alternatively, get a neighbor to collect them regularly.

* Similarly, if you keep a garden or have potted plants that are visible, get someone to come in regularly and maintain them. Wilted and dying plants are another signal that the house is uninhabited. At the very least, move the potted plants out of sight.

* Put lights as well as TV / radio on timers. Put lights on timers in multiple rooms. Try to create a natural-looking sequence for the lights. Set the timer to turn on the living room lights at sunset. Later on, at your regular bedtime, set it to switch off the living room lights and turn on the bedroom lights at around the same time.

If you regularly turn on the TV at 8:00 pm and it remains switched on till 11:00 pm, set the timer accordingly. Quite often, even if the lights are on, the absence of the bluish glow from the TV can give away the fact that no one's really home.

* Ask a neighbor to drop into your house regularly, if you don't have a house sitter. Windows being opened and closed, curtains being worked and so on are signs that someone is home.

* If you live in a rented home or apartment, you may want to notify your landlord that you will be away. In fact, some lease agreements stipulate that you must inform them if you are going away. Some landlords like to keep an eye on an empty house, even if they don't enter it.

* If you have an alarm system installed, make sure the house sitter knows how to operate it.

* Leave your contact details with the house sitter and/or neighbor. Whoever is checking on the house should know who they should call if there is a problem.

Joe Timbers has written on home security ideas including how to enhance home security, home security tips while on vacation and more. Click on the previous links to see some of his articles.

Wallpaper Removal A Quick and Easy HowTo

A word of warning upfront, if you have a wallpaper removal task ahead of you?re your in for a bit of work. Make sure you set aside a considerable amount of time for this project as you may run into tough spots and problem areas that will eat up a lot of time. Removing wallpaper however, while not a fun task, can be done quickly and easily if you are prepared.

First get the room ready. Remove everything from the room that can be removed. This includes furniture and rugs where possible. When the room is emptied cover the floor with a drop cloth in the area you will be working. This will aid in cleanup later.

Now get all of your tools together:

?Goggles
?Mask
?Perforator
?Bucket
?Sponge
?Glue Dissolving Agent
?Blunt Scraper
?Sharp Scraper

Goggles and a mask are on the list first for a good reason. You will have little pieces of who knows how old paper with who know what kind of glue on it flying and dripping all over the place. Wear the goggles and the mask whenever you are doing the least bit of work.

I can?t underestimate the importance of the perforator. They come in a couple styles and sizes. Get the one that is most appropriate to the amount of paper you have to remove. The perforator is pretty simple to use. With a slight amount of pressure you roll it around the wall and it makes little divots into the paper. Be careful not to press to hard as you do not want to dig into the wall itself.

Next is preparing your solution. The commercial products work well, but I?ve had good results with warm water and vinegar. If you are going to use the commercial products, be sure to follow their instructions as to mixture ratios. For the vinegar solution, 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water is sufficient for most glues. Add more vinegar if you are having difficulties.

Ok, so we?re ready to start soaking the walls. Pick a spot, not to large, and get it thoroughly wet with your sponge and solution. Some people like to use a sprayer as well, but I find the sponge and a little pressure works better. Don?t be shy about wetting the wall. Your solution needs to soak through the paper and loosen the glue. You may have to repeat this step depending on your situation.

Now comes the scrapping. Use a blunt scrapper or even a putty knife to start with. You want to avoid nicking or gauging the wall underneath to save the trouble of spackling later on. Use slow even strokes to remove the paper. If it is loose enough it will simply melt off the wall. If not, wet it again. If you continue to have trouble, you may have to switch to the sharp scrapper. Be very careful though, of both your fingers and the wall!

Once all the paper if off, you may have to repeat this process to remove extra paper layers or even a glue layer that may be left behind. You want to get all the way down to the plaster or drywall. Then, spackle any nicks or holes smooth, clean up the mess and paint to suit. Oh, and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

D. David Dugan has a website, http://homeimprovement.divinfo.com to help homeowners find all the information they need about remodeling, home repair, building decks and carports, room additions, and more. He also actively participates in an article directory at http://www.articlemotron.com that has current and up to date information on many topics.

Diwali Diyas

Diwali Diya is a small earthen lamp that is lit especially at Indian Festival Of Lights Diwali. They are usually made of clay. Ghee or oil is used as the fuel and cotton wool as the wick. Though in these days electric lights are replacing earthen Diyas, still the charm of traditional Diwali Hindu Lamps is there. These Diwali diyas are used for offering prayers to Gods and the deceased ancestors, are floated on leaves over the holy rivers like the Ganges at Haridwar.They have long been linked with Diwali tradition and are today the most integral of all the Diwali decorations.

Tradition Of Diwali Diyas:

It is said that when Lord Rama returned to Ayodhya after 14 years of exile, the people were overjoyed to see him along with Sita and Lakshman. Since it was a no moon night, people lit up candles and diyas along Lord Rama?s path. Once he reached his abode, there was also a dazzling display of fireworks. Everybody sang, and danced in celebration and welcomed their king with open arms and hearts. Since then, each year that day came to be celebrated as Diwali, and the Diwali Diya became its most conspicuous feature. Today these small earthen lamps can be found lit in every home, office and temple.

Different Types Of Diyas:

Beautifully crafted diyas beckon attention of the buyers. The earthen diya used on the occasion of Diwali, reflects ancient design sense that is simple and stunning in concept and universal in appeal. The Diwali season sees a proliferation of clay creativity ranging from roadside agals to designer diyas displayed in art and craft boutiques.

During Diwali, various shops showcase brilliant diwali diyas and lamps crafted by ceramic designers from all over the country. There are also diyas with zari and mirror in exuberant colours. Delightfully, imaginative diyas with sharply cut edges, embellished with cut work are covered and filled with bright coloured wax.

Mirror work and zari embellished deep, traditional diyas as well as those embellished with fragrant dried flowers, Ganesha and Lakshmi diyas with 21 or 11 spouts, diyas shaped like China leaves and shaded roses, tiny Parvati Ganesha lamps and many other design vie for attention. Made out of clay, the diyas in vivid shades of yellow, blue, pink, gold and silver are well crafted.

In each legend, myth and story of Deepawali lies the significance of the victory of good over evil; and it is with each Deepawali and the lights that illuminate the homes and hearts, that this simple truth finds new reason and hope. Since baked-mud 'diyas' or 'deeps' are considered more holy and auspicious, they are purchased to light on the Diwali night, particularly before the idols or photographs of gods and goddesses while offering prayers.

Shoppe

Septic Systems A Short Story

What would inspire me to write about septic systems? Maybe it's part in parcel with my fascination with composting and recycling? Maybe I'm just a garbage hound at heart! No - seriously, it's more that my travels as a home inspector have led me to focus on these delightful systems. I don't think I'll ever opt for a career in septic inspection, but I have gained a basic understanding of what constitutes a normal, functioning sewage disposal system.

Installing a private septic for a rural home includes soil tests, site inspections and considerable excavation work. Because of the design considerations and the amount of digging required, you probably wouldn't want to build your own; but to maintain it properly, you should know how it operates. Waste is piped out of the house into one side of a cement box called a septic tank, where bacteria break it down into solids (sludge), liquid (effluent), and scum. The sludge sinks to the bottom, the scum floats to the top, and the effluent flows into the other side, and then out through perforated pipes (drainage tile) buried in a leaching bed of loose gravel (also known as the septic field).

Sewage and The Law!

Government regulations specifically prohibit any renovations or additions to a home which are likely to affect the operation or effectiveness of a sewage system. If you're on a septic, adding a bedroom to your house (even without adding a bathroom) might mean having to increase the size of your tank and field. The regulations further state that any construction or alteration of a septic requires a Certificate of Approval issued by the Ministry or department responsible.

If you have questions about the care and operation of your septic system, call your Municipal Office, Health Department, Environment Canada, or any licensed sewage contractor listed in the Yellow Pages.

There's no hard and fast rule for pumping intervals, but an inspection and pump-out every third year are recommended. Don't allow meat by-products or harsh chemicals to enter your septic, and avoid the use of commercial tank cleaners or treatments. Don't plant trees on the field, and never drive over it!

By the way, greener grass over the septic is NOT usually a good sign!

Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

How to Deal With Contractors (So You Won't Go Mad!)

BE PREPARED -- Building a house is lots of fun, but it?s a huge time investment, too. There?s a ton of paperwork and planning, so it?s essential to establish a system to stay organized. You may have collected articles, paint samples, roofing samples, etc, etc. over the past few months (or years, depending on how long you?ve been dreaming of this!) that you want to incorporate into your new house. A see- through plastic bin is handy for keeping your miscellaneous items in, so you can sift through them every so often. Sometimes it?s a good way to keep your goal in mind if you periodically look at the items in the box, as a little reminder of what you?re going for.

Keep a good filing system. You?ll be getting a lot of quotes (a word to the wise: don?t get too many quotes for each job ? establish what a reasonable rate for the job at hand is, then settle on a contractor you?re comfortable with. Remember, the cheapest guy isn?t always the best, and neither is the most expensive one, necessarily?). Quotes that require a lot of detail (Framing, Foundation, Drywall, Mechanical, Cabinetry, etc.) should be kept intact.

Make a copy of the original quote, then block out the prices and use that for the new quotes. That way, you?re comparing apples to apples, oranges to oranges. (Word to the wise -- Dwight insisted on this going in, although I don't agree with it. I have found that just asking for a Complete Quote, stating the exact same information, will give me a much better 'feel' for the Contractor. You can tell right from the beginning if the guy is trying to pull the wool over your eyes -- stay away from this type -- it only gets worse. This kind of guy will give you a quote that seems very reasonable, but often leaves out crucial components.

We had a number of situations like this during this Build -- the first quote for the Basement -- and it was extremely detailed -- was $20,000. higher than the other quotes. I know -- craaazy! You gotta watch out and stay on your toes! The Cabinetry quotes were all over the board, and the Drywall for the Garage alone varied from $2,500. to $9,500. Our house cost was cut down by at least $40,000., just by shopping around and really reading the quotes.) It?s not fair to get two different quotes and one includes the cement for the foundation and the other is only for the cribbing? asking for a complete quote might eliminate this situation, but being careful from the outset will save you a lot of bother, later.

Sometimes, you may notice that you?ll get very different ?complete quotes?. We have found that the quote you get is often a ?forewarner? of the work you?ll get. If it takes a ridiculous amount of time to even get the quote, and you can?t get the guy to return your phone calls, that?s probably what it?ll be like when he?s actually working for you, if you give him the job. If the quote is sloppy (we call them ?napkin quotes?, since they?re scribbled out on a napkin from the restaurant, so you have to look through the coffee stains to see the numbers, or on a crumpled up piece of paper!), the workmanship might be careless, too. Keep in mind that prices go up over time, so if the quote is old, it?ll need to be up-dated before any work commences.

Also, mistakes happen, so go over your quote to make sure that it is relatively accurate ? you should never be responsible for knowing exactly how many screws will be required for the project (how are you paying for this?! Ha,ha,ha!), but you should check the windows and doors, what?s included in each package, to make sure it?s actually for your house!

Be sure to go over the Check List of every step that must be followed. Missing a step (like permits!) can cost you time and money (jail time in some States, if you haven?t gone through the right authorities to make sure you can build what you want ? be especially careful with this if you live in an historical neighborhood).

BE DECISIVE -- It's important to have a clear idea of what you want in your home before you start to build, or even draw. The more you decide early, the fewer distractions and delays that will happen later. This is not to say that you can't or shouldn't make changes throughout the project, but be prepared to make quick decisions on those changes. Fence sitting or being wishy-washy will drive everyone crazy.

Keep in mind that if your contractor asks you more than once or twice about something you haven't made your mind up on, he'll probably head off to another job, and you may not see him again for a while! The reality of a contractor's life is that he'll have many projects going at the same time, so don't think he'll wait around and hold your hand while you decide on a tile? it ain't gonna happen. Be decisive and clear - you'll save time and money.

BE NICE -- I love the stories from people who say proudly, 'Yeah, I really ground my contractor down', and 'I told my contractor off, this morning. He left, but I think he's coming back later, today?' Ha,ha,ha,ha! Those crazy nuts! That's a great way to get rid of your contractor, and make it very difficult to find another one. Contractors are, for the most part, connected. And maybe a little gossipy? what do you think they talk about while they drink all that coffee?! Ha,ha. Also, if you bring in another contractor to finish another guy's work, they'll know immediately that there was conflict on-site, and they may be reluctant to get involved. The bottom line is, be respectful of your contractors as you expect them to be respectful of you. If you do have an issue, meet off-site to discuss the situation and come to a resolution.

Word to the Wise: Normally this is sound advice, but sometimes you will find yourself faced with a crisis that needs to be dealt with head on...like the one we had with our first carpenter. We gave him as many chances as we could before I had to confront him on the job about his work. It was very unpleasant, but I had to let him go -- the whole Job was suffering because of this one guy.

The real key, even in this case, is that we knew we had Trevor (our favorite Carpenter!) waiting in the wings before we said anything to the first guy... better safe than sorry!

BE REALISTIC -- Set a time frame that is reasonable. When you're starting from scratch, it takes weeks or months for many stages. The plans and blueprints can easily take 3 months or more, depending on how elaborate your plans are. The actual building process is quite quick if you have planned everything out in advance, but you should still allot at least 3 - 8 months for the building process. Then be prepared for another couple of months if things go wrong. It's been known to happen! Have a back up plan for where you will live if you have a specific move-out date in your current home so you won't be panicked if your new house isn't even at lock-up stage and the moving van is at your door!

Remember, again, that you're are probably not your contractor's only client, so you may or may not be at the top of his priority list. (Calling him at home at 6:00a.m. every day will not put you higher on the list, just so you know - we've had people try that!) Keep this in mind when you have a short time frame - it's amazing how much easier it is to schmooze when you're desperate!

One more thing - I notice that there's a lot of crappy advice out there on 'How to Find a Contractor'. 359 Thousand Easy Questions to Ask a Builder. Puh-leeease. Like they're gonna respond well to that! Gimme a break! Do these people know any contractors?! You need basic information - How much is it? Are you available? When will you be available? Can you recommend any other trades? Keep it simple. Meet face-to-face. Go see some of his previous work. Don't annoy people from 10 years ago who had work done by the contractor. Would you like someone calling you? Asking a million stupid questions will raise a red flag for the contractor that this potential client is more likely to be a potential pain in the shirt. Contractors are (generally speaking) so busy that they don't need the hassle. Also, if the contractor has a group of sub-trades that he regularly works with, it'll be waaay easier to keep track of everyone once the project gets underway, which will make the whole thing much easier all round.

BE FLEXIBLE --No. This does not mean bending over backwards for your contractor (although, truth be told, they might like to see that ?ha,ha). It just means that if your significant other really, really, reallllly wants Sand Beige, and you have your heart set on Evening Taupe (yes, it's practically the same shade, but couples often have major disagreements over tiny, tiny issues), go with whatever gets you in the house. Maybe you can choose the five foot tall gargoyles for the top of the fireplace, then let there be a compromise. 'Okay, you go two shades up on the colour and I'll give up on the gargoyles on the mantel ?' Voila! You've got what you wanted! (Don't try this little ploy if your spouse actually likes indoor gargoyles!)

Building a house (or any other joint effort that involves hammers and paint) can be very trying on a relationship. Be sure to work out problems as they arise - letting things stew will not make the project easier. Reassure each other when necessary, then randomly after that! Keep your eye on the prize -- you'll both love the house when it's done. Hey, you can use your Air Miles Credit Card when you're buying the million things you need to build the house, that way you'll have accumulated enough points to take a well deserved break at the end of the job! Hawaii, here we come!

BE POSITIVE -- Keeping a positive attitude always helps the situation. Chances are pretty high that you'll encounter difficulties, or things that you hadn't anticipated. Don't spiral downwards - it won't help. Stay focussed; find a solution. Have you ever talked to someone who is always spinning a negative tale? Can you get away from them fast enough?! Ugh. Nothing worse. You want to maintain a positive outlook on the whole thing. You'll be surprised by how that affects everyone around the construction site. (Oh, yeah. Don't be a pest, either. Visit from time to time, but 'supervising' professionals is totally annoying and will slow up the work. They're there to build, not teach, so you can ask the odd question and make nice comments, but that's about it - the less said, the better. You can bring treats and cold drinks, though - everyone will love that!) Also, to the untrained eye, a project might appear to be 10% done when in reality it is 80% completed, so uninformed comments from the peanut gallery will not be appreciated. People work best when they're praised, appreciated, and fairly paid. (Okay, here's my last little addition-make sure you pay your contractor. Seems simple, but it makes a big difference on future work - either different work or maintenance on the current work.) Good stuff to keep in mind when you're at the building site.

Ailsa Forshaw is a Writer, Builder, Website Owner & Manager, Teacher, Mother... all in Alberta, Canada. She is Married with Two Lovely Children, and one gorgeous wee dog. Her Website, http://www.buildyourownhouse.ca, is chock full of all sorts of useful & fun information to help anyone become Financially Successful, Slim, Trim, and Happy... what more could you want?? Pop in for a wee visit! http://www.buildyourownhouse.ca http://www.theScottishDiet.com

Building the Smallest Room

When I read one reader's story about nailing a beam through the ladder rungs, and how her father cursed... and cursed, and cursed and cursed...

Well, I had to think of one day a few years ago... I was building a washroom by the back door, just around the corner from the head of the basement stairs. Really just a loo, you know, a 6X6 closet with a sink, vanity and toilet. It was all done, and none too soon, because I was just about out of steam and running real low on patience. This weekend project had dragged on into the end of next week, and very little had gone smoothly. Sometimes it's like that.

Anyways, the plumbing and electrical were done; the walls were finally built, drywalled, tiled and trimmed, inside and out. The door was on, the floor was down, the sink was in, the lights were

up and the fan was on high! Only one detail remained unfinished. The toilet! The essence of the loo, the throne, the crowning glory! My wife was preparing to crack the champagne as I wrestled the big bowl into place and bolted 'er down!

Now! The tank - two screws, a coupling and then a great, grand oak seat with real brass hardware. Oh boy, we're gonna Christen this thing in about five minutes! Clunk? Clank, scrape, thud?

Whaaaat!!! There's no room. Whadya mean there's no room?! There's no room - it doesn't fit... @#%$*!! and of all the %#$%@&*!! I had somehow mis-measured, or missed my mark - the toilet flange was too close to the wall! I needed another 4 inches or so (pretty incredible, eh?) and I sure didn't want to move the flange because, be damned if I was going to ruin that new floor!

So, I sulked for a couple hours in the cellar, swearing I'd never build anything again as long as I lived. And then, eureka! I know - I'll frame a hole in the wall for the tank. Yeah! Yeah, that's it - and I'll trim it and paint it and then I'll tell everyone that I did it that way to gain floor space. Great!

So, I cut a hole in the wall, lined and trimmed it, painted it and waited. I got up real early the next day and very calmly, and very resolutely, proceded to install the toilet. Clunk? Clank, scrape, thud? Whaaaat!!! It doesn't fit! Whadya mean it doesn't fit?! I built the *%&#$@!! hole in the wrong place!!

So, I sulked for a couple hours in the cellar ...

Re-frame the hole, line and trim it, paint it, wait overnight, and yes - finally, the toilet fit! Let me tell you, when I sit on that throne these days; well, I get tired just thinking about it, but we do appreciate the extra floor space!

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
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Factors that Constitute a Quality Laminate Floor

Laminate floors range in price from 0.89c s/f to as much as $7.99 s/f. So why should you spend the big bucks, when at the end of the day they all look the same?

First let us analyze the warranty factors. An entry level laminate floor which sells for in the region of 0.89c s/f to $1.39s/f probably comes with a warranty ranging from between 10 to 15 years, as opposed to a better quality laminate that sells for more and carries a warranty ranging from 25 years to lifetime. A comprehensive laminate warranty covers the following aspects of the floors performance: factory defect, normal wear and tear, fading, staining, denting and water resistance. A lower end warranty might not cover all of these aspects, and although the advertised warranty states ten years, this might refer to manufacturer?s defects only, whereas the performance aspect of the warranty might only cover a five year period. Also consider that although the wear and tear aspect of a laminate warranty covers a certain period, this does not reflect the fact that the floor might start to show wear and tear or loose its original luster after a few years of use.

Today, most laminate floor surfaces are treated with Aluminum Oxide, which makes these floors highly durable in terms of scratching and denting. However not all floors are created equal in that certain laminates receive up to nine coatings of aluminum oxide, whereas a lower quality floor might only be treated with a few layers of Aluminum Oxide. This translates into a scenario where these few layers of Aluminum Oxide will wear through in a short period of time, and conversely a floor with additional coatings will perform better when subjected to heavy foot traffic, and for a longer period of time.

Laminate floor cores range in thickness from 7mm to 12mm, with a thicker core offering more stability, making it less likely to buckle if subjected to high levels of moisture in the air, as well as offering a floor that is quieter to walk on. The other aspect of laminate floor cores is the ability of the floor to resist swelling when affected by water and sub-floor moisture. A good quality laminate floor core is treated with water repellent chemicals, which protect the floor from swelling when breached by water or excessive levels of sub-floor moisture. A good core should be coupled with a tongue and groove configuration that is also treated with water repellent chemicals, such as impregnated wax, which will prevent topical liquid spills from penetrating through to the laminate core.

Joint integrity refers to the ability of the tongue and groove locking mechanism to withstand the weight of heavy objects, as well as perform over the life of the floor. The locking mechanism of a good quality laminate floor is designed to withstand the weight of heavy household furniture and fit tightly together negating gapping or separation. Since the advent of glueless laminate floors, many manufacturers have invested large sums of money in research and development in search of a locking mechanism that will not fail even when subjected to abnormally high levels of impact force or weight. The most successful configurations, in terms of binding strength and durability are patented and sold to other manufacturers.

Lastly, when purchasing a name brand laminate floor, one is not paying merely for the name, but for the quality of the materials, precise levels of engineering, and many years of research and development invested in the design and manufacturing process.

This flooring article was written by Barry H. Get more tips and techniques at: Online Laminate Flooring Resources

DIY Methods to Save on Utilities

If your utility bill is out of control, you need to consider ways to tame the beast. There are plenty of do it yourself [DIY ways to save on utilities.

DIY Methods to Save on Utilities

Utility costs for heating, cooling and electricity are near record highs. Worse, they are expected to rise fairly dramatically over the next few years. Since you will live in a residence for the rest of your life, making small changes to save money on utilities will save you tens of thousands of dollars, if not more. Here are some areas to check out and fix to start saving some bucks.

Leaks and drafts from the interior of your home to the exterior can easily double your utility bill. There are a couple of obvious areas to check out such as windows, frames around doors, fireplaces and entrances to attics. Less obvious spots to check include gaps around electric outlets, mail slots, pipes, spaces around baseboards and gaps around air conditioners where the interface with the exterior. If you find gaps, caulking can often take care of the problem or you can pursue a weekend DIY repair.

Insulation in a home can be a real problem when it comes to utilities. Since I hope to avoid getting sued, let me just suggest builders tend to use the minimum amount and grade of insulation required by regulations when building homes. If you live in a tract home, this may be all the more true.

If you seal the areas where you have drafts, but the heater or air conditioner is still turning on every few minutes, insulation may be a problem. Inspecting insulation isn?t the easiest or most comfortable task. The easiest method is to first climb into the attic and see if there is any exposed insulation. Unfortunately, the grade of insulation in the ceiling may not match the grade in the walls.

To check the walls, the best bet is to find a small are where you might have a hole. Closets are typical spots. If you have kids, look for areas where a doorknob has punched through a wall. If none of these are available, you can remove a small surface area in a closet. Once done, determine if the entire area is filled with insulation as well as the R grade of your insulation. Compare it to recommended grades in your area. You can then patch the area and nobody will be the wiser. If all else fails, get a thermal inspection for a professional.

Most people are not going to need to blow out their insulation. Doing so will help, but sealing a home will go a long way to cutting your utility costs. With this in mind, give your home the once over.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies. Visit us to read more articles on solar power and home energy audit checklist.