Common CCTV DVR DIY Mistakes

This article will attempt to reveal some of the more common mistakes to avoid when creating your own CCTV DVR.

Budget:

Many DIY'ers simply do not budget enough money for projects like this. When looking at cameras, look at the specs. A $200 security camera and a $50 security camera are going to be very different in terms of image quality and light response. Also look at CCTV DVR features. Places like Costco offer surveillance systems for under $500 but those surveillance systems don't have anywhere near the features of professional grade systems like Video Insight. Those systems can even be missing basic features like video motion detection. You may want to look for surveillance packages that combine everything you need to put a system together, including the CCTV DVR, security cameras, security camera lens's, mounts, power supplies, and cable. Packages like that can start at about $2000 and go up to $10,000 depending on the number of security cameras needed.

Surveillance Camera Placement:

Surveillance camera placement is one of the most important factors in an effective surveillance camera system. Ask yourself the questions professionals do: How is the light coming in? How will this change at night? What am I trying to see? How do people move through the area? What kind of blind spots will there be? What kind of surveillance camera lens do I need to use? Do I need to use multiple surveillance cameras to cover this area? Would a side view be better for this then a straight on view?

Selecting the right security cameras:

When looking at security cameras, understand what you are trying to do. Are you looking for license plate recognition? If so, then you need to select a camera lens that will allow the plate to be at least 1/3 of the image. This means that a surveillance camera with a wider field of view can not do license plate recognition. The same goes for facial recognition. If you are trying to cover a parking lot with a narrow entrance, you will have to use two surveillance cameras. Very wide entrances can make this very, very hard.

Selecting the right camera lens:

Selecting the right camera lens is pretty easy. Note where you are going to place the camera and select the point where you want the best picture. Measure the distance from there to the camera. That is your focal distance. Then measure the width of the picture you want to see. Once you have these numbers you can feed them into a CCTV lens calculator. Looking at the F-stop will give an idea of how well that lens will work at night.

Infrared or No?:

Infrared cameras are wonderful for covering areas of complete darkness. But many of the all-in-one camera/emitter units are fairly limited in range. This chart can help with deciding if you need to go the infrared route or not.

• Direct sunlight: 100,000 - 130,000 lux
• Full daylight, indirect sunlight: 10,000 - 20,000 lux
• Overcast day: 1,000 lux
• Indoor office: 200 - 400 lux
• Very dark day: 100 lux
• Twilight: 10 lux
• Deep twilight: 1 lux
• Full moon: 0.1 lux
• Quarter moon: 0.01 lux
• Moonless clear night sky: 0.001 lux
• Moonless overcast night sky: 0.0001 lux

Focusing the video camera:

This is a simple and easy trick to help with focusing the video cameras. Use a BNC to RCA plug and a small television set to focus the video camera. The ideal time to focus the video cameras is in twilight because it will give the best compromise between the light and dark settings of the auto-iris lens.

Cable types:

There are a few types of cable called RG-59. Copper vs. Aluminum sheet and 75% braid vs. 95% braid. For CCTV system work, you should always use copper shielding. Aluminum shielding is meant for modulated signals like cable and allows too much interference for CCTV systems. 75% braid and 95% braid measure how tightly and how much copper is used in the copper sheathing. 95% copper braided cable is more expensive but worth the extra expense. It is much more effective at preventing interference, and much more forgiving of mistakes. We only sell 95% braid copper shielded RG-59

Cable runs and Ground loops:

Coax cable should be kept at least 12 away from any power lines and power conduits. The AC power creates a field of interference that will appear like snow on the screen. This can create havoc with motion detection. Ground loops can be caused by securing cameras to metal structures that have a different electrical ground then the power supply. This will cause bands to move through the screen. Solving this is a matter of eliminating contact between the cameras and the source of the ground.

Sony Cameras:

Sony has a line of CCTV surveillance cameras, but all of them are clearly marked Sony. You will see a lot of sites offer Sony cameras when they don't say Sony on them. The reason for this is that Sony makes about 75% of the worlds CCD chips, which are used in everything from Camcorders to digital cameras to CCTV security cameras. The CCD is an important part of the security camera and has an impact on the resolution, but the electronics behind the CCD also have a big role in how good your image is.

What determines how good my image is?:

How good your image is depends on quite a few things. It depends on how good your lens is, how well it is focused, what the resolution is, and how good the S/N (Signal to noise) ratio is. When looking at a camera, you generally want both the highest resolution and the highest S/N ratio you can find. The Signal to noise ratio is a Logarithmic scale so the difference between 46 dB and 48 dB is a rather large difference. If forced to select between a camera with a slightly lower resolution and a high S/N ratio or a camera with a higher resolution and lower S/N ratio, try to select the one with the better S/N ratio if you are doing longer (500 ft+) cable runs. For shorter runs going with the higher resolution is okay.

How many FPS do I need?:

Many manufacturers and distributors will try to push their highest frame rate DVR's and Cards on you because those items have the best profit margins. But high frame rates may not be in your best interests from both a storage and budgetary perspective. For most applications 3 to 7 fps is fine. If your goal is to identify theft or vandals then 3 fps is almost always enough. The only time one should consider more then 15 fps is if you have to watch for sleight-of-hand like watching a register. The reason to avoid higher frame rates is that they take up more drive space, reducing the total storage time of the system. It can also divert budget away from selecting the right cameras which is far more important and more likely to generate usable evidence then a higher frame rate.

Audio Recording:

Don't do it! In many states it is illegal, period. It does not matter if it is your home or other private property. The law only cares about if the people being recorded are aware that they are being recorded. A number of people tend to think Well, I'll put it in anyway, it's not like someone is going to report me. The problem with that line of logic is that if you ever submit video as evidence to a court and you are in violation of your state's laws or federal laws, then you have just given proof to the courts that you also committed a crime. The best possible outcome is that the court throws out the recording and you don't go to jail. But if you can't use your recordings to help convict a person that has wronged you then what good was the money you spent?

CSI:

As a general rule of thumb, anything you've seen done on television or in the Movies with video enhancement is simply not possible in the real world. You can't make data appear where there is none. There is no magic trick to make that work.

For more information on Security Cameras and Video Surveillance, please visit www.liquidcctv.com

Planning Saves Money When Landscaping Your Property

For the home owner, the term landscaping encompasses many different things. But there are two primary keys to successfully landscaping a property ? Planning and Knowledge. In this article we will look at planning stage.

Planning: Unless you are quite wealthy, the best way to landscape a home is to break the complete project into a group of smaller sub-projects. The completion of the smaller project, when completed will provide you with the look and comfort that you truly desire, ever if it takes a number of years to complete. However, breaking the project into a number of sub or smaller projects will only have a successful outcome if you have a vision of the entire landscaping project. Many homeowners waste hundreds if not thousands of dollars, landscaping portions of their properties and not considering the entire project. As an example, if you will desire lighting throughout your landscaping it is wise to install the entire underground conduit system at the same time, as this will avoid having to dig up finished portions of the total project in order to run an additional conduit to an outlying area. This also applies to piping for underground sprinkler systems. Items such as conduit and piping are inexpensive and it is not necessary to buy the valves and wiring, as the case may be, until that portion of the project is undertaken.

If your project is installing concrete patios or driveways, paving a driveway, installing a deck, placing brick pavers or flagstone it is always a good investment to install at least one if not two 2? PVC pipes below the surface and at least a foot on either side of the installation, even if at this point in time you have no plans or concepts for how they might be used. Make a drawing or sketch of where the pipes are located. By installing the pipes you will have given yourself the ability to run pipes or wires under the project without having to dig it up and redo it.

As with any project, big or small, proper preparation is one of the biggest keys to success. Know and understand the materials that you are using. As an example, plants need a variety of soils and fertilizers in order to become hardy and survive the seasons. Materials to construct driveways, patios and walkways are laid down different depending on the foundation that the products are being installed on top off. Read and pay attention to manufacturer instructions, believe it or not they know the best way to install and maintain their products. They understand and have experimented with the best ways to create a foundation and they really want you to be happy with the end result. Use tools that are specified, especially when cutting products. Make sure that all tools, whether powered or hand, are in a safe condition.

For more information about landscaping and other renovation projects visit Renovation Headquarters.

Painting A Ceiling

Having fully covered everything below ceiling level which you do not wish to have painted ... Make sure first of all that you have removed any loose pieces of paper from the ceiling, removed any blue tack, sellotape, chewing gum, dead flies and spiders, cobwebs, etc. etc; filled any holes, and given the ceiling a good wipe down with Sugar Soap. (This will remove grease and any residual chemicals such as cigarette smoke stuff).

Get a good, strong, large container or proper paint scuttle and pour your paint into it. I would suggest that it is not a good idea to use a silk or semi-gloss on a ceiling, because such finishes really do show up all your brush marks and any inconsistencies on the surface. So don't use this finish unless you really are a good painter.

Using a large, fluffy roller on a pole, which should first of all be rinsed with warm water and allowed to more-or-less dry out (it will absorb your paint better this way), first of all load the roller so that it is good and 'full' of paint, then apply it to the ceiling, starting at one corner and working from one end of the room to the other. Employ a steady consistent action to move the roller back and forth.

Use more paint than you think is necessary and don't let the roller dry out. If it starts to become hard work, you probably aren't using enough paint.

(Use a matt finish emulsion - the best quality you can afford)

Go around the light fittings using a brush. If your roller won't get right into the corners, use a brush here also. You can do this before you roller or after. Really it doesn't matter. Many light fittings will unscrew from the base on the ceiling.

Don't lose track of where you get to if you stop for coffee. White on clean white can be difficult. Then again, if you're painting it, your ceiling probably isn't too clean, so forget that bit.

Stand back when you think you're done to make certain that you have covered it all. If you're using an emulsion matt paint, you can go over bits you've missed, and it won't show up when it's dry.

Repeat the entire procedure if you purchased cheap rubbishy paint. (Save time - buy the good stuff in the first place!)

Clean up the roller by endless washing under a running tap, or if you're rich, throw it away. Cleaning up rollers is a pain in the neck (so is painting ceilings - literally) but it can be done if you're patient. Alternatively, wrap the painty roller in a couple of plastic bags if you need it later on for another area with the same colour paint. Properly wrapped up it should keep fine for a few days.

Have a break and congratulate yourself.

Stephen Kaye is a Professional Painter And Decorator living in Devon, UK. He sells a manual 'How To Set Up And Run Your Own Successful Painting And Decorating Business' for ?29.50. (Available as .pdf download or in hard copy or even on CD) You can contact him on kaye.steve@gmail.com for more info or visit http://www.tradeworldhq.com/decorating

Using Rocks In Landscaping

Rock formations can provide very interesting visual effects as part of a home landscaping project. A rock formation will give you areas for planting that will highlight properly chosen plants. You can create waterfalls, retaining walls, and use rocks to provide a path through the garden.

Before placing the rocks in their position there are a few things to consider and do.

Considerations:

If you have an underground sprinkler system, are the heads clear of the proposed rock positions and will the rocks block the water exiting the sprinkler head from reaching any required areas.

Have you buried any pipes for a water service? If you are planning on burying any piping, do it before you place the rocks. Rocks are not something that you want to have to move once they are placed. Now is the time to consider a drip irrigation system if you are planning on a planting in the proposed rock garden areas. Drip irrigation works extremely well in rock gardens.

Do you have buried electrical conduit? Consider spot and flood lighting that will highlight the rock placement within the landscaping and where you will obtain the power feed for that lighting.

Working safely is critical when dealing with objects that are heavy and awkward to handle. Safety boots with steel toes are imperative as are a pair of properly fitting gloves.

To Do:

Wash the rocks before placing them in position. Most rocks will have porous areas and these areas may have collected insects or other bacteria that may be harmful to the plants in the garden. Use a brush and some bleach and then hose them off.

At least 20% of the rock should be buried below ground level. This not only ensures that the rock will not move, but gives an improved visual image. Rocks should not appear to have been placed in position, they should appear as if they have been there forever.

For additional information on landscaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters

HomeImprovement How to Get It Right?

Few people who have gone through a major home improvement project will tell you that the whole thing went smoothly and was finished on time and with no problems. There are just too many people involved and too many things that can go wrong. With a little advance preparation, though, hopefully you can avoid the worst home improvement nightmares.

The first thing to do is to put someone in charge, otherwise you?ll end up doing it yourself ? architects tend to be good at this, as once they?ve designed the improvement, they will have an idea of who is needed to make it happen.

The next thing you need to do is absolutely vital: budget, budget, budget. It?s so easy to spend far more than you wanted to if you don?t work everything out in advance and set a limit that you won?t go over ? a few extras here and there, and before you know it you can?t afford it any more. If possible, negotiate fixed prices with the builders, so that however long the project takes they will get paid the same amount. This will encourage them to finish quickly, and remove the risk of you getting stuck with a large bill. You might need to phone around for a while before you can find someone who will accept the deal on these terms, but as long as you?re offering a reasonable price, they are out there.

Avoid hiring too many specialists, as you don?t need that many people working on a home project. Stick to more general professionals, who can call in people they know to do the parts that must be done by someone trained or registered in that area. Avoid hiring plumbers and electricians directly, for example, as they will just stretch out the work ? leave it to the builder to bring in his own plumber or electrician instead.

John Gibb is the owner of Home-Design guides For more information on home design check out http://www.Home-Design-guides.Info

A DIY Guide to Fence Building

There is an old adage that tells us that good fences make good neighbors. The addition of a fence to your existing property is a major step, and there are quite a few things that must be decided and tended to before you even begin. However, don't let this discourage you. There are also several good reasons why the building of a fence is an ideal DIY project, and not beyond the abilities of the normal homeowner.

There are a lot of reasons one might have to build the fence, and these considerations control the decision as to what type of fence to build and the materials that will be used in its construction. Privacy is a prime consideration, and usually leads to a desire for a high and forbidding type of material selection. It is important to control this a bit. You do not want to spoil any possible views by making the fence too high.

It is also true that thieves are not very fond of fences and the presence of a fence can protect you from unwanted access to your property, but when a fence is too high it provides a sanctuary for them. Once they are inside the fence, they are shielded from view.

When the major purpose for the fence is to provide a pen for a pet, and privacy is not a major concern, this would suggest a smaller and more open type of fencing. Chain link would get the nod here. It might also be possible that the fence has a limited purpose beyond the closing in of the entire property. A fence around a garden is an example of this. When this is the case, a good choice might be vinyl fencing. This is a newer and very versatile fencing material.

Once the decision is made as to the type of fence, and the material is selected, it is a good idea to take a good look at the code requirements for the area where you reside. Codes vary widely from locale to locale, and you need to make sure you have this area covered before you begin. It is also a good idea to have a survey of the property done prior to getting started. Nothing ruins a day more than finding out your new vinyl fence is two feet onto your neighbor's property.

When the preliminary matters are all tended to, it is time to begin the actual construction process. It is pretty much accepted that you are going to have to dig some holes. In fact, the digging of the holes, and the placing of poles constitutes the major labor output of this project. A good post hole digger, an item that can be easily rented, is a necessity here. The placement and distance between poles is going to depend on the type of fence and the building material selected. When the fence is going to be wood, and you are planning on doing the carpentry yourself, you have a little more leeway in the hole placements. The use of chain link, or the very popular and versatile vinyl fencing material, or the use of precut and prepared lumber dictates the placement, and you should be sure to follow the recommendations of the supplier.

Once the holes are dug, and the poles firmly planted, it is a simple matter of attaching the rails, nailing together the posts, or installing the chain link. Then you can sit back and enjoy your privacy, and perhaps your security, and certainly your new and improved relations with your neighbors.

Natalie Aranda writes on home and garden. When the major purpose for the fence is to provide a pen for a pet, and privacy is not a major concern, this would suggest a smaller and more open type of fencing. Chain link would get the nod here. It might also be possible that the fence has a limited purpose beyond the closing in of the entire property. A fence around a garden is an example of this. When this is the case, a good choice might be vinyl fencing. This is a newer and very versatile fencing material. It is also a good idea to have a survey of the property done prior to getting started. Nothing ruins a day more than finding out your new vinyl fences are two feet onto your neighbor's property.

Crafting ? Can You Say "Free" ? Using Recycled Items

Have you ever found yourself wondering how people come up with their innovative objects or furniture pieces that they have painted, stained, refurbished in some way? You know, that wonderful folding screen you saw at someone?s house that added just the right touch to the room, or that cute little desk that was turned into a vanity that housed all the make-up and jewelry just right.

With a little bit of elbow grease, ingenuity, and just plain luck, just about anybody can acquire a unique piece to call their very own!

Where to start? The main thing is to keep your ?eyes wide open? when you are driving around your neighborhood, particularly on trash day (hint: that?s the Outdoor Market. Sounds much better than saying trash picking, doesn?t it?)! Just yesterday, on my way to the little corner store, someone had put out the cutest little desk (no broken drawers, knobs intact, no loose joints, all oak wood including base).

It actually didn?t even need to be refinished, but I would have still added my own little touch to it, such as leaving the drawers and the top in it?s natural state and painting the base a color of my choosing.

It never ceases to amaze me the things that you can find at no cost! They could have taken this item to a local charity and received a receipt to use on their income tax as a donation. Fortunately, most people won?t bother with hauling it anywhere. So, to the curb it goes!

There have been many times when I have needed just a piece of lumber, not 8?. Or a piece of wood/plywood, again not an 8? piece, to use on a project. Do I go to the lumber store? Nope. You can find these items everyday in the Outdoor Market.

I wanted to make a bench with a padded seat to put at the entrance area of my home. Some place to set my purse or mail down when I walk in the door, and also serve the purpose of having a place to sit to put my shoes on when leaving. I ?found? a small outdoor bench someone had discarded (again, no loose joints, screws or nails). I then found some cushions from a couch, in order to make it a padded bench.

I painted the bench, cut the cushions down to size with an electric knife, bought material and trim on clearance at my local fabric store, and for about $10 I had a nice, solid, padded bench!

Total time spent on the project was about two hours. Well worth it in comparison to what it would have cost me if I had gone out and bought a brand new piece of furniture to fit my needs. And, a bigger bonus to me, no one else was going to have one like it!

Do you know the price of folding screens in the stores? Why not make your own? How many times have you seen by-fold doors tossed out? They are wonderful for making folding screens...either for hiding something behind, or just a decorative piece to place in a corner of a room to add interest.

You can paint and stencil them in a number of ways, or add fabric, molding, pictures, etc. The possibilities are endless! You end up having a one-of-a-kind piece at very little expense and could become an heirloom that your family members pass down for years to come.

How many times have you seen old dressers being tossed out? You drive by it and think....?That thing is really falling apart.? Are you sure? Was it just one drawer, or all the drawers? If you don?t need the dresser...that?s fine, then just use the good drawers that are left. They are great for under the bed storage! Just ad some small coasters so that they move easily and a piece of fabric attached with Velcro on the top of the drawer will keep things dust free.

How about using them for storage in your garage? Easily done and if you don?t want the ?open? look, it?s not that difficult to build a wood box around them to hide the items inside.

One last great use for a drawer if you happen to have someone in the family that is mechanically inclined: again, attaching small coasters to the bottom, it becomes a rolling tool holder for when they?re under the car and keeps the tools easily accessible and all in one place!

It?s time to take your blinders off, and just think of the things that can be created from objects that are easily available to you for no money, just by being observant. We have become a very ?throw-away? society. Not only are you not going to burn a hole in your pocket, you?re going to save the environment by not having these items end up in our landfills when they still have perfectly good use left in them.

Author Bio:
JayJay Martin is an avid pursuer of saving our environment and remaking or finding a ?new? use for items that are discarded. You can find other cost saving information at her website: http://www.wrinkledraisinreruns.com/ or her blog: http://wrinkledraisinreruns.blogspot.com

Six Perfect Home Painting Tips Materials and Preparation

Surface preparation is vital, and can make or break a paint job. Ensure you fill any holes and take off any old flaky paint, and then sand back to form a smooth finish. The she'll be right, the paint will fill in the holes theory is totally incorrect! Always check the surface before starting to paint with a light to see if there are any blemishes.

Make sure the surface you are going to paint is clean!! This is essential, especially in kitchen areas where the walls can have oily residue from cooking. Use sugar soap for cleaning.

Get rid of any problems before you paint, mould - use household bleach diluted 1:5 with water to remove the visible mould and find out why it is happening, and fix it. Stains from nicotine - these are nasty as they bleed through the paint. Seal the area with a proprietary stain block, or use a couple of coats of solvent based paint.

Select good quality paint products, if you are unsure of what you are buying, make sure you ask and get the experts to specify the correct preparation required, product, and sequence of application.

Always use quality branded equipment (brushes & rollers etc), as they usually have a guarantee or come back if they brake or don't perform as expected. Always look after your quality equipment so you can use it again. For cleaning acrylic paint from brushes use water to remove most of the paint residue, and then use a brush cleaning product and rinse again, then use dish washing liquid and a final rinse in water. For Enamel, use mineral turpentine to initially clean the brush, and then the brush cleaner, then the turpentine again. Use a bucket for these processes, you use less product and can use the side to press the brushes against to remove any paint residue.

Remove all fittings that you can, ie door handles, light fixtures, and use painter's masking tape around any that cannot be removed ie door hinges, light switches, glass in windows. A sloppy paint job is obvious when you see paint all over the light switch!

Lee Brown is an experienced professional designer and co founder of interiordezine.com, a website dedicated to providing free interior design and decorating information. Go and look at interiordezine.com to see if you can answer some of your home decorating questions now! You can also get a free decorating ebook at free ebook Try this site on color

Learning To Use And Make Scrollsaw Patterns

Scrollsaw patterns allow you to make designs in wood, from simple to intricate. If you are planning on making many woodworking patterns, you will eventually need these. You can purchase patterns or find them for free on the internet. Start off with simple designs and move on to more difficult ones as you gain experience in sawing.

Tips for Scrollsaw Patterns

Always cut only completely dry wood. Allow wood to dry thoroughly before cutting.

Be very careful when measuring for either enlarging patterns or making them smaller. Being off even a little bit can make a huge difference in the finished product.

When working with thin wood, place a scrap piece of plywood under the wood to help prevent splitting.

Cut accurately, continue checking throughout the cutting process to be sure your cuts are accurate.

Drill holes from each side to avoid splintering the wood and create even holes.

Always use new sandpaper for finishing for best results

If you are new to using scroll saw patterns, start off with a simple pattern. Take your time and don?t try to rush the process. Rushing can result in mistakes that aren?t easy to correct. o As you are shaping the wood, keep the pieces next to each other to be sure the process is working well. o Take breaks if you get tired. If you keep going, you won?t get the best results. Remember to take your time.

Scrollsaw Patterns on Wood

Free scrollsaw patterns can be found on the internet. Some patterns on the internet are for sale and others are free. You can also purchase them in pattern books. Some are available in books centered around a theme, such as holidays or children?s designs.

Print out the patterns you love as you find them. Even if you aren?t planning to use them right away. Free sites change often and the pattern may not be there when you need it. Use a binder to store the patterns until you are ready to use them. You can photocopy your favourite patterns out of your books and add these to your binder as well. This will help you build an extensive, organized collection of patterns for future use.

You can use either carbon paper or graphite to put the pattern on the wood. Another option is to photocopy the patterns and trace heavily with a pencil on the front and back. Then, you can transfer your pattern to the wood. This is an easy alternative to messy carbons.

Carpet tapes or spray adhesives can be used to attach patterns to the wood. Carpet tape doesn?t leave a residue and is a good choice. You can also use a hot iron transfer. If you get an adhesive residue that won?t come off, use mineral spirits to remove the adhesive.

Learning to Use and Make Scrollsaw Patterns

You can often find demonstrations or sawing workshops in home improvement centers or through professional woodworkers in your area. A workshop is an excellent idea for a beginner. Start out with less detailed patterns and move on to more difficult designs as you learn. Books and videos offering instruction are also available, if you can?t find a workshop or don?t have time to attend one when it is offered.

Beginners should always use a hold down when starting out with wood working patterns. These are designed to help you keep the design straight as you are sawing. A foot control on your saw helps you by keeping both hands free to work with the wood. Remember to start off slow and increase both speed and difficulty over time.

Jack Blacksmith writes for http://www.insidewoodworking.com a website with resources. In his publication the author is featuring scroll saw patterns and various articles in the field.

Master Gazebo Creme Da La Creme

Today, the number of gazebo manufacturers is growing. With the increasing demand, manufacturers are coming up with new materials and styles to beat out the competition. However, one company definitely unrivaled is the one that makes the Master Gazebo. Whether having a gazebo added to your backyard in the middle of a big city or in the secluded Rocky Mountains, this specific gazebo is unlike any other, creating a sense of isolation while being completely pampered.

The Master Gazebo is made from polymer, which provides the ultimate in protection, comfort, and efficiency. Best of all, the Master Gazebo is synonymous with quality while being backed with an exceptional warranty. Without doubt, your new gazebo will create elegance, impressing even the most undaunted. One of the challenges of permanent gazebos is that most are built to look and feel the same. With a Master Gazebo, you are stepping into another zone.

Yes, you will pay a little more for a Master Gazebo but you can be sure the money invested is well spent. Considering this model gazebo will be a part of your home, something you, your family, and friends will enjoy for many, many years, it is worth buying the best. The added benefits of a Master Gazebo are unparallel. In addition to providing you with a private retreat, you will also be the proud owner of the ideal entertainment center.

To give you a few samples of what makes the Master Gazebo so incredible let us start with the bronze windows made from Lucite acrylic. This option is perfect for both privacy and protection, while still allowing you to enjoy the fresh air. In addition, the Master Gazebo offers the look of real wood while eliminating normal damages such as wood rot, warping, and termites. Then, the roof design is unique. For this, you have a nice looking design that allows you to enjoy a dry, safe environment even if the outdoor elements are harsh. Another feature of the Master Gazebo includes the sliding doors built on a durable aluminum frame, making entry and exit convenient.

Obviously, before you choose just any gazebo, consider what you want your money to buy. You also need to determine the right size Master Gazebo for your property and needs. The good news is that this manufacturer offers several excellent choices. First, there is a nice 10x12-foot gazebo, which offers 98x125 inches of interior space. Another possibility is the larger size of 12 x 12-foot. For this, you would have a full 125 x 125 inches of inside space. Perhaps the largest size, 12 x 14-feet is more to your liking. If you love to entertain or have a large family, the interior size of 125 x 154 inches is more than enough room.

The important thing to remember when choosing your Master Gazebo is that you probably want enough room left so you can still enjoy your yard. Therefore, try to plan accordingly, giving you the best of both world. Once the gazebo is assembled, you will be ready for some very relaxing days and nights. The one thing you will never regret is investing in a quality gazebo such as Master.

Dion Semeniuk has developed experience into transforming your backyard into your very own resort. To learn how the gazebo can achieve this, visit the Gazebo website.

How Woodworking Jigs Can Improve Safety and Precision of Your DIY Project

Woodworking jigs are a necessary part of any woodworking shop. They are great for repetitive tasks in many wood working projects. They make complex projects easier to manage and faster. You can purchase pre made jigs or make your own. Although they are inexpensive, making your own from scrap wood is even cheaper. Depending on the type of projects you like to do, you will need a variety of different jigs.

Types of Jigs

Dovetail jigs are great for making dovetail joints accurately. These can be purchased relatively inexpensively. Another option is to make your own dovetail jig. You can find templates for making your own jigs on the internet or in most stores that sell wood working supplies. Many of these templates allow you to make up to twelve different size jigs.

You may want to puck up a dovetail bit for your router and a dovetail saw. These are great tools if you intend to make your own jigs. Templates allow you to make variable spaced or fixed dovetails for a variety of projects, including cabinets, drawers and small boxes. Some systems come with bits and templates together in one kit. These save money compared to purchasing the components separately.

Dovetail saws are used to cut not only dovetails, but other fine joints for projects. The blades on these saws are thinker than other saws. This allows for greater accuracy. It?s important to purchase a good quality tool for making tight joints and professional looking projects. Look for about fourteen to seventeen points per inch in a good quality saw.

A dowel jig is used for making quality, consistent dowels. If you are using a thick timber, get a self centering jig for better accuracy. There are a variety of sizes from a quarter to one half inch. Complete kits are available that include the dowel jig with several hundred dowels in a variety of sizes. Glue is sometimes included in these kits.

A kreg jig is great for cabinet making. Perfectly positioned slides are necessary if the movement in the drawer is to be smooth. Using kreg jigs save time because you won?t need to measure and mark the spaces for drawer slides. These make it easier to mount metal drawer slides. They can be used for center, bottom or extension mounted drawers. This is an inexpensive, yet versatile piece of equipment.

Making a good jig yourself

Making your own woodworking jigs saves money in supplies. Use inexpensive materials and scrap pieces of plywood for making your own jig. Since you use the jigs for one project only, you don?t want to spend much on materials. If you plan to re use your jigs, use a stronger hardwood to make them.

You can find instructions for making your own jigs in woodworking books or magazines. Instructions are also available on the internet. You can print these out for future reference. Consider getting a good binder to keep your jig making instructions organized in your workshop. Using plastic page covers will protect the instructions from getting dirty, ripped or damaged.

Ken Morris contributes to http://www.insidewoodworking.com a website with resources. Ken is focusing on tips about jigs and tools for woodworking and safety issues.

Knowledge Is The Key To Making An Informed Decision Buying A New Toilet

Molded from porcelain, toilets are the basic essential for a bathroom. With the ever dwindling supply of water, manufacturers have been pushed to create toilets that require as little water as possible in order to properly dispose of waste material.

Toilets are not all the same and their ability to flush with lower quantities of water has required extensive engineering. Toilets are basically made up of two pieces, the bowl and the tank. Water is held in the tank and then released into the bowl. Even one piece units operate in this manner, the only difference being, the tank and bowl have been manufactured using a common one piece mold.

Toilets also come in a range of seat heights and there are two basic bowl configurations, standard and elongated.

Besides the aesthetics of the toilet, if you are concerned about flushing capability you must consider: the diameter of the valve hole from the bowl to the tank - the larger the hole the more water that is released instantly into the bowl, providing a superior flushing action. the number of holes in the rim that release the water, the more holes the better the swirling action, the better the swirling action the better the bowl cleaning.

Toilets do not need to have traps installed within the drain plumbing system, because toilets have the trap molded into the bowl.

Many manufacturers have designed matching sinks or basins, including pedestal mount units and matching bathtubs.

As with most items, colors between manufacturers vary and it is important, especially if sinks or basins, toilets and tubs are in close proximity that the colors match. A white made by one manufacturer can look grey against the white of another manufacturer. If you are purchasing units from different manufacturers take a toilet tank top and place it on the sink or bathtub and look at the color variations, before you buy.

Toilet tanks will come with their own flush handles, however many bathroom design accessories companies have made handles that match towel bars, soap dishes and other items. Flush handles are generally easily replaceable with most toilet models.

Toilet seats now come in a variety of colors and materials, many toilets do not come with their own seats. Again, color matching is important and not all seats work properly with all toilets.

For additional information on bathroom fixtures for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Plumbing Noises: Noisy Water Pipes

Q: Since we have been on higher water pressure from a new source, we are getting more noise in the pipes. Not banging or clunking, just more water moving through the system faster, kind of a rushing noise. The pipe into the house is plastic, then hooks into copper pipe. The noise reverberates down the whole line, and since the pipe is strapped to the floor joists, it makes the noise under the kitchen, bathroom and one bedroom. I know about having a foot or so of capped pipe going up from a line to trap air and cushion the noise of on and off clunking, but this has me stumped. I am at the point now where I am about ready to rip the strapping off and putting foam around the pipes before I strap them back up. Before I spend the money on this, I thought I would check with you to see if that is what I need to do, or can you suggest something else ? Thanks very much.

A: A reduction of 1.5:1 (typically 3/4 to 1/2 is commonly used to increase or maintain water pressure throughout a house. The theory is that, given constant supply pressure, restricting volume will increase velocity. Released pressure at a fixture will be compensated for by this increased velocity.

I expect your hot and cold supply pipes are 1/2 inch diameter. What diameter is the plastic feed? If the reduction is greater than 1.5:1 it's quite likely that the velocity is great enough to cause noise in the pipe.

Check that all the shut-off valves (below the sinks etc.) are completely open. They too, can cause turbulence/noise by restricting water flow. Also, check all the pipes to see if there are any crushed or dented sections.

Foam wrap is a great for insulating purposes, but perhaps a little too soft for noise damping (it would crush flat). By all means, wrap the pipes, but use denser rubber for vibration pads. Extra bracing (for clamping to) might also help.

Alternative: Before you start pulling out nails, check the water velocity at your fixtures, and if it is extremely high, a pressure reducing valve can be installed on the supply line.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Do it Yourself Home Improvements Always a Good Idea?

Once a homeowner decides to proceed with a particular home improvement project, they then have the tough decision - to do it themselves or call in a professional.

There's no hard and fast rule here. Each potential do-it-yourselfer will have to ask themselves some questions, and be totally honest with the answers in order to be happy with the end result. They will also have to do the requisite research to make sure their answers are grounded in reality. Don't say that you can build kitchen cabinets just because you've made some bookcases. It may well be true that you can, but research the steps and tools needed to build those cabinets, and compare that with your prior experience, plus your desire to learn new skills and obtain any necessary tools, before deciding.

If you're either considering doing a home improvement job yourself or thinking about using a professional contractor, here are a few questions to ask yourself that'll help you make an educated decision.

Am I Capable of Completing the Job?

This is the most important and also the trickiest question and you will need to truthfully consider whether or not you can do the work yourself.

If you have not had prior experience doing jobs like this, or if you haven't had the opportunity to assist others in the completion of a similar project, or if you just lack confidence in your ability to do this work yourself, then it may well be worthwhile calling in a pro.

Conversely, if you have no prior experience in this particular home improvement, but you've researched the job thoroughly and are still fired up and optimistic about taking it on, then go for it - especially if you can round up a helper with some experience. Be sure to always consider all safety issues when researching the project. Having a kitchen cabinet door that won't close is not good, but it's not as bad as finishing up the job minus a finger - or worse.

Can I Afford it?

It's easy to underestimate the costs involved in a home improvement project. If your project is small, like broken faucets or painting a bedroom, you can likely save a lot.

If the project is one that involves major disruption of your living space, such as totally remodeling a kitchen, then you have to consider the impact on your home life and career as you work on this project on nights and weekends. Also try to forsee extraneous costs such as, in our example of a kitchen remodel, eating out or ordering in almost every night when you compare the diy home improvement job with the professional one.

It will take you a lot longer than it would take a professional, even if you are as skillful as he is (obviously not very likely) because he can work on it full time. This may end up costing you more financially, because as the project drags on, you may be tempted to buy your supplies at the most convenient place, rather than the least expensive, or to call in pros to finish up small jobs that you just can't find the time for. However, if you're really motivated to take on the project, if you have the time to focus on the job at hand, and if you are prepared for the stress of living without a kitchen for a month or two, then take a shot at it. Once again, make sure you've identified all safety issues involved in the project.

Do I Need a Building Permit?

Check with the local building department. In many locations, any job that involves wiring or plumbing automatically requires a permit and that the work be done only by a professional contractor.

In the end, what is frequently the best solution is to do the labor-intensive jobs (like demolition) yourself, and let a pro handle the tasks that require experience and skill. This will usually give you a professional-quality job at quite a bit less than the typical professional-quality price.

Joe Serpico is webmaster and publisher of Home Repair Guide. For more home repair and remodeling tips, please visit www.homerepairguide.net

Drywall: How To Quickly Fix The Holes From Last Night's Party!

Drywall, otherwise known as gypsum wallboard, has replaced plaster as the most common wall surface in American homes. It is used as a backing for wall treatments such as wallpaper, fabric, tile and wood paneling. Or it can simply be painted. Drywall has the virtue of being easy and inexpensive to install.

Repair

?To fix nails that have popped from drywall, make sure the panel is secured to the studs above and below the nail. Hammer the nail in and dimple the nail; drive in and dimple a nail of the same size right next to it to hold it in. Use joint compound to cover the nails. When that has dried, sand the area, prime, and paint.

?To fix small holes in your dry wall, clean the holes and dampen them with a sponge. Fill the holes with spackling compound using a narrow putty knife. You can also use patching plaster to fill the holes. Let the spackling compound dry, prime, and paint to match the rest of the wall.

?Some large holes in wallboard can be patched with precut, adhesive wallboard patches. You may need to widen the hole so the patch can fit. After you have popped it in, cover the seams and the patch with joint compound, according to label directions, then prime with a wallboard primer and paint the surface.

Joe Kahler is recognized as an expert on helping young adults successfully transition from home to being ?out on their own?. His latest work has recently been assembled in his book, Out On My Own... Now What? Tips and Insights So You Won?t Be Left Hanging in the ?Real World?!

Joe received his undergraduate degree from Whittier College in Social Sciences and his Masters in Education from Arizona State University. His experience includes teaching, coaching, running numerous businesses, investing, selling insurance and real estate AND attending numerous personal, ?hard knocks? training classes!

http://www.outonmyown.com

Nannies Grannies and the Ontario Fire Code: What Realtors Need to Know About Retrofit Section 9.8

In addition to granny, a granny flat can contain some dire pitfalls for a new owner and anyone involved in the sale of such a unit. It?s one more thing for real estate professionals to be concerned about, because the consequences of having an apartment declared illegal or closed down can be disastrous to the purchaser, who may seek compensation from Realtors, home inspectors or anyone who didn?t issue all the appropriate warnings.

Any separate unit with its own cooking, eating, sleeping, and sanitary facilities in a detached or semi-detached house or a rowhouse is classified as an accessory dwelling unit. It doesn?t matter whether it?s a basement apartment for rent or a unit to accommodate a family member or a nanny.

In Ontario it?s been a roller-coaster ride for home owners in recent years. In 1994 the New Democratic government changed the law so that municipalities could no longer ban basement apartments. In May of 2001 the Conservative government reversed the rules and it?s expected that many cities will once again use zoning controls to block new accessory dwellings in the years ahead.

Strict fire regulations are now in effect, and any existing apartments that were occupied in November of 1995 are permitted ? as long as they meet the new fire code. There?s also a new registry system, so officials can monitor compliance - and new penalties that are stiff enough to take seriously (fines of $25,000 or a year in the slammer!)

Before closing deals involving basement apartments or duplex, triplex or any other multiple dwellings, agents should ensure that their purchasers have obtained written confirmation of whether or not apartments are registered, and have been inspected and found to conform to the fire code.

Realtors can be faced with angry, disappointed purchasers because under the new rules an illegal or non-conforming apartment is easy to detect and easy to shut down ? and may be costly for the new owner to renovate, to keep it operating.

To get a granny flat certified in Ontario requires inspections by the local Fire Department and by the Electrical Safety Authority and possibly another by a local Ontario Building Code Official. In most cases, at least some renovations or repairs are required. Even if no renovations are needed to meet the fire code, fees alone can be a few hundred dollars.

Some areas of the Ontario Fire Code Retrofit Section 9.8 can be difficult to address, especially if the apartment was added as an afterthought in a typical home. For example, ceiling tiles and wood paneling in a basement apartment may be combustible and not meet with current requirements. These items may have to be removed or covered and owners are sometimes ordered to install a sprinkler system.

A professional home inspection cannot certify a self-contained apartment, but a knowledgeable inspector can identify the magnitude of renovations necessary to meet the new regulations. He can also be used to alert the prospective purchaser that the unit entails additional responsibility and additional liability.

As for what steps a Realtor should take if the home includes a granny flat, notifying the prospective purchaser that it may be subject to regulation is definitely at the top of the list. In Ontario that would seem absolutely necessary to avoid a charge of non-disclosure. In other jurisdictions it might just be prudent to do so, but better to err on the side of providing more information than less.

Fines and other legal consequences of not meeting the law are just the most obvious problems facing an owner of a unit that is not certified. Having to toss the tenant out is also obvious. But consider that insurance coverage or insurance claims may be denied, mortgages may be denied or nullified, and a tenant that is injured may have grounds for a civil suit.

Not all jurisdictions are as tough as Ontario... yet. But a Realtor can meet his or her professional obligations and avoid getting tangled up in a lawsuit just by issuing a caution. And it?s worth doing so, whether your client is the vendor or the purchaser.

A self-contained apartment can add real value to a home, especially if the purchaser wants to have a family member near, but not too near, or if the purchaser requires rental income to offset mortgage payments. Indeed, it?s the very reason some people buy such a property.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Buying A House With A Basement Apartment?

This article is intended for discussion purposes only and not as a code interpretation. For specific articles and conformance, please consult the Ontario Fire Code, Retrofit Section 9.8 of the Ontario Building Code.

This article deals with some of the things you should be watching for, if you?re shopping for a home with a self-contained apartment. The regulatory information was current as of 1996, however may be subject to change at any time. Consult with your local Building Code Official or Fire Department for up-to-date regulations.

What's the big deal?

Most existing two-unit houses (built before Nov. 16, 1995) will be grandfathered (continue to be allowed) under the new legislation, provided they meet applicable municipal planning standards. As well, two unit houses should have met Fire Code requirements by July 14, 1996. In general, new apartments must comply with the Building Code, and existing apartments must comply with the Fire Code.

Both new and existing apartments must comply with certain property and municipal zoning (planning) standards.

Is there a certificate of compliance?It would appear your best protection is to ensure the vendor supplies a certificate of compliance from the local municipal fire department for any property that might fall under the jurisdiction of the Fire Code, Section 9.8. If the vendor is unwilling or unable to supply a certificate of compliance, the dwelling unit could possibly be non-conforming, and therefore considered illegal.

Also, municipalities have the right to decide where they will allow homes to have additional dwelling units and can designate areas where they will not allow homes to have additional dwelling units. Units installed after November 16, 1995 without a permit are unprotected (even if they meet fire, safety & electrical standards) and the municipality could require removal of the unit.

What to look for:

* Walls/floors/ceilings covered with materials with a 30 minute fire rating (eg. drywall); or materials with a 15 minute fire rating and interconnected smoke alarms, throughout all dwellings in the house.

* New! Ontario, 1998: All homeowners must maintain smoke detectors on every elevation, even if the dwelling is not rented or sub-let. Check with your local, provincial or state authority to confirm requirements for smoke detectors in your area.

* Materials not rated for fire protection, but with a sprinkler system installed throughout all dwellings in the house.

* A private entrance, and the route does not involve entering another dwelling. A second means of exit, which can be another door or a window easily accessible and unobstructed.

What to ask:

* When was the apartment built?

* If the apartment was built after Nov.16, 1995, does the vendor have a permit?

* Does the vendor have a certificate of compliance from Ontario Hydro? From the local fire department?

* Are there interconnected fire alarms?

* What size is the electrical service? Is there enough ampacity (capacity) to support two separate living units?

Beware:

* There are some private inspection firms who are attempting to capitalize on this opportunity by advertising themselves as basement apartment or fire code specialists. Don?t be fooled. Municipal Building & Fire Departments are the only organizations that have the authority to determine what constitutes code compliance.

What?s this going to cost?

* Ontario Hydro Inspection $72.00

* Fire Dept. Code Inspection $142.00 (typical/average)

* The estimated cost to upgrade or correct an existing basement apartment can be as high as $15,000.00

The regulatory information in this article was current as of 1996, however may be subject to change at any time. Consult with your local Building Code Official or Fire Department for up-to-date regulations.

Ontario Fire Marshall's Office: www.ofm.gov.on.ca

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Wood Floors All About Wood Floors

Wood floor installation

Wood is a superior floor covering in all but wet locations. Wood flooring is available in strips, planks and tiles, either solid or laminated. Made of hardwood, generally maple, cherry or oak; the strips and tiles have tongue-and-groove joints for secure laying. Most types are available finished or unfinished, and rough planking can be up to one foot wide, although rarely used because wide boards are more susceptible to curling and cupping.

Laminated wood flooring

Laminated wood floorings are normally comprised of a hardwood veneer over a solid pine core, or several layers of hardwood glued together under pressure, much like plywood. They are available in a variety of sizes and designs, and sometimes parquet tiles will be attached to a fabric backing, to facilitate faster, easier alignment. Laminated wood flooring is usually glued in place, and can be laid over any clean, dry sub-floor. Special methods and precautions must be observed when installing hardwood flooring on concrete, especially in basements where potential humidity levels may be sufficient to cause the wood to swell and buckle upwards.

If your sub-floor is rough or uneven, an underlay of 1/4 plywood properly installed, will aid in the installation, appearance and longevity of your hardwood floor. It will also help reduce squeaks and the potential for cracking. If the new floor is higher than any adjacent floors, the edges (especially in doorways) should be finished with rounded or tapered hardwood mouldings.

The underlay can be covered with 15 lb. felt (sometimes known as tar paper, roofing felt, or building paper) which will further reduce squeaking and add to the life of the floor. Handling and storage is extremely important, and wood flooring materials should be allowed to rest for a minimum of one week in the area in which they are to be installed. This will allow the moisture content of the wood to reach some equilibrium with it's surroundings; otherwise the floor boards may shrink or swell, sometimes quite drastically. The flooring should parallel the room's long dimension, scattering the end-to-end joints, and leaving a perimeter gap equal to the thickness of the boards. Experienced flooring people will know just how tight to lay the boards, depending on the moisture content of the wood, and the relative humidity level in the room(s) on the day of installation.

Nailing hardwood

The choice of nails, or other fasteners, is also critical to the successful installation of your floor. With unfinished flooring, the fasteners must be properly set, to facilitate sanding prior to finishing.

FLOATING FLOORS are made of laminated floor panels, laid over 1/8 high-density foam Floating wood floor system, over concrete slab.underlay, and glued at the joints. For basement floors, 6-mil polyethylene vapour barrier can be laid under the foam. Consult with your materials supplier and/or other experienced people before attempting to install a hardwood floor in a basement.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Selecting, installing and finishing a hardwood floor can be a rewarding experience, but do your homework first! If you have minimal experience working with wood, or you're unsure about the particular installation, you should consider hiring a professional. The cost of the materials is quite high as compared to other floor coverings, and a professional installation will guard against damage, and guarantee satisfaction with your new hardwood floor.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Use Creativity To Improve Your Home

It is important that you have a creative impulse when you are thinking about making home improvements. Even if you do not think of yourself as a creative person, you can consult design resources and look at other homes to develop your creative side.

To improve your home you must first have a good understanding of the kinds of things you like. You should imagine your home with the types of improvements you are considering, taking in account your particular tastes and personality. For example, if you favor an exotic look, you could use jungle wallpaper and mirrored tiles. If you feel good when you imagine the potential changes as a reality in your home, by all means, go ahead and make it happen!

Many home improvements are surprisingly affordable. You can change the look of a bathroom for just a few hundred dollars. And while you may think that you can?t do such complicated work yourself, you are wrong. If you can read instructions and follow them, you can do most home improvement jobs yourself. Remember, the cost of a remodel pales next to the value that it will add to your home ? not to mention your attitude! Since you will be improving the quality of the home, you will be able to reap considerably more value if you want to sell it or take out a loan than it will cost to make most improvements.

Putting in new tile is much less expensive than you probably think. Mirror tiles, cork tiles, and ceramic tiles are relatively inexpensive. This is especially true for bathrooms where only a low number of tiles are usually required. Mirrored tiles may could about $100, but even if you wanted to put mirrors on every wall of the bathroom, you would still probably spend only a little more if you comparison-shop for your materials at different stores. You?ll need to get certain tools and materials in addition to the tiles if you want to use them on wall or floors. These materials are not expensive either. You will need primer, sealer, and plaster if your walls have holes or cracks in them. Kits containing all these materials are available for about $20. Tools might cost a little more if you select the most expensive ones, but since you will then own these tools, it can be considered an investment. The tiles themselves will be the most expensive materials required to remodel a bathroom unless you decide to replace the fixtures as well.

The cost of a bath or kitchen remodel may seem high in the beginning, but you must consider that any improvements you make will add to the value of your home and also make you feel better about yourself. And your home will reflect more of your real tastes and personality.

Discover a collection of articles and resources offering tips and advice about the home, garden and home improvement by visiting http://home-articles.com

Unwelcome Guests: Fire Ant Part II Insects & Insecticides

The safest and easiest way to keep unwanted insects out of your home is to maintain your window and door screens, your window and door seals, and to fill other openings with caulking. Insects are attracted by food and water. Clean floors and cabinets thoroughly, and also around pipes, plumbing fixtures and garbage cans. Store your food in tightly-closed containers, and launder clothing before putting it away for extended periods.

Aerosol Insecticide

If you do find some bugs in the house, you can kill them with a surface or space spray, or a powdered insecticide. Some insecticides offer residual effects, and are useful in breeding and feeding areas.

Read insecticide instructions carefully, and avoid contact with food or kitchen utensils and appliances. Do not smoke while applying insecticides and wash your hands and face throroughly afterwards. Avoid open flames, and do not touch treated surfaces until they are dry. Keep insect sprays away from children, pets and elderly, ill or pregnant persons. If anyone gets insecticide in their eyes, nose or mouth, call a poison control centre or 9-1-1 right away.

Check the label for an antidote before using any insecticide product.

Orkin Woman

For extensive or serious infestations, consider hiring a licensed, professional pest control company or individual. Names and numbers can be found in the Yellow Pages under the Pest Control Services category.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

DoItYourself Home Improvement Tips

Often times, improvements to your home are quite small scale and you can, without much difficulty, complete these enhancements by yourself. While there is always the possibility of hiring a contractor, electrician or plumber to tackle these problems when they arise, why would one do so when they can easily fix the problems themselves? With the aid of the Iternet or home improvement magazines, an individual can quickly find simple, speedy solutions to whatever dilemma may crop up.

Some tasks may require you to find a friend willing to lend a helping hand as they are simply too exhaustive for one person. An abundance of these home improvements can be performed with ease solely by you. Among the many categories of repairs or renovations that you may have to or choose to perform are flooring projects, electrical work, plumbing, masonry, gardening and landscaping, refinishing furniture and fixing and installing windows. Using the Internet, magazines or advice from a friend or hardware store employee can allow you to obtain the information you may require in order to carry out one of the related projects by yourself. Many magazines and websites actually have complete, step-by-step walkthrough procedures and how-to guides.

While there is a wealth of job specific things one has to consider before engaging in any do-it-yourself undertaking, there are also numerous things that one must remember before attacking any home improvement project. First off, safety should be your number one priority, thus you should make sure that any potential hazards are eliminated. It is crucial that you make sure you have all the necessary tools and supplies required for the task. You would not want to find yourself part of the way through a project and unable to continue because you simply overlooked some of the job's requirements. You must also ensure that you are comfortable with proceeding about the task by yourself and that you know and understand how to do everything that is required for the undertaking.

If you need House and Home information or have articles on House and Home issues, visit our House and Home section for more in-depth resources. Free website content.

Septic Systems: The Inside Story Two Main Causes of System Failures

How well do you understand septic systems? To see if you know enough about these systems, try to answer the following questions.

Septic Systems: Do you know...?

Do you know what a septic system is and how it works?

Do you know what causes septic systems to fail?

Do you know what it costs to replace a faulty septic system?

Do you know that a faulty septic system creates a potential health hazard?

Most people know very little about their septic system. This is understandable. In urban and suburban areas there are sewers to carry household waste to municipal wastewater treatment plants. In most rural areas however, septic systems provide the function of both sewers and treatment plants. All household waste is disposed of through the septic system. The proper operation of the septic systems is essential to health, property value, and the ecology.

TEN HELPFUL HINTS:

Hoisting a 1200 gallon septic tank from a truck.Following these hints, and observing the warning signs will help to ensure a long-lasting sewage system, avoid expensive repairs or replacements, and protect everyone's water supply.

1. Have the septic tank pumped out every two to three years. This will remove the accumulated sludge and scum which would other wise reach the tile field and cause blockage resulting in a malfunctioning sewage system and costly repairs. This is the single most effective means of ensuring a long-lasting sewage system.

2. It is always wise to practice water conservation.

3. Use soaps and detergents which are low in phosphates. Most automatic dishwashing detergents contain high concentrations of phosphates.

4. Do not flush hazardous chemicals such as paints, varnish, thinners, waste oil, pesticides, photographic solutions, etc.

5. Do not flush coffee grinds, dental floss, disposable diapers, kitty litter, sanitary napkins, tampons, cigarette butts, condoms, fat, grease or oil, paper towels, etc.

6. Commercial septic tank additives are not necessary and not recommended.

7. Do not allow vehicles including snow machines and ATV?s to park on or drive over your sewage system.

8. Divert roof drains, surface water, sump pumps and house footing drains away from the sewage system.

9. Sewage systems should have a good cover of grass, ventilation and sunlight. Trees and shrubs should not be planted over sewage systems. However, trees and shrubs planted between your system and a water course would be beneficial.

10. Be alert to these warning signs:

* Sewage surfacing over the tile field

* Sewage back-up in the house

* Mushy ground or greener grass

* Slow draining toilet or other drains

* Sewage odors

THE INSIDE STORYLowering a tank into place

Waste is piped out of the house into the first chamber of a concrete box called a septic tank.

Organic solid material floats to the surface and forms a layer of what is commonly called scum. Bacteria in the septic tank biologically convert this material into liquid.

Inorganic or inert solid materials and the by-products of bacterial digestion sink to the bottom of the tank and form a layer commonly called sludge.

Only fairly clear water should exist between the scum and sludge layers. This water fills the second chamber of the tank where it becomes even more clear. It is this clear water - and only this clear water - that should be allowed to over flow from the tank into the drainage tiles in the absorption area, commonly called the field or the bed or sometimes leaching field.

Solid material overflowing into the soil absorption area should be avoided at all costs. It is this solids overflow which clogs soil pores and causes septic systems to fail.

Two main factors cause solid materials to build up and overflow: Bacterial deficiency and lack of sludge removal.

Septic tank in place, ready to be connected to the house and the tile bed. Bacteria must be present in the septic tank to digest the organic solids. Normal household waste provides enough bacteria to digest the solids, unless any harm is done to the bacteria. Bacteria are very sensitive to environmental changes. Many home-care products used in most homes today will destroy bacteria. Check the labels of these products to see if they are Septic Safe or Safe for use in septic systems.

A Pretty Good Rule: Shock the pool, not the septic system!

For more in-depth information about septic systems, their care and maintenance, including diagrams and illustrations - visit Homes A-Z in the Library.

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Laying Roof Slates

The size of the main slate is determined by, the design and slope of the roof and the position of the battens to which the slates are nailed. On every roof, however, two other sizes are used. The slates along the eaves and at the ridge are the same width as those used on the main part of the roof, but they are shorter. A third type of slate, called a tile-and-a-half is half as wide again as the main slates and is used at the end of every alternate row.

Some roofs have a narrow slate, called a creasing or verge slate at the end of each course on a gable end. It is laid underneath the main slates and tilts the edge of the roof upwards to stop rainwater running off the end of the roof and down the end wall. The top course and the eaves course of slates are always held with two nails along their top edge. The main slates may be fixed in the same way or they may be nailed halfway down. If a slate roof requires repair, the new slates must be fixed in the way originally used. Check all battens before starting to lay new slates or secure old ones. Cut away any rotten pieces and replace where necessary.

Slates vary in shape, size and thickness. When new ones are fitted to replace old ones they must be the same as the existing slates to ensure that the roof remains watertight. If the exact size required is not available, buy the nearest larger size and trim it to size. Slates are also available in different colours, and can be bought singly or in bulk from a variety of builder warehouses.

A cheaper alternative, however, for repairs to the roof of a old house is to buy second hand slates from a builders yard or from a site where property is being demolished. They are usually quite a bit cheaper than new slate tiles, but they have some disadvantages. For example, as slates age they flake and powder on the surface, especially near the nail holes; hairline cracks ? which can be difficult to detect develop along the grain.

Roof slates are very brittle: if they are handled roughly they break easily. Always hold them along their longer sides and tip them from the ground before lifting. Do not try to lift them flat off a pile. When carrying several slates at a time, wear canvas gloves and hold them on edge under one arm. If they are carried flat in a pile, they are likely to break.

Slates can be cut to any size or shape. Mark the size needed with a nail or trowel and hold the slate on a board. Make sure that the piece to be cut off is over the edge of the board. Chop with that part of the trowel nearest the handle. Make the nail holes in new slates before taking them to the roof. Find out which method of fixing is used and lay each slate, bevelled edge downwards, on the flat board. Make holes with a hammer and nail or wheel-brace and bit.

As a house ages, the roof slates may crack or break; or the nails securing them may corrode, and movement in the structure, or high wind, make the slates shear. Replacement roof slates cannot be nailed in place, because their fixing points are covered by the row above. They can, however, be secured with strips of lead. An indispensable tool for removing roof slates is a ripper.

http://www.turtleherbestate.co.za where you will find Global solutions and ideas. Sign in and touch the untapped South African market, its big and still growing!

Conservatory Climate Control Facts

In these days of very hot summer days the issue of climate control for your conservatory is too often overlooked when making a purchasing decision, resulting in an extension to your living space that cannot be used all year round. In our quest to find a bargain price conservatory we are often driven by price alone rather than studying the benefits that the purchase will bring us. If you don't consider the important issue of climate control at the planning stage you could find that your new conservatory is uncomfortable to sit in on a hot summer's day because the temperature inside could easily exceed 100 degrees.

If you want your new conservatory to act as a year round extension to your home it is very important to consider how the climate will be controlled inside the conservatory ensuring that you will be able to use it throughout the year. This is especially important if your conservatory is south facing as it will endure long hours of constant direct sunlight during the summer. Choose the wrong type of conservatory roof glazing and it could limit it's use during the most important months of the year.

Polycarbonate roof glazing is still the major choice for most purchasers mainly because of the considerable savings in cost when compared to glass and recent innovations such as Heatguard polycarbonate have improved the efficiency of polycarbonate to reduce solar gain from the sun.

Heatguard has a reflective coating on the external surface to help prevent direct sunlight penetration and an opal finish internally. It allows light to enter the roof but deflects solar radiation by up to 50% compared to other polycarbonates.

With most polycarbonate conservatory roofs now using 35mm thick material noise and insulation benefits have improved over previous thinner material but if your property suffers from heavy traffic noise or you want to enjoy your conservatory when it's raining, polycarbonate roof glazing is not recommended.

A glass roof for your new conservatory will reduce noise levels by as much as 100% over polycarbonate and depending on the specification of the sealed units, will substantially improve insulation values.

If your budget will stretch to a glass conservatory roof then you should also consider the latest innovation, a solar control glass roof. Specifically designed to provide the optimum roof glazing solution for conservatories, solar control glass is generally supplied with a blue tint and is also available with self cleaning or easy clean coatings to the external surface. The unique blue colour also helps keep the internal temperature of the conservatory cooler by reflecting solar radiation by as much as 72% whilst still maintaining excellent light transmittance.

Adding opening roof vents will also help ensure a free flow of air to the conservatory roof space helping to reduce any heat build-up. Roof vents are available in manual, electric remote control or automatic rain sensor versions.

At ground level, consider installing an air conditioning unit for the ultimate climate control option. There are many versions to choose from including dwarf wall models that can be built in as you construct your conservatory base. Normally operated by a remote control handset, the latest models are very quiet and also provide background heating for the colder months of the year.

All of these options of course will ultimately add costs to your new conservatory and you will need to consider which are the most important and relevant to your conservatory style and location.

Whether you are considering a self build conservatory or a fully installed one, before making such an important buying decision, think carefully about what your conservatory is likely to be used for and if, like most people, you want to use it throughout the year then make sure you consider how the climate will be controlled before buying.

Unfortunately, not all conservatory suppliers will remind you of these points and today's cheap conservatory bargain could turn into tomorrow's hot house as soon as the sun comes out.

This article written by Tony Wiggins who is a director of Trade Conservatories 2 U Ltd leading UK suppliers of self build conservatories. Visit Buy Conservatories Online for detailed information and resources on all aspects of DIY and self build conservatories. You may reproduce this article providing you display the above links.

Hanging Drywall

Also called wallboard, gyproc, or plasterboard, it is used to cover interior walls and ceilings, and sometimes as an underlay for ceramic tiles. Composed of gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) sandwiched between two layers of kraft paper, it has a fire rating of approx. 30 minutes, and offers reasonable soundproofing, especially when installed in two layers.

Hanging drywall can be fairly heavy work, but not overly difficult to master. It ranges from 1/4 to 5/8 in thickness, with 1/2 being the most common in residential work. The sheets are normally 4 feet wide and 8, 10 or 12 feet long, conforming to standard measuring increments, such as framing studs placed at 16 or 24 inch intervals.

Standard drywall sheets have tapered long edges and the shorts ends are squared off. One face is rough, and one face is smooth, for painting and papering. Water resistant drywall also has tapered edges, and is used for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Use cement-based backer board under tub surrounds or ceramics, in tub and shower areas. Some drywall comes pre-finished in different textures, colors and patterns, and some are vinyl-coated.

Wallboard (drywall) sheathing has tongue and groove edges, and is used under exterior claddings, including masonry to provide water and wind protection.

Wallboard sheathing and water-resistant drywall will both sag if used on ceilings - use standard drywall on ceilings, and cover with alkyd primer to water-proof the surface.

Drywall must be carefully measured and cut, before fastening to wood or metal studs, preferably with special drywall screws applied with a drywall gun or a drill, fixed with a drywall dimpler to properly counter-sink the screws. Use Type W screws for fastening to wood studs, Type G for fastening one sheet to another, and Type S for fastening sheets to metal studs. The joints are finished with joint compound (mud) and tape (paper or fibre mesh). Outside corners are covered with a metal corner (drywall bead). A T-square and utility knife are used for cutting, and a drywall knife (a smooth, broad spreader) is used for applying the compound.

To estimate quantities, add up the square footage to be covered, and divide by the number of square feet in a sheet (eg. 32 for a 4X8 sheet). One pound of nails or 1/2 pound of screws will fasten 200 square feet of drywall. Have a friend help you with the heavy sheets, especially when hanging a ceiling!

Drywall is easiest to install and finish if you hang it sideways, although if your ceiling is higher than 8'1 you might be tempted to hang the sheets vertically.

CAUTION

If hanging sheets vertically, you will be screwing very close to the tapered edge, and if the framing is not perfect, your vertical joints might be weak, or not line up at all!

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

The Home Reference Book
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Make Your Own Citronella Candles

Need a cost effective way to get rid of mosquitoes? Try making your own citronella candles and eliminate mosquitoes while providing a romantic, outdoor setting. Making citronella candles is easy and can cost as little as $0.25 per candle. Follow this step-by-step guide and make your own candles at home in less than 10 minutes:

Materials Needed:

Wax - Any form of all-purpose wax will do. This can be found in the canning section of the grocery store or in a craft or hardware store.

Citronella - You will need citronella oil for the candle to be effective against mosquitoes.

Mold - This is the container which you will be pouring the hot wax into. The container is your choice, if you want to get fancy you can but a recycled can or glass will also do.

Container for Melting Wax - Nothing specific, a saucepan filled with water or a coffee tin will do.

Wick - Your candle will not work without a wick. You can purchase wicks at any craft store or you can choose to do it yourself by dipping a string or cord into hot wax.

Thermometer - Any form of thermometer will do.

Releaser - Any form of cooking oil or silicone spray will do, as long as it does not have a petroleum base as it may release toxic fumes while burning.

Wooden Spoon - This will be used for stirring the wax.

Wick Cutter - A knife or a pair of scissors will do.

Directions:

Make the Wick - Soak a piece of heavy string or cord into wax and set to dry on a sheet of wax paper. You can also buy candle wicks instead of making them.

Heat the Wax - Heat your container to approximately 140 degrees and place unmelted wax into it.

Add Citronella - As the wax is melting add 1-2 drops of citronella.

Releaser - As the wax is melting; spray your releaser into your mold.

Stir - Stir the melting wax softly with your wooden spoon.

Pour - Pour the wax into the mold and remember not to fill it to the top. Leave about one inch at the top of the mold.

Wicks - Place the wicks into the melting wax. Hold wick in place either using your hand or tie it to a pencil in order to ensure the wick stays upright and does not fall over.

Set to dry. Making citronella candles is as easy as 1-2-3! Be truly unique and buy terra-cotta pots, paint them and use them as one-of-a-kind candle holders!

Cassie Morgan is an avid candle fan who loves making candles in her spare time. Due to her expertise, she also does freelance writing for sites like Candles and Candle Making. The above candle is one of her favorites as it also helps fend off mosquitoes in the summer.

Making Your Own Bird Feeder

There is estimated to be over 100 billion individual wild birds on earth, and each one needs to eat certain amounts of food on a daily basis in order to survive. That?s where we come in! Birdfeeders are fun to make and are essential in order for birds to live. Bird houses can be made out of practically anything and are usually hung in different locations around your yard for birds to enjoy. Purchasing a bird feeder is another option, however this can be expensive and both methods serve practically the same purpose.

The following is a fun and easy way for children (or adults) to make a bird feeder:

What You Will Need:

?An empty milk or juice carton (any size will do)

?String (must be strong)

?Scissors

?Stapler

?Hole punch

?2 small sticks or wooden rods

?Bird seed

?Markers, paint or anything which can be used to decorate the carton. Ensure the paint is water based not to hurt your feathered friends and try not to use anything that can be potentially dangerous to swallow.

Directions:

1.Wash and dry the carton thoroughly.

2.Decorate your carton however you would like.

3.Using your scissors cut a square in each side of the carton (a square big enough to fit at least the head of a bird).

4.Using your hole punch (or your scissors) make a small hole below each square.

5.Push your sticks or rods through the holes from one side of the carton to the other (the sticks will form a ?t?).

6.Fill the bottom of your carton with bird seed.

7.Punch a hole (or two if you like) in the top of your carton.

8.Hang your finished feeder to a tree branch with string.

Although these bird feeders will not last forever (or even close), they are a fun, inexpensive way for children to learn about birds and the importance of caring for our wildlife.

Greg Pilson is an avid bird watcher who also dabbles in freelance photography of his favorite subjects. When he?s not working full time in the engineering industry, he writes as a freelance writer for http://www.birdfeedersdirect.com ? a site that offers information about bird feeders, bird houses and more.

Precut Sauna Kits Choices to Consider

If you have ever enjoyed taking a sauna bath at your local health club, gym or spa and would like a home sauna for your own private use, you should consider the many merits of a pre-cut sauna kit. Pre-cut sauna kits are perfect for people who appreciate the pleasures and benefits of sauna bathing but don?t want to go to the trouble or expense of having a sauna professionally constructed and installed for them.

Even if you only have a few tools and don?t think of yourself as a particularly gifted carpenter or handyman, you should have little if any difficulty building your own indoor or outdoor sauna using a pre-cut sauna kit. And, if you know of another sauna bath enthusiast who would be willing to assist you with the project, assembling your do-it-yourself or DIY sauna kit, as a pre-cut sauna kit is sometimes called, should be that much easier.

The first step in purchasing a pre-cut sauna kit is to decide whether you want an indoor sauna or an outdoor sauna. Depending on the space they have available on their property, some folks buy sauna kits to enhance their backyards. A backyard sauna can serve equally well as a private sanctuary and a gathering place for family members, friends or neighbors. No matter where it?s located, how a home sauna is utilized is ultimately up to its owner, but there?s never just one way and one way only to enjoy a sauna.

Many indoor sauna kits have been assembled in basements, bathrooms, bedrooms and spare rooms. When space permits, indoor saunas can truly energize or revitalize the home life of an individual or family. More time in the sauna can mean less time sitting mindlessly in front of the computer or television or engaging in other unproductive behaviors. Using an indoor sauna is a great method of caring for your own health and well-being while relaxing in the familiar surroundings of home.

Once you decide whether you want a sauna kit for an indoor or outdoor sauna, then you must make other choices. Is your sauna going to be a traditional dry Finnish sauna or a far infrared sauna? Will your sauna heater be electric, gas, wood-fired, or infrared? How big do you want your sauna to be? What sauna features are most important to you?

To help you answer these and other questions, it is vital that you select a fully qualified sauna kit provider. Some sauna kit retailers are strictly dealers, while some are sauna manufacturers as well. If the quality of your pre-cut sauna kit materials is a priority to you, you would be wise to focus on sauna manufacturers, as they have greater control of the products they offer their customers.

Also, try to find a company that specializes in home saunas and sauna kits; a sauna specialist should be far more knowledgeable about pre-cut saunas than someone who sells saunas, hot tubs, swimming pools, gazebos, lawn furniture, and various other home improvement products. When buying a sauna or sauna kit, you deserve the security of knowing that the sauna supplier you have selected is a true sauna expert who can answer all your questions.

Always be attentive to the quality of the customer service you receive from your sauna supplier. How helpful, patient or pushy are the salespeople? How willing are they to assist you with your selection? What guarantees does the company provide? How clear and comprehensive are the instructions they include with their sauna kits? Do they have any customer testimonials on their website or in their brochures? What are their prices and policies for delivery?

Shopping for a pre-cut sauna kit can be challenging at times, but your efforts will be rewarded if you stay focused on making the right choices for your home, budget, lifestyle, and personal needs and preferences. If you shop for your do-it-yourself sauna kit responsibly, the joy and pride you feel in your new home sauna once it is assembled will be immensely satisfying.

Pertti Olavi Jalasjaa is the Finnish-born author of ?The Art of Sauna Building,? an acclaimed reference book on sauna construction. He is also the general manager of Great Saunas, which has been manufacturing and selling high-quality saunas and sauna kits to sauna enthusiasts around the world since 1974. Visit Great Saunas online at http://www.greatsaunas.com.

Global Warming: Home Improvement Can Save the Planet and £200 a Year in Bills

I recently read a news report which at first glance seemed like a misprint. The article stated that in the UK ?1 out of every ?3 spent on heating is currently being wasted in 10.3 million homes because they are not energy efficient. At first I couldn?t believe what I was reading - not only is this a massive waste of money, it also spells disaster for the environment. All from a nation that is set on leading the world in tackling climate change. People are literally pouring money down the drain, whilst accelerating our planet towards disaster.

The energy that we take for granted in our homes comes largely from burning fossil fuels. In case you didn?t know, this process creates CO2, which is being released into our skies and is causing a dangerous green house effect. It has been said by experts that global warming is a far greater threat than international terrorism. The devastating consequences include rising sea levels, increased occurrences of extreme weather events, and generally the destruction of millions of species that inhabit planet earth.

Draught-Proofing

In a typical home, 20% of all heat loss is because of draughts. To test your home just hold your hand up your door and window frames to feel for air coming through.

Dealing with exterior doors and windows is an inexpensive and easy way to start saving heating energy. Simply fit brushes, foam strips, and rubber blades to fill the gaps that cause unwanted draughts. You can get these draft excluders at any DIY store or builders? merchants. If you seal the gaps around floor boards and skirting boards, you can expect to save even more money. The amount of money that you will need to invest is around ?50-?100, but this will save you around ?20 a year because your heating bills will be lower. After 3-5 years it will have paid for itself and you will actually start saving money.

Draught Proofing vs. Ventilation

A balance has to be struck between ventilation and draught proofing. A completely air tight house will become stuffy and can cause bad, stale smells. Regulations for new houses require that the half the air in the house be replaced with fresh air once every hour.

If you heat rooms individually, you will want to install draught excluders to interior doors as well. Heating only the rooms that you need is a great way of saving energy in the winter months, especially for larger houses. If you have a gas fire in your home you should be very careful not to limit the amount of ventilation that the fire needs to operate safely when burning. If there is not a good supply of oxygen to a gas fire it will affect the combustion, giving off dangerous carbon monoxide.

Open fire places allow a lot of cold air into houses. Flaps can be installed to lessen the problem, but to totally irradiate it you will need to use a central heating system instead.

Tim Brennan is the author of the PiciFix.com website. Continue reading this guide by claiming your FREE eBook right now. Learn how you can save over ?200 every year in lower heating bills: http://www.picifix.com/index5.html